I need to pull my steering wheel to rebuild the steering gear box, and I can't get the danged thing off. I've pulled plenty of wheels and never seen one this difficult to remove. I've used a wheel puller, wheel puller combined with a few smacks with a hammer on the side of the rim (most of the metal is exposed), some WD-40 combined with the above technique, and heating the center with a torch with a wheel puller applying tension ... and it won't budge. Any suggestions?

 

I took a 5 pound sledge to mine and knocked the snot out of it. It finally came off in pieces. It had no holes in it for a wheel puller and I tried WD-40 and PB Blaster and let it sit for days at a time. I finally decided there was no way I was going to save the wheel so I just keep banging away until it gave way. I wish I had some encouraging advise but some of them are just a lot tougher than others...

Vern

 

For some reason that I have yet to figure out there are some people out there that think if they don't bust the socket installing the steering wheel nut then it ain't tight enough!!! I have had to distroy several steering wheels over the years because of this idiot mentality.

 

Well it would be kind of scary to be driving down the highway and have the steering wheel come off in your hands but.... to all you heavy handed people out there who think you have to tighten it just short or wringing it off...

Vern

 

I've fought more than a few tight ones, I've had the best luck by tightening the puller and then hitting it on the end were the socket goes with a big sledge

 

Hiball, your's was a new idea, so I tried it. SWING ... and a miss. All I did was crack the lower end of my steering wheel puller.

Anyone know if I can loosen up and push the steering column tube up high enough to cut the shaft off just above the steering box (I bought a new one as part of the rebuild kit)? It'a always one stuck screw, etc.

 

OOPS!!!! don't think the colmn will go up with the wheel on, sounds like time to get out the hot wrench

 

I used a wheel puller on my 51F1 and my wheel was on so tight I smashed threaded part of the shaft. I did manage to get the threads filed back down enough to get a thread die on it to tighten the wheel back down. Years ago there used to be a split thread die you could put on them tighten it and back it off to restablish the threads but I have never been able to find one these days.

Rod 51F1

 

How about good penetrating oil, tightening up the puller and let it sit over night with the puller on, then come back and a bit more tightening on the puller, a few taps, more oil. then.......you know.

Maybe that'll work.

Mine took a bit of work, but did come off without much work.

I'm guessing the wheel nut was on just right.

It's the big nut behind the wheel I worry about.

 

If I pull the steering columm/pedal access panels out of the floor, and diconnect the gear box, do you think I can pull the untire assembly out throught the cab? Just my luck, I'd need to remove the rear window because it can't be angled enough to get it out the door.

 

tonygray, That's how I got mine out.

 

The first time I pulled my wheel it took A LOT of work, and I ruined my "steering wheel puller." Then I borrowed g'pas harmonic balance puller, and it had the gumption to get it off. They're a lot beefier than steering wheel puller, and will put up with more abuse.

It's a shot.

 

Blue50F-1, now that you mentioned it, I did use my harmonic puller to pull off my steering wheel. Much beefier than your standard wheel puller.

 

I took my steering box and wheel out as one also. There is plenty of room for it all to come out in one piece. I used a heavey puller to pull the wheel off at a later date and I too had to re-work the threads on the column to get the nut back on. I have a Snap-On thread file that worked great for this.

I guess they didn't want the wheels coming off in your hands as to why they are on so tight. On later model vechicles all you need to do is to give them a good tug and they come right off.
I will have to make sure not to get it on to tight so I can get it back off if the wheel needs centering after it is all back together.
Don

 

You can take off the floor plate and remove the entire column and box from the inside.
I've always used the smack the center of the puller method and have added extra oomph by putting my knees behind the wheel and pushing at the same time when needed. Never broke one or had one that didn't yield.