Voltage Regulator Problems
#1
Voltage Regulator Problems
My truck was running the original voltage regulator until today. It developed a condition where, in a certain range of RPMs, the generator would cut in and out. The GEN light on the dash would flash and you could hear the "Tikka. Tikka." in the voltage regulator. It would do this at idle, and the ticking/flashing would speed up with the engine RPMs, to a certain point. At higher RPMs it stopped.
I was concerned that this was only charging the battery intermittently. So I went into the basement and pulled out my in-the-box replacement voltage regulator. I got it from someone else but it looks like it's brand new. I put this one in, cleaned up all the contacts, and hooked it up just like the other one. Now the intermittent cutting out is gone ... but it's got a whole new problem. The GEN light is always on. It's very very faint at idle, and as the RPMs increase, it gets brighter. At about 3000 RPM it's at full brightness. Now I think it must not be charging the battery at all.
I still have the old voltage regulator in the basement. If any of you could help me solve either/both of these problems so I have at least one good voltage regulator, I'd be very thankful.
I was concerned that this was only charging the battery intermittently. So I went into the basement and pulled out my in-the-box replacement voltage regulator. I got it from someone else but it looks like it's brand new. I put this one in, cleaned up all the contacts, and hooked it up just like the other one. Now the intermittent cutting out is gone ... but it's got a whole new problem. The GEN light is always on. It's very very faint at idle, and as the RPMs increase, it gets brighter. At about 3000 RPM it's at full brightness. Now I think it must not be charging the battery at all.
I still have the old voltage regulator in the basement. If any of you could help me solve either/both of these problems so I have at least one good voltage regulator, I'd be very thankful.
#2
I would take a meter and check the voltage at the battery with the truck off, and then with the truck running. The voltage should be higher with the truck running if it's charging. Then at least you would know if the system is working properly and you just have a light problem, or the light is correct and it is not charging.
#3
I agree with Franklin. If that dosen't solve it if you can get one from a local parts store I would try that, because you should alway be able to take it back. Better yet if you have a auto-zone close by they should check your battery and alt/gen for free. I could be wrong but I think it should say if your regulator is bad or not.
And getting a free one that may be why you got it. Who knows do some checking, and good luck!
And getting a free one that may be why you got it. Who knows do some checking, and good luck!
#4
#5
You are definitely running off of your battery. The brighter that light, the greater the discharge. The light indicates the differential voltage between input to the battery (charging) and battery output. At idle, with a generator, it will commonly glow dimly. At 3000 RPM your generator should be at it's peak output; it cuts in at about 1500 RPM.
#6
Look in your phone book and see if there is an independent generator, starter rebuilder in your area. I have one close to me and they are great, I had the alternator go out in my Accord and Shucks wanted $145.00 for a rebuilt unit. I took it to the Rebuilder and he rebuilt mine and charged me $43.00 with a 1 year warranty. I also had a problem with my regulator and drove my 51F1 there and removed it in his parking lot he checked it and sold me a new one. I installed it there he then checked the charging system for free.
#7
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Saskatoon SK Canada
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#9
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#11
It sounds like something is not grounded. The regulator may not be for your truck.
Or something is not hooked up right.
BAT term. to battery, FLD to the generator should only be one wire. GEN big wire to the big lug on the back of generator. Also the wire from the dash warning light should be hooked to BAT term.
Hope that makes sense.
Their is a way to test the generator on the truck by puting it full charge. If all else fails I can try and explain how.
Or something is not hooked up right.
BAT term. to battery, FLD to the generator should only be one wire. GEN big wire to the big lug on the back of generator. Also the wire from the dash warning light should be hooked to BAT term.
Hope that makes sense.
Their is a way to test the generator on the truck by puting it full charge. If all else fails I can try and explain how.
#12
The regulator that was in it was the factory original. The voltage tester tells me that the "new" regulator wasn't charging at all, so the old one is back in. In between taking it out and putting it back in, I cleaned up all the contacts on the generator, regulator, battery, and starter solenoid. That seemed to clear up the problem until tonight, when I noticed it having Problem A again (cutting in and out).
I think the brushes in my generator might be shot.
Also, If I remember correctly, the regulator was hooked up with the dash light on the ARM terminal. It was like that when I got the truck and it's worked fine until now.
I think the brushes in my generator might be shot.
Also, If I remember correctly, the regulator was hooked up with the dash light on the ARM terminal. It was like that when I got the truck and it's worked fine until now.
#13
#14
If you listen closely, your truck is asking for an alternator with internal regulator, like a Delco 10SI. I am in the process of converting mine from 6 volt positive ground; my main motivation is the reliability. The cost will be about a wash compared to getting my generator overhauled and regulator replaced. If you are concerned with keeping it stock original, then this is not for you.