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You are talking about the rubber window glass run right?
Yes you can but it's tricky.
What I did was this.
1: Roll the window all the way down
2: Remove the old Run
3: Place the new run in the top of the window and down one of the sides as far as you can. untill the window prevents going further.
4: Roll the window up slowly. This is the tricky bit. The run will be squashed a bit by the window glass but dont worry it will pop right back into shape. Only do one side at a time. Roll up the window until the one side of the glass is now seated into the run.
5: Finish inserting the run all the way to the bottom of the channel.
Repeat step 3 to 5 for the other side.
6: Roll the window all the way up tight to seat the new rubber glass run.
Some tips:
Buy a can of silicone lubricant, it will make instalation easier, and also make your window roll up and down easier. Use anythime you feel a change of resistance. Will help keep your new seals in a newer condition longer too.
After the initial seating process, Don't roll the windows up as tight as you can get them. Only go up as tight as to prevent air or water leaking into the cab from the window. Will make the new rubber last longer.
81-F-150-Explorer:
Thank you for the step-by-step instruction on replacing the window seals; I was searching for postings on how to do this also. Using the silicone was SO much better than my first attempt with soapy water.
Hello:
I've ordered my new window run and have silicone spray for my '81 F-100. Will I need to trim any of the run, or will the entire piece fit into place?
The entire piece will fit, you should not have the need to trim any of it.
Where should the two "slightly notched out" areas fit in?
And, it looks like the window run will extend far down inside the door. How will I get it down in there properly. Will I have to remove the inside door panel?
Where should the two "slightly notched out" areas fit in?
I would need a picture...
Quote:
And, it looks like the window run will extend far down inside the door. How will I get it down in there properly. Will I have to remove the inside door panel?
Thank-you.
Yes, you will need to remove the panel to reach in through the inspection hole in the door.
Yes, you will need to remove the panel to reach in through the inspection hole in the door.
Since digging out the old rubber, I think the thinner "notched out" area goes in the sharper right angle turn at the rear top of the door glass. And the thicker area goes in the front, more rounded turn, top of the door glass.
I've got the old rubber out, ready to install using your method tomorrow.
I used slightly diluted ,with water, dish detergent and the trackslid right into place. Slicone or other lube may not dry out and you may end up with a track that slides when you lower or raise the window. The dish detergent dried and I have never had a problem.
I got my door glass run installed. Thanks to you all for helping me.
Note to anyone that might read this in the future. If there is any old rubber left in the channel the new run won't seat. This can be just a center part of the old run. Sometimes the edges break away leaving a middle section of old, compressed rubber. The old rubber can feel about as hard, to your finger, as the metal channel. If you 'chisel' it out, with a screw driver or whatever, you might get it to slide along and out of the channel in long sections.
I used slightly diluted ,with water, dish detergent and the trackslid right into place. Slicone or other lube may not dry out and you may end up with a track that slides when you lower or raise the window. The dish detergent dried and I have never had a problem.
I think you would be using too much silicone if it causes that problem.
I usually spray all the rubber with silicone lubricant once every 6 months or so. It's a rubber preserver. With the window run seals, I spray the lubricant inside the notch where the window rides. Makes the windows operate very free and like new.
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Door Glass Run Replacement
