Fuel leak on top of engine
#2
I'm no expert by a long shot but I had the same problem and question a few days(post's) ago. Scroll down a bit and check it out. Your truck is the same age as mine, I have 122k on the motor, so without anymore info, I would guess your fuel pump is going to be the problem. There's a little weep hole at the bottom of the pump that was shooting out fuel on mine. It was hard to see at first and wasn't noticable when the truck was idling in the driveway, I had to steam the motor then take it for a drive on the freeway to check the results.
#4
I had a leak on top of mine too. I found that a vacuum switch off the driverside of the fuel filter housing was leaking. Seems like the little jewel was about $45.00 at the dealership. If I remember right, I could not get it at a parts store.
Now, I have another leak off the back side of the filter housing that I cannot see. I am afraid I am going to have to pull off some of the Turbo to find it. If anyone has an idea of what i can look for, I would appreciate it.
97 F250 7.3L PS Crew Cab 4x4
Now, I have another leak off the back side of the filter housing that I cannot see. I am afraid I am going to have to pull off some of the Turbo to find it. If anyone has an idea of what i can look for, I would appreciate it.
97 F250 7.3L PS Crew Cab 4x4
#5
#6
I just had the same problem. I started to change the fuel pump and what a pain. The darn thing is burried by the turbo. Took it to a mechanic and he couldn't convince either of us it was the fuel pump. So we changed everything unde the turbo. I can give you a list of the parts if you need them. It cost me $1300.00 but it is all undre warrinty and we shouldnt have to go back in. And it was worth the money its a big job.
1997 F250 PSD 4WD 153000 Mi.
1997 F250 PSD 4WD 153000 Mi.
#7
If it is your fuel pump I did mine and I'm not the most mechanically inclined but it did take me most of the day about 7 hours. It is kinda a biznach to get too but I did not have to remove the turbo, a lot of stuff around it but not the turbo. Oh by the way if you do decide to tackle it yourself be sure and keep your head on strait and not get worked up. Yes you will become VERY familiar with your truck almost personal with it.
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#9
#10
#11
I stole this from a really great website on our trucks.
Thanks to "Steve Baz".
On California-emission vehicles the banjo fitting is too far under the turbo and fuel line damper to reach with a wrench and access is restricted for using a socket (you may get the bolt out, but good luck getting the it back in). In this case and with the Econoline due to its body design, it is necessary to remove the turbocharger to remove the lift pump instead of the fuel filter housing. In all cases, when installing the new lift pump, lube the o-ring on the pump shank with dielectric grease and start the banjo bolt a couple of threads before installing a tightening the mounting bolts. Again, take care not to damage the sealing washers. Once the pump is secured to the block, tighten the banjo bolt to 40 ft/lbs.
Thanks to "Steve Baz".
On California-emission vehicles the banjo fitting is too far under the turbo and fuel line damper to reach with a wrench and access is restricted for using a socket (you may get the bolt out, but good luck getting the it back in). In this case and with the Econoline due to its body design, it is necessary to remove the turbocharger to remove the lift pump instead of the fuel filter housing. In all cases, when installing the new lift pump, lube the o-ring on the pump shank with dielectric grease and start the banjo bolt a couple of threads before installing a tightening the mounting bolts. Again, take care not to damage the sealing washers. Once the pump is secured to the block, tighten the banjo bolt to 40 ft/lbs.
Last edited by Cuda_jim; 06-09-2006 at 03:33 PM. Reason: Need to add aurthor
#12
#13
that can be repaired by jb weld if it is the housing.
ca truck are harder due to removing the turbo.
but this job can be done by yourself for around 150 bucks. a little more for a ca truck due to orings and such for the pedistal.
to keep the tappet from falling in the oil pan. once fuel pump is loose and blue hoses are disconnected turn the crank by hand with a 24mm socket and ratchet. this will unseat the fuel pump and lift it up about an inch. once its up just pull it straight out and you should be fine.
ca truck are harder due to removing the turbo.
but this job can be done by yourself for around 150 bucks. a little more for a ca truck due to orings and such for the pedistal.
to keep the tappet from falling in the oil pan. once fuel pump is loose and blue hoses are disconnected turn the crank by hand with a 24mm socket and ratchet. this will unseat the fuel pump and lift it up about an inch. once its up just pull it straight out and you should be fine.
#14
Had this problem last year, the valley under the pump would fill up with fuel and ten run down the back of the engine, appearing to be leaking from the t/c cover. I took it to the shop, the mechanic took a small dentists mirror (availabe at Walgreen's for under 5 bucks!) and held it down in the valley looking up at the bottom of the pump with the engine running. Sure enough, just like The Weez said, there was fuel exiting the bleed hole on the pump. He replaced it with a Motorcraft stock pump, as well as all hoses. Parts and labor was 300 dollars.
#15
F350/hips
White 1997 F350 Crue Cab Dually. 7.3 Powerstroke, 180,000 miles. Popup gooseneck 21L conversion package. Standard fuel tanks + 90 gal in the bed with separate fuel pump. Overhead console with built in strobe lights, aircraft directional reading lights and built in CB mount. Cab trimmed in solid walnut.
Love my truck!!!
F350/hips
Love my truck!!!
F350/hips