Its a custom built F350 with a 6.9 and a ATS turbo kit. Approximately 125,000 miles. It's been sitting for almost 2 years undriven.
There are twin 40 gallon tanks. Set up semi style to draw off both tanks, until the shut off valve for the DS is closed
New batteries, and it cranks over just fine.
Glow plugs all checked good. getting power
Put in 40 gallons of fresh fuel, to dilute old diesel out in tanks, (it had about 5 gallons in each tank left) Fuel caps were on tight, and it didn't have any water in the separator.

low pressure pump works fine, high pressure seems to be fine, had a number of leaks from return hoses between injectors, so we replaced all those.

Now the question is: WHY WON'T IT START??
Used up about 1/2 can of starting fluid sprayed all over the air filter, and it seemed to cough a couple times. but it won't catch and run.

I waited till summer to try and get this beast going, so I could start it in 85 degree weather instead of 35 deg.

I also thought that starting fluid was a sure way to start it even though it's hard on cylinder walls.

Is there something electrical in the HP pump that shuts it off?

It was also suggested that I pull the truck behind a tractor (this F350 weighs about 9,000 lb) release the clutch in first or second and pull start it?
I think thats got to be hard on the trans, fighting against diesel compression...

Any suggestions greatly appreciated.. Getting a little frustrated here...

thanks
Dane V
www.fordautowrecking.com

 

Just hought I would give you a quick update, I just got a call from my mechanic at the shop. he got it started!!!!
OK now big worry is gone, but he says it's acting starved for fuel and it's firing on one bank only...
were' putting another fuel filter in it...
is there any really good additive I can put in the tanks to help clean the system out?
thanks
DV

 

I have found any of the following Additives to be good:

Diesel Kleen
Diesel Tone
Howie's
Lubricity

Changing the filter is an excellent idea. The old fuel could have had an algea bloom (organic growth) in it over two years of sitting which leaves behind solids that plug up the filter.

You may have to replace the filter several times.

 

BD Power has always stood behind Stanadyne Fuel Products 100%

 

An algae bloom? serious?
I will get a couple bottles of Diesel kleen I have seen it at the NAPA
thanks
DV

 

Dan, useing a diesel conditioner on a continious basis will extend the life of your IP-helps with lubrication, injectors-helps keeping them clean, diesel fuel-helps with impurities, and now there is going to be less sulfer [lubricate in diesel] so you are going to need to use one more than ever...you would think Im getting paid by a diesel additive company or something...I wish!

 

OK progress
Got the diesel kleen additive, went to the trouble of looking company website and contacting tech support VERY NICE/HELPFUL. The girl there gave me the riot act though for not properly draining the tanks, adding algae. slimeX killer etc.
but basically said that 40 gallons fresh with half bottle of fuel conditioner and half bottle of cleaner would dissolve the gunk. and gel.
Now We can get the engine started sort of....
It tries and it winds up and it kinda runs for a few seconds... and shakes and rattles.....
Now I undid the injector lines on the left bank (DS) and crank it.
It spurts fuel out each line, not alot just big drops in a rythmic pattern (makes sense to be in time with compression stroke. )
But how much fuel should it be squirting out?
a diesel mech. I talked to tonight said it should be spraying alot.
a Haynes manual I read in tonight said a small amount is only injected...

Is the timing on it super critical? I found the timing mark on the housing and it looked like the original position...

I readup on the removal procedure for the IP. Not too difficult. linkage, wires, high pressure lines and three bolts at the back where it bolts to the timing cover......
the haynes book didn't say anything about how to diassasemble the injector pump. And I'm sure that most all will say to replace it.
But I have to believe that it couldn't be too terribly difficult to take it apart, clean it carefully; maybe theres still gell/wax etc built up inside.
And put it back together..
I took a skid steer hydrostatic pump apart, fixed the worn plates and reassembled it and it worked. so a little pump like this couldn't be too hard...

