Construction Adhesive Removal
#1
Construction Adhesive Removal
My wife started a home improvement project again. We had some cedar panel about 4" wide, less than an 1/8" thick, in different lengths, glued to our walls. After going through the same ordeal in our downstairs bathroom, my wife decided to tackle our spare bedroom. Only this time, she doesn't want wall paper and wainscotting. She wants fresh paint.
So. I got the cedar off the walls, but now I'm left with glue all over the walls. It's been on there since the house was built, probably 30 years.
How do I get the glue off the walls? What kind of product is there that will take it off? I was thinking acetone, but is there something better?
So. I got the cedar off the walls, but now I'm left with glue all over the walls. It's been on there since the house was built, probably 30 years.
How do I get the glue off the walls? What kind of product is there that will take it off? I was thinking acetone, but is there something better?
#2
#7
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#8
#9
I don't know. Regular 1/2" at Home Depot is $9.26(US) a sheet. Fire rated 5/8th" sheet rock is $10.96 a sheet.(what I use and recomend.) Average small room is 8'x10'. Thats 7 sheets. Plus 8 corners and 10 seams to spackle. $64.82 for sheetrock and $12.59 for a 5 gal bucket of spackle. Plus tape. It would take you a day to tear out all the drywall. A day to hang and first coat. Then two more coats. Prime and paint. Time wise your looking at an extra day's work. Plus $50.00+ for materials. The house was built 30 years ago, so it should have 60C romex and r-13/r-19 insulation in the walls. (depending on 2x4 or 2x6)
Try using a heat gun, going back and forth being careful not to burn the paper on the sheet rock. Use a scraper. Then decide if you want to scrape it off or replace it all. I had a similar experience with wall board glued to drywall in a living room. Tore off all the panneