Copy that! That'll save me about 47 bucks. A small amount considering the build but every little bit helps. I have allready worked for that money once, don't want to work for it again. Do you guys have any more input on the equipment that I have in mind for the build? On the long tube headers, what brand(s) will give me the best fit? BBK appearantly only offers a short tube ceramic for my truck, according to Summit. (I called them on the phone to make sure)
Another question, World heads have a square exhaust port, can I use an oval port hedder or do I have to match the square port? I'm having a tough time finding a square port hedder from Summit, then again maybe I don't know what I'm looking at. That's what I thought (baddad), about the brand matching.
The oval port headers are almost always taller than the square port, so it doesn't matter. My Tri-Y's have oval ports and more than cover the square ports on the Canfield Heads on my 331. Now, they are closer in dimensions in width, so I welded all around the outside where the tubes meet the flange on the headers and ported the headers out some to gain a little width there. This isn't a big deal if you have a brother-in-law that has a welding machine though I guess if the primary tubes on my headers were larger, that wouldn't be the case. I'm kinda limited on header selection with my Ranger though.
I plan on using a Ohio-Crank 408 stroker short block (about 1600.00) With factory heads and intake. The heads will be cleaned up install stainless 1 peice exhaust valves and a valve job. Its going in my 97 F-250 HD E40D to hual our 9k pound 5th wheel. I dont plan on it making power over 4k rpm and really dont care. I want all my torque between idle and 3k. It will be awhile before i start the project but i will post dyno results and impressins when its done and tuned.
I noticed that the Performer RPM Air Gap intake does not accomodate an exhaust heated choke. What other options do I have other than running a manual choke? Which I really don't want to do. Also, any recommendations on a distributor, wires, plugs, and coil?
This one recommendation tells me a lot. Why spend almost as much money for roller tipped stock type(ball fulcrum) rockers when for a few dollars more you can see a real gain from a rocker swap by buying full roller rockers? Roller tipped -ball fulcrum rockers are a huge waste. Ever watch a stock rocker cycle when turning the engine by hand? The rockers tip doesn't rub the valve stem, it actually has a curved tip and it rolls across the valve stem tip. Adding roller tips does virtually squat in terms of power gains from frictional loss. For a few dollars more (usually about $50 extra) you can get the real gain that a roller trunion has over a ball-fulcrum in reducing friction. Your recommendations don't make sense. First you put down self ported heads, then say they won't work, when you say that, it sounds as if the engine won't even start. Adding bigger heads only moves the power band up the rpm scale, for a vehicle used for towing, you're not going to need power in the 4000rpm and above range anyway. A less flowing head will still make power with an added stroke, in the lower rpm ranges, because you're not utilizing all the added flow potential aftermarket heads offer down there anyway. I've got a set of self ported E7's on the motor in my 89 Ranger now, and while I've never dynoed it, I can tell you that it doesn't have a screwed up power band, the power it makes is smooth from idle to 6000 rpms. All I've done to these heads is hog out the exhaust ports, blended them down into the bowls, removed nothing from the port floor, all material was taken out of the roof and sides. I also blended the intake bowls, and left the rest of the passage undisturbed other than removing any rough or sharp edges. After the grinding and polishing of the ports, I polished the chambers and removed the sharp edges there. The the seats were finished with a Serdi machine when the shop did the valve job. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to work a set of heads into something a bit better than the factory left them.
I just thought I'd add that I have used the comp cams magnum roller "tipped" rockers with great success.My main objective was to prevent valve stem and guide wear with the roller tips.If there is no friction there as you state why were my old valve stems all chewed up by the factory rocker arms?..There isn't much hp to be had no matter what kind of roller rocker you use whether it's stock of all out race.In my opinion the big benefit is strength and lack of wear,especially with high lift cams and stiff valve springs.
I just thought I'd add that I have used the comp cams magnum roller "tipped" rockers with great success.My main objective was to prevent valve stem and guide wear with the roller tips.If there is no friction there as you state why were my old valve stems all chewed up by the factory rocker arms?..There isn't much hp to be had no matter what kind of roller rocker you use whether it's stock of all out race.In my opinion the big benefit is strength and lack of wear,especially with high lift cams and stiff valve springs.
Now, where did i post that there was no friction between the stock rocker and the valve stem tip? What I said was there was no frictional loss GAIN to be had from roller tips. And If you think there's no gain in the use of needle bearing trunions over ball fulcrums, you've got a lot to learn. I guess everyone that's bought full roller rockers have been had. If you experienced unusual stem and guide wear, you had geometry problems not rocker problems.
MATT16875 i dont know when it will get the stroker. I plan on doing a compression test this weekend. If its good then it will be a fall project if its bad then very soon. If i can get a set of GT-40 heads and intake cheap then i will do it.
Now, where did i post that there was no friction between the stock rocker and the valve stem tip? What I said was there was no frictional loss GAIN to be had from roller tips. And If you think there's no gain in the use of needle bearing trunions over ball fulcrums, you've got a lot to learn. I guess everyone that's bought full roller rockers have been had. If you experienced unusual stem and guide wear, you had geometry problems not rocker problems.
I never said there was no point in having needle bearing trunions as that is the major friction point for sure.I was just saying that the for a guy on a tight budget the roller tipped rockers have a place.They are much stronger than stock and will have a "true' ratio where stockers can vary and flex..I would prefer to run them rather than a "cheap" set of full roller rockers that might spit out a needle bearing and jam your oil pump...If money is no object the full on roller rockers are the way to go...As for my stem and guide wear I'm just referring to a stock ford engine so if it has bad geometry it came that way from ford.
Keep me posted BKB. Even though I will not be doing a stroker at this time, I do see one in my future. I am thinking about getting into some of the local 4x4 truck pulls in the future and kinda want to stay in the small block class. So I'm kinda thinking maybe a 408 when I have the cash. Of course that will probably be basically a complete truck build. Thankfully I have a good buddy where I work who is allready into that stuff to help me out.
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I guess if the primary tubes on my headers were larger, that wouldn't be the case. I'm kinda limited on header selection with my Ranger though.
