Wow...REAL Air Conditioning!!

[dzzavid]

For future reference NAPA has the same part NAPA PN: 6601294

[powerstrokr01]

need help where do you tap into the red line at? before the junction or after?

[sandlapper]

I did the white line. Don't think it would matter much as to what side. If you are looking at that white plug with all the lines going in I tied in closest to the actuator.

[dzzavid]

Originally Posted by sandlapper

I did the white line. Don't think it would matter much as to what side. If you are looking at that white plug with all the lines going in I tied in closest to the actuator.

off topic, but sandlapper, what kind of mileage do you get on the highway with you gear vendor?

[sandlapper]

Best I have gotten is 18.5 mpg. I bought it more for pulling than anything. It is great in 3 over through hilly even mountainous areas. I don't run it much with the 110 hp program in and it seems as though it gets better with that. I don't run because I am pulling most of the time. Wish I had gotten a flip chip now.

[dzzavid]

With this mod, do we need to bleed the coolant system at all after doing it? i plan on tackling this project today along with the CC mod

[ernesteugene]

I just installed a manual valve here, and first I removed the coolant cap to relieve any residual pressure, and I was able to cut the hose and install the valve without the patient losing more than a few drops of green blood!

[nlemerise]

Originally Posted by dzzavid

With this mod, do we need to bleed the coolant system at all after doing it? i plan on tackling this project today along with the CC mod

Nope, no bleeding necessary...

[dzzavid]

great thanks for the help

[tamte65]

Originally Posted by dzzavid

great thanks for the help

Yep, and don't run the engine too hot before you cut the tubes.
The Green blood gets hot too, and creates some pressure into the system. The cooler the engine, the better for you to work inside the "engine room".

[h2guy]

Guys, I'm not downplaying any of these mods or trying to take sales away from a sponsor, but........

I remember a manual knob on the dash that opened/closed the hot water line to the heater core but can't remember which car this was on. It allowed you to regulate the amount of hot water so as to control the temps in the cabin.

It seems like there ought to be a cable operated on/off water valve out there that can be tied into the hot supply line to our heater cores. (Like a choke cable/knob)

I don't know how to research it to find what I remember but I gotta believe its out there someplace.

Would beat having to lift the hood to turn the valve on/off all the time.

[empiretc]

Originally Posted by h2guy

Would beat having to lift the hood to turn the valve on/off all the time.

That is why people who had the manual valve are buying the one from dieselsite. It is vaccuum controlled.

[h2guy]

Originally Posted by empiretc

That is why people who had the manual valve are buying the one from dieselsite. It is vaccuum controlled.

Yeah, I know. I've gone thru this whole thread, but like some others, don't care for introducing another point for a vacuum leak.

With me, its always the KISS principle.

[empiretc]

I hear that. I had the manual valve for a long while, but popping the hood when its really cold out is a pain. Not to mention, the valve wouldn't always turn so easy.

One thing I am interested in, is the fact that in 2002 (i think) and on they, ford starting putting this vacuum valves in. I wonder what exactly it would take to adapt an OEM one to the older trucks.

[steve81]

Mine blows ice cold even in 100 degree weather. I bought my '02 used and have checked to see if the mod had been done, but I didn't see anything so I'm assuming Ford had fixed the problem in '02? Even on really hot days, I rarely turn the A/C fan past the second mark.