Which hose should the valve go in? Which one is the in let hose to the heater core?
C'mon now. I was thinking two valves. Both should be before the firewall if you're going to keep the heat out. Just one will allow transfer of heat more readily through either the supply or return. That's my .02. I was even considering a seteup that would just recirculate it back through the hoses without ever getting into the air box/heater core.
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Silver truck with a hairdryer and sticks. A lot of other less expensive chit too which adds up to expensive.
Last edited by Tenn01PSD350; 07-29-2006 at 10:36 PM.
C'mon now. I was thinking two valves. Both should be before the firewall if you're going to keep the heat out. Just one will allow transfer of heat more readily through either the supply or return. That's my .02. I was even considering a seteup that would just recirculate it back through the hoses without ever getting into the air box/heater core.
Look at the pictures I posted earlier...the valve DOES block both hoses AND recirculates back to the engine block.
I used the same valve as posted in nlemerise parts list. All is hooked up and looking good. Have drove any where though since I put it in so I don't really know if it will make the A/C any cooler or not yet.
used hydrolic quick connects on mine . put them in opposite of one another on inlet and outlet summer time just a hot water loop,winter time nice warm heat.this requires a little more work but no in cab water or vacume leaks
I am very interested in this..............I have a 2000 crew cab and it doesn't do a very good job of cooling the whole cab,........Think I'll try the cut-off valve first. Do I just find the hot water inlet and install a shut-off????????? Start it up,let it run, turn to heat, and see which one warms up first? That should be my inlet hose ,.right?
I wondered why the vent never lets in cool air. It's usless. Always warm air. I might try something like this just to be able to use the vent more often.
I just took the $2 manual valve out that I installed some time back. I replaced it with the one from dieselsite. It works very well. The only reason I did it, is cuz this time of year you need the heater in the morning and the air-con by noon.
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Looks great. I also like the idea of not losing all thermostat type of control with the originally proposed hookup in this thread. Sounds like a simpler install with maximum flexibility. Being in Birmingham, I don't really need toe AC right now, so I'll probably wait until about March/April to do this mod.
This "mod" is standard equipment on Excursions. I bought my vacuum-operated coolant valve from Bob Riley, but you "COULD" (but don't!) even get it at your Ford stealership.
That, combined with shimming my compressor clutch properly, completely restored my A/C system to "MAX" happiness!
I shudder to think what it would have cost if I had taken it to the "Factory-trained Ford technicians". Easily hundreds, maybe even thousands. Whew! I dodged another bullet with a Ford logo on it.
Again, the "Supporter" money you spend on joining FTE is the best investment you can make unless you're married to the governor of Arkansas.
OK, that was a cheap shot.... With a big grin, I'll take full responsibility for it.
Pop
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2000 F350 Lariat 7.3,A/T,CC,LB,4X4,SRW, CCV, Sonnax/springs, Dahl, spin-on trans filter, coolant filter, 6637 & cover, bypass lube oil filter, HPX. Email SpringerPop
GREAT INFO!!! There's alot of summer days around here that the vent would be good enough if it didn't blow hot air all the time. I can't wait to leave that fuel guzzling A/C off this summer. Best $15 bucks I ever spent thanks.
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used hydrolic quick connects on mine . put them in opposite of one another on inlet and outlet summer time just a hot water loop,winter time nice warm heat.this requires a little more work but no in cab water or vacume leaks
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