I have a 2008 E-350. It now has 450 miles on it. I have had wandering/steering correction while driving since new. HELL, it is still new! IT IS ANNOYING AS HELL!!. I think it actually takes some out of you by the end of the day. I drive in Maryland and the roads are pretty good, except for the city. It is used as a service van (tool boxes, parts, etc.). I have had Ford E-350s in the past with the same issues new from the factory. I had a few Chevy Express 350 and they drove way more smoother and No steering wander. But I have no choice in the matter when it comes to purchasing. I have tried adjusting the tire pressures up and down. 80psi front and 80psi rear has given it the best so far. I am thinking of attempting of making this gearbox adjustment to see if I get any more stability. Any other suggestions I might try before doing this?
All the feedback I have gotten is that new factory boxes are hit and miss if you get a tight one or not, and I think that is evidenced by the fact that mine was awful at 16k miles (as were many others around the forum).
I have a 2005 EB 6.0 4X4 with 315/75/16 tires on factory rims.
I off-road pretty seriously very often. I have a four-inch lift.
I tow (not heavy) a lot, down to loreto with my boat, etc. often.
My box is tight despite the "abuse" after 70K miles.
Big off-road tires like mine (BFG KO AT) plus a lift make slop/wander
more noticable.
I think I just happened to get a good box.
I also installed LandYot radius rods, after already having a rear sway
bar and bilstein shocks.
The radius rods made an enormous difference
in steering response, so much so that the first time I got on the freeway
by my house I turned in too much and had to saw the wheel back
the other way to avoid hitting the inside curb.
My truck seemed to "dart" into the corner, and after the mushy feel
of driving with the back axle not solidly controlled by radius rods, I
had to re-learn my newly responsive steering pattern.
Just another data point for you all...
2005 EXCURSION LIMITED-options (everything) equipped Eddie Bauer edition 4X4 PSD
4" FabTech lift/level, Bilstein $$ mono-gas shocks, Rancho Steering Stabilizer
Silverstar 9005 fog and H13ST headlights + wiring mod to run high beam and fogs together,
BFG 315/75/16 AT KO's on Factory Mags, 22" front and 18" rear rain-x wipers, Auto
-zone aftermarket voltage gauge, LANDYOT Generation II Radius Rods, EBC green brake pads,
Custom 140 amp surge-proof low RPM alternator, matched Duralast 1K CCA batteries
Ford factory hood insulator, Mojave Pin-Striping
As a piece of information...if you look at the top title line of all threads there is a pull down labeled "Thread Tools". Pull it down and you can subscribe to posts you like under that menu item...
Not that your way doesn't work...it is just that you can do it without having to post...either way works so chose your poison.
End of off topic editorial.
Joe.
__________________ 2005 Ex V10 4.30's
Hensley Arrow / Rear Hellwig / Prodigy Brake Controller / RAS / Bilsteins / K&N drop in / SCT X3 Tuner with 5-Star Tunes / Aeroforce Tech OBDII Digital Gauge / Hawk LTS Pads 2007 JayFlight 31BHDS (2 slides 3 women just right! ) 3rd Annual Excursion Diversion / Ford Rally 2010 here: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/88...ml#post7941270
I will definitely try this adjustment. I had an 04 HD 250 with this same problem. I just picked up my 05 Ex LTD and same this. Other than the wander this truck is awesome. Hope it works. thanks
So what do you have to do. I was out looking at mine, and it lookes like the nut is under the allan screw?? You have to loosen the nut, then make the adjustment with the allan, then tighten the nut, test drive and make more adjustments?? Just want to be sure before I start messing with the steering box!
Thanks!!
__________________
2001 V10 Ex 4.30 gears
Upgraded to '05 style tow mirrors, trans temp gauge, 7" indash CD, DVD, TV double din head unit with 2 7" headrest monitors, Backup camera, 8' Western ultra mount pro plow, 32' Coachman travel trailer w/superslide 10,000lbs
Locate the allen head bolt and locknut on top of the steering box (close to the radiator). I believe the locknut is 5/8".
Mark the allen bolt so you can tell the orientation that you started from and then loosen the locknut.
Turn the allen bolt clockwise a quarter turn to tighten the gear mesh. Tighten the locknut back up and take her for a spin.
In reading posts by others who have done this, the allen bolt seems to get turned somewhere between 3/4'rs and 1 & 1/2 times before people are happy with the results.
Be careful, because if you over tighten the steering may be so tight as to get extremely stiff on a tight turn, causing you to veer off course.
Repeat the tighten and test drive until you're satisfied with the performance.
If you over tighten, turn back the allen bolt a quarter turn counter clockwise.
There is a risk of over tightening the box and causing it to wear out prematurely, so I tightened it to the point where the slop was gone, and no further.
Good luck!
Stewart
__________________ The Brotherhood of FTE <~click the link 1999 F150 Lightning: WMS built block, 6lb lower, Monsterbox, Truetrac, CF driveshaft 2002 PSD F250 SC 4x2: 38R, AC codes, MBRP 4", AFE, JWVB, Riffraff HPX, CCV, and boots, ITP OBA, Live Tuned by Jody 2000 PSD Excursion 4x4: John Wood 4R100, F5, MBRP 4", AFE, BDP 1.0, ITP OBA and Pre-Pump mod, V & B code springs, Hellwig rear sway
Locate the allen head bolt and locknut on top of the steering box (close to the radiator). I believe the locknut is 5/8".
Mark the allen bolt so you can tell the orientation that you started from and then loosen the locknut.
Turn the allen bolt clockwise a quarter turn to tighten the gear mesh. Tighten the locknut back up and take her for a spin.
In reading posts by others who have done this, the allen bolt seems to get turned somewhere between 3/4'rs and 1 & 1/2 times before people are happy with the results.
Be careful, because if you over tighten the steering may be so tight as to get extremely stiff on a tight turn, causing you to veer off course.
Repeat the tighten and test drive until you're satisfied with the performance.
If you over tighten, turn back the allen bolt a quarter turn counter clockwise.
There is a risk of over tightening the box and causing it to wear out prematurely, so I tightened it to the point where the slop was gone, and no further.
Good luck!
Stewart
Thanks Stewart. Just wanted to be sure before I went messing things up. I bet this will help with pulling my trailer!!
__________________
2001 V10 Ex 4.30 gears
Upgraded to '05 style tow mirrors, trans temp gauge, 7" indash CD, DVD, TV double din head unit with 2 7" headrest monitors, Backup camera, 8' Western ultra mount pro plow, 32' Coachman travel trailer w/superslide 10,000lbs
__________________ The Brotherhood of FTE <~click the link 1999 F150 Lightning: WMS built block, 6lb lower, Monsterbox, Truetrac, CF driveshaft 2002 PSD F250 SC 4x2: 38R, AC codes, MBRP 4", AFE, JWVB, Riffraff HPX, CCV, and boots, ITP OBA, Live Tuned by Jody 2000 PSD Excursion 4x4: John Wood 4R100, F5, MBRP 4", AFE, BDP 1.0, ITP OBA and Pre-Pump mod, V & B code springs, Hellwig rear sway
had my steering box adjusted friday, took about a full turn of screw to get it just right, wow what a difference, makes for such a nice ride especially towing.
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.