That said though. any tips or suggestions?

thanks for help so far..
Dane V
(quickly learning to be a deisel mechanic....)

 

I dont know if the injection pump would have the gelled fuel inside it. I would change the heck out of the filter, filling it with clean fuel before installation. Make sure the glow plugs are working properly or use the block heater for a couple hours to make sure the water jacket is warm for startup. DONT CRANK ON THE STARTER TOO LONG ... very heat sensitive. As far as fuel flow from injection lines, you wont have too much pressure from the disconnected line itself, just lots of it. It is the injector that makes the spray. Be careful moving the steel lines around, dont want to put a kink in any of them. If you remove the injection pump, dont remove the tower and the drive gear ... there are 3 5/16 12 pt bolts inside the oil fill cover to remove the pump.

 

I have checked all of the above. the only real unknown is the IP.

Is there a pressure port on it that I can aatach a pressure gauge to it?
I didn't see one, but then I may not know what/where to look for..

D

 

The Ip is very tight tolerances. You need special tools and specs that are not easy to find to set it up. Best left to an injection shop that has the tools to do it right.

The quantity of fuel that comes out of the steel lines is not that much at cranking speeds.

I would drain the fuel filter and fill it with Diesel Kleen, then pull start the truck in second gear. Just make sure you keep the engine under 2000 RPM. Pull starting is not as hard on the clutch and tranny as cranking the engine repeatedly is on the starter. The are expensive when they burn up.

If it starts with the straight diesel kleen in the filter it ill not hurt a thing, and it should clean out any deposits in the IP. Also it may have to run for a couple of minutes to get any air worked out of the fuel lines after it does start.

 

I pulled the IP out today and got some ugly looking muck out of the lines.
A diesel mech stopped by th truck and looked and the pump. He turned it several times and listened to it. and said it has a catch or something inside that didn't sound right.
I found a used IP in a yard in SLC that came from from a known good runner.
$75 so I'm going to put it in.
I need to get this truck running and going soon, It needs to get to Kansas this weekend..
I will try pull starting it... we have been cranking on the starter alot.

Also regards the other post about changing the injector pump.... I asked what "flats" meant. Now thats clear.. but where is the allen head fuel screw located on the IP?
Is it the large one on the bottom of the pump?
The pump is a Stanadyne Mod: DB2829
Is that a good one?

thanks all for the help and advise....
Dane V
www.fordautowrecking.com

 

Well it's all over but the fat lady singing...
Truck condition Terminal.
With the new IP on it sure cranked over alot better and it almost starts, not quite, but really trying.... it barks and coughs and just never quite makes it..
So as a last ditch attempt we hooked a chain on it and got it out on to the road and second gear about 15 mph, and Rob lets out the clutch easy and my old 69 a pulling away for about 100 feet, and that motor just LOCKS UP tighter than hell. The back tires are skidding, and I'm pulling a 9000 lb lump of lead, but not very far.

So what happened? I cannot for the life of me figure out why it seized.. And it doesn't budge, a bit
I came back to it tonight after dinner, several beers and alot of cool down time away from the pile of $%@%. hit it again with the starter and no change...
What could have been different pull starting it to starter cranking?
This has been a week long disaster. The guy still wants the truck.
but I need to supply a running engine.
I understand the 7.3 will bolt in from the 6.9
Was the 7.3 used up to 88-89?
I need a good proven runner 6.9/7.3 either here in Salt Lake City or in Topeka KS. (The new owner of the truck lives in Topeka)

thanks
Dane V
www.fordautowrecking.com

 

Pull the glow plugs out, all of them.
Then try turning the engine over again.
If it turns and you blow coolant out of one of the glow plug holes, your block is cavitated or a head gasket is blown and the engine hydrolocked.

Still it is bad news as far as the engine is concerned, but at least you know what the problem is. If you tear it down and it is just a head gasket, the engine may be salvageable. If it is cavitated, it is junk.