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Wiper/Washer Motor Troubleshooting

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Old 07-14-2006, 08:08 PM
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Wiper/Washer Motor Troubleshooting

Thanks for all the replies on my problem with my wiper motor, here's what I've found:

Blue Wire: hot with ignition on

Black Wire: hot with ignition on

White Wire: hot with ignition on

Red Wire: hot with ignition on

Orange/White Wire: hot with ignition on

....ok, kinda weird? I moved the switch to different positions and it had no effect. I also hooked up a ground to the motor with my test light and it still would not work.

Could both components be screwed, or is that normal operation for the switch?

And for the washer motor (Which, btw is also inoperable, but I didn't have a buddy to push the switch so I could check the wire where it meets the motor):

Green/Black wire: probably ground, cold in both positions

White/Black Wire: cold with ignition on, hot when switch is depressed


Any ideas? At least one of these compenents is in bad shape, but now what? I don't really wanna go out and buy a bunch of new stuff that I can't return, ya know?

Thanks all.

Justin F.
 
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Old 07-14-2006, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by jfarcas
Thanks for all the replies on my problem with my wiper motor, here's what I've found:

Blue Wire: hot with ignition on
That wire should only be hot with the wiper switch on high.

Black Wire: hot with ignition on
That is a ground loop. should only be hot in certain conditions such as wiper motor parking.


White Wire: hot with ignition on
should only be hot when switch is in low or high.

Red Wire: hot with ignition on
That is correct.

Orange/White Wire: hot with ignition on
That is correct.

....ok, kinda weird? I moved the switch to different positions and it had no effect. I also hooked up a ground to the motor with my test light and it still would not work.
With power going through the switch like that your wipers should be going all out. If the switch doesn't change or cut the power in the BLUE or WHITE/ORANGE wires, then you need a new switch, or have wire problems. If the motor isn't going all out with all four of those wires hot then you may need a new motor too, or there is a dead short in the motor itself.

Could both components be screwed, or is that normal operation for the switch?
It does seem likely, or you got a short in the wires from the switch to the motor. Red wire shorting to the other three, etc...


And for the washer motor (Which, btw is also inoperable, but I didn't have a buddy to push the switch so I could check the wire where it meets the motor):

Green/Black wire: probably ground, cold in both positions.
That wire should go to the pump. and be hot when the switch is pressed.

White/Black Wire: cold with ignition on, hot when switch is depressed
That wire should be hot with ignition on, and let power through to Green/black wire when switch depressed to go to pump.

White/black wire goes from fuse panel to wiper switch. Fuse F-11 Backup lamps and windshield wash pump. check that fuse and see if it's burned.

Sounds like you may need a new wiper switch at least.


Sounds like you may need a new motor and pump too.


Any ideas? At least one of these compenents is in bad shape, but now what? I don't really wanna go out and buy a bunch of new stuff that I can't return, ya know?
You need to get yourself a ohmmeter for continuity testing.

Set the ohmeter to 1k and with the plugs removed from the motor and the switch, check the continuity in the blue wire. Put the red lead on one end of the blue wire, and put the black lead on the other end of the blue wire. You should have full continuity. Then move the red lead from the blue wire and place it to the white wire. Leave the black lead of the tester on the blue wire. you should not have continuity (or in other words a power reading) if you do have continuity between the blue and white wires you have crossed wires in the harness.

Check each wire in turn as described below.

1: Red test lead to blue wire. Black test lead to blue wire. CONTINUITY.


2: Red test lead to Red wire. Black test lead to Red wire. CONTINUITY.


3: Red test lead to White/orange wire. Black test lead to white.orange wire. CONTINUITY.


4: Red test lead to Black wire. Black test lead to black wire. CONTINUITY.


5: Red test lead to black wire. Black test lead to blue wire. = NO CONTINUITY.

6: Red test lead to black wire. Black test lead to white/orange wire. = NO CONTINUITY.

7: Red test lead to black wire. Black test lead to Red wire. = NO CONTINUITY.

8: Red test lead to blue wire. Black test lead to white/orange wire. = NO CONTINUITY.

9: Red test lead to blue wire. Black test lead to Red wire. = NO CONTINUITY.

10: Red test lead to Red wire. Black test lead to white/orange wire. = NO CONTINUITY.


If you get continuity through the continuity tester, when you shouldnt as described above you have a wiring problem between the switch and motor.

If everything checks out as it should, you will need to replace the switch and possibly the motor. Replace the switch first however and test again. Just be prepared for buying a new motor too.


Hope this helps.


PS. do not confuse the Orange/white wire (comes from ignition switch to the wiper switch) with the white/orange wire that goes to the motor from the switch.
 

Last edited by 81-F-150-Explorer; 07-14-2006 at 10:10 PM.
  #3  
Old 07-16-2006, 07:01 PM
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You friggin' rock. I'm gonna put your knowledge to good use! Thank you so much, I'll post here Monday night.

JF
 
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Old 07-19-2006, 08:00 AM
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Er...Wednesday morning? Ooopps.


Anywhoo - I got another switch from teh junkyad - no change, all the wires still are hot with the ignition on. Hmmm?

Could I have a short inside the motor that would be causing this? (Of course, the 50 dollar part that nobody stocks is probably what I'm gonna have to buy!)

And as for the fuse - I don't have any fuse in the box for the wipers - is there another one I should look for that it might be governed by?

Thanks!
 
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Old 07-19-2006, 10:29 AM
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The wiper have a circuit breaker ...no fuse.


IIRC, No system that has a HIGH current drain has a fuse.all C.B's

Heater at 30 amp is the largest.
 
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Old 07-19-2006, 12:57 PM
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As mil1ion said. The switch itself is the circut breaker.


The only fuse that goes to the wiper washer switch is the one for the washer pump itself.

The one for backup lamps and washer pump. 15amps.

Why I wanted you to check that fuse. Cause you said that your washer pump failed to work also.


=======


Yes, the motor could be fried inside causing a dead short like that.

It could also be the wiring.

Did you check the continuity like i described before?

You can put another known good motor in there, and if it still doesn't work, then wiring is the problem.
 
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Old 07-19-2006, 01:03 PM
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duplicate post...
 
  #8  
Old 07-20-2006, 04:56 PM
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I was going to check continuity, but installed the other switch first, got frustrated, and took returned the multimeter to get some cash. I decided to save the money to put in for a new wiper motor - they're 50.00!! I'd rather get one I know is good then mess around with used parts and add more variables than already exist.

I thought I had checked all the fuses before and found that they were all ok, but I'll go over that 15 amp washer/back up lamp fuse tomorrow. Right now I'm trying to get the temporary tags worked out so I don't get pulled over!

...and the sky's getting cloudy - I might have to drive in the rain w/out wipers tonight!!

Thanks guys, I'll update asap.

JF
 
  #9  
Old 07-27-2006, 04:19 PM
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So, I've ordered the new wiper motor, it just came in yesterday!

Are there any concerns that I should have on how to test it so that I don't blow it up? I'd have to hook up a ground wire somewhere, I know that...and splice all the wires correctly..anything else from experience?

Thanks!

JF
 
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