the kit runs just as it would had it been installed at the factory. I am using a stock ac/heater box now. This is where I am abit confused, I did the install 6 months ago and I dont remember if the air is forced to go through the heater core like it is in all the trucks you guys are talking about here.

 

I put some vise grip needle nose pliers on my when it gets really hot.

 

That's funny. Eventually installed the ranger valve. $12 is totally worth the convenience.

 

I now that this topic and thread have been beaten to death but......

Just to play devil's advocate (and I don't claim to know the thermodynamic properties of all of the cooling system), if you shut off the water/coolant passage from the engine to the heater core in order to see better A/C temps, doesn't that effectively raise the engine temp in one part of the engine since you are trapping hot water in that particular area?

 

It doesn't shut it off it just bypasses it to the other heater hose

 

Is this just on certain years? I thought my 03 had a valve stock already when I was moving the lines around for injector work.

See it in this pic. There is a vacuum line that goes to it, I just have it unhooked and out of the way.

 

the Ex's had the valve already. It's just more expensive than the ranger valve. same theory though.

Barney

 

The heater core is similar to the coolant filter kits you can add, they're small bypass systems. In theory, you'll loose a tiny amount of "engine cooling" by blocking it off, but nothing you'd notice. Its not gonna keep any hot coolant from making its way to the radiator. In fact, it'd take a more direct route with it closed.

 

just did the ranger valve and tied into the white vacuum line behind the glove box....works like a charm....been trying to find a decent 3 way ball valve but couldnt so i went this route....nice and clean install....took about 20 minutes and 32 bucks......

 

DON'T HAVE TIME TODAY TO GO THROUGH ALL THE POSTS; INEED TO KNOW WHICH HEATER HOSE IS THE SUPPLY LINE TO THE HEATER BOX SO I CAN INSTALL A VALVE. IS IT THE ONE OFF THE TOP OF THE MOTOR OR THE ONE OFF THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE MOTOR?

 

It doesn't really matter. You stop the flow, you stop the flow.

Pick one....

Pop

 

-Guys, PLEASE don't bash me for resurecting this thread.

I did this mod about 3 years ago on my LATE '99 F350 Dually, I tapped into the RED vacuum line behind the glovebox, this RED line causes the new Ranger valve to close when your controls are on anything on the LEFT side of "off"
Mine has worked perfectly up until last week when I noticed the normal outside (vent) air was actually warm.
I checked the valve, and apparently the diaphram in it has gone bad already.
I think the valve I bought brand new from AutoZoo was all plastic and from a company called "Factory Air"
I am wondering IF a FACTORY FORD valve (for a Ranger) would be any better than the one from "Factory Air"
BTW, I have forgotten, what year Ranger do I need to ask for the valve for??


-Just found THIS:http://www.ebay.com/itm/HEATER-CONTROL-VALVE-Ford-Explorer-Ranger-Aerostar-NEW-/200464464163?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1999%7CModel%3ARanger&hash=item2eac9cf923&vxp=mtr#ht_2599wt_1086
Is this the right valve?? They are saying its a FACTORY FORD valve........

 

If you want a "factory" valve, get one for an Excursion.

The valves we add to our trucks came from the factory on the EXs.

Pop

 

Marv,

Do you or anyone else know the part number of the Excursion Heater control valve from Ford that works best on our trucks? I looked on Ford's parts website and it looks like at least 4 different part numbers for different Excursion applications.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,
Drake

 

Supercab, I'm glad you brought this up! I've been having some issues with my A/C lately and this could be something to check out. I did this a long time ago and forgot about it.