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Time for O2 Sensors

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Old 02-14-2014, 01:30 PM
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Time for O2 Sensors

I recently had to go get the Ex inspected.

In NJ, they stopped any semblance of making safety inspections, and now only inspect the emissions. (probably so the state can still keep getting Fed funds for clean air. They no longer care if your vehicle has lights, brakes, or windows, LOL)

The Ex failed for CO at idle. My old scanner, after sitting and babying it for a afternoon, finally showed the issue. O2S12 was reading a static .78 volts. I ordered all new NTK sensors from Rock Auto today. My V10 has California emissions, so it needed 3 of them. Figure it is better to replace them all at once as a set and be done with it.

Anyway, I started thinking about how much sludge was probably in the engine and started to search around for flushes and the like. I figured maybe there was a way to check it out. Off to the garage and got the inspection camera that my wife thoughtfully bought for Christmas a year ago, and it got shoved down the Oil fill. I was able to work it pretty far down the side of the engine and I'll be danged if it was totally free of all sludge. No sign of even varnish. Lucky me!

Not too shabby for a engine with 91 K on it. Full synthetic works!
 

Last edited by housedad; 02-14-2014 at 09:08 PM. Reason: .78 instead of 7.8 typo
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Old 02-14-2014, 08:20 PM
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So what would be a normal voltage reading for a O2 than? We don't have inspections, I only have two O2s.....
 
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Old 02-14-2014, 08:56 PM
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The O2 sensor has a range of 0 to 1 volt. It should swing from 0 to 1 (or thereabouts) and back to 0 constantly.
 
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Old 02-14-2014, 09:06 PM
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The front and rear O2 sensor voltages should be bouncing back and forth somewhere between 0 and 1 volt. The rate that they switch should be faster on the front ones compared to the rear (after cat) sensors. That is, if you have rear ones. Most gas Excursions do not have rear O2 sensors.

Oil vapors are sucked up by the PVC and burned in the cylinders. As part of the process, Phosphorus and other junk is released that end up coating and plating the O2 sensors and the Cat plates. This makes the sensors go bad and the converter to stop doing it's job. The Sensors are more susceptible to this, so they go bad much sooner. The voltage range that they switch back and forth as they read the O2 levels gets smaller and smaller until they are pretty much stuck at a constant voltage.

Too rich of a mixture can cause the cat to overheat and melt. This can happen from a bad TPS sensor, bad front O2 sensors, misfires, or a bad MAF sensor, among other things.

Most Ex's have a OBDI emissions system. It is determined by the GVWR of the vehicle. Over 8500 lbs and the OBDII emissions are not required by the Feds.

However, California has to always be different, and they required all vehicles to be OBDII compliant. One of the things to be OBDII compliant is to monitor when the Catalytic converter wears out. That is the sole reason for the after cat rear sensor. To compare the input to output O2 to determine if the cat is bad.

Your 2003, unless it is California compliant, will have the OBDI emissions system. It uses the IBDII connector, talks with scanners on the OBDII protocols, but only has OBDI sensors (PIDS).

California emissions vehicles are fully OBDII compliant in all respects. OBDII is nice in some ways, but there are more sensors and cost to repair when they go bad.
 
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Old 02-15-2014, 01:22 AM
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I had to change my sensors before as well. It should help the overall fuel consumption at the same time.
 
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