In my first pass at getting the van on the road, I was trying to flush and fill the transmission in the way that was explained by others on this list. It occurs to me that I don't know how the torque converter can get fully filled during operation. Before installing, I filled it as much as I could by hand. I think it less than two quarts before it would start to leak out when I turned it upright. When installed, the centerline of the torque converter is above the normal fill level in the pan, so I'm not sure how it can ever get or stay completely filled. Then when I tried to add fluid through the dip stick tube, I could not add more than 4 more quarts to it. I'm sure the owner's manual said 10 quarts for a 4wd model. So I run the engine a little, but the pan level stays the same. I drove it around a bit, and the level stays the same. It that seems after the initial fill, the torque converter won't take any more.

So is there a way to properly fill the torque converter, and is it suppose be "fully" filled? How?

 

It is good practice to put some fluid in a new converter prior to installation. Do not worry about filling it, the trans pump fully pressurizes it and it is completely filled 10 seconds after engine start.

Ken

 

Exactly! as Ken said! As long as your filter (screen?) is new or completely clean, the converter will fill to the correct level after a few seconds, I'll disagree with Ken here, and say 13 seconds it will fill with clean, fresh, pristine candy apple red ATF! Just check your ATF level after varying driving conditions, on a level surface, engine idling in park. The only time you'll get an overly higher than actual capacity reading, is checking your ATF if towing with your Aerostar, or extended hill climbing, which will expand and heat up the fluid, somewhat more than regular "hot ATF". Trust me, normal temp of the ATF is HHOOOTTTT, I sometimes wonder how those A4LD's stay together.
That is why a drain plug is so convenient on the pan. Even if not doing a full service, you can drain the fluid, and your transmission will last thousands of miles, with ATF, not burnt, overheated, and having it's fresh additive package. Pat yourself then, on the back, for a job well done! Ed

 

One more thing. Clean, fresh ATF pump much faster, during frigid, zero degree night, winter conditions. Older, worn fluid, get stuff and "jello-like" in those frigid temps...Ed

 

"Get Stiff" is what I meant to say, above ^. Sorry. Ed

 

Ed, Ken,

Thanks. The transmission is out again on my second foray to the back of the engine to chase down nagging leaks. See my thread called "New oil leak"

 

I've seen recommendations of using a synthetic ATF. Is Mobil 1 synth ATF advisable? The bottle says it's good for Dexron/Mercon/Mercon V applications. But I also read that Mercon V is not recommended for the A4LD.

 

ATF only rated Mercon V is not good for the frictions in older prior approx '97 Ford auto tranny's.
Mobil 1 ATF is a universal rated product that is rated for all Ford applications and is designed to work with both types of friction material.
no need for the spendy synthetic unless hauling hvy loads often, towing in excess of 1000 lbs or in high head winds or continuous operation in temps year around above 80d F or if one wants to run extended full changes in excess of 50k miles....
i tow in hot climates in summer and go extended full drains so i run Mobil 1 ATF in tranny and transfer case

 

Hi guys, would you need to do a complete tranny flush when changing from regular ATF to synthetic ATF, ie will it mix ok with what is left in t/c and all the nooks and crannys of the tranny case.?????

 

will mix with no problems

 

So Mobil 1 ATF it is...it seems to be the least costly of the real synthetic oils.

I've read that an aftermarket transmission cooler will help the transmission work better and live longer. What do the experienced people think of this:

http://www.perma-cool.com/Catalog/Cat_page15.html

I was thinking that the 18" frame rail version should mount in place of the stock cooler, but with some home-made brackets to put it into the bumper slots. On the other hand, it looks just like a longer version of the stock cooler.

 

use a plate and fin type cooler mounted in front of radiator/ac condensor....far more efficient cooling and easier to mount than frame rail cooler...mount up high in main air flow from main grille air vents....not much air flow down where Ferd mounts that stupid small aux. tranny cooler

bypass stock in radiator tank cooler, will leak coolant into tranny and ruin

http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/me...e=derale-plate
Derale kits come with all fitting and mounting parts.


i also use an inline filter...replace inline filter every 20k...filters out all the old burned clutch pack and band face material that flakes off...fluid stays clean and fresh

http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/me...ct_Code=M010CB

 

Thanks 96.

I'm wondering if putting more heat up in front of the other coolers would make them less effective.

 

no problemo as long as fan clutch and belt are working 100%
a frame mounted oil cooler is almost worthless on hill pulls and in town driving at slow speeds unless you mount a fan on it as is done in racing apps.

 

Xlt4wd90:

Put the cooler in front of the condenser as suggested. Very little adverse effect to condenser of radiator. Also, the stock cooler, if flushed thoroughly, would work well as a cooler for your power steering pump, just so you don't have to throw it away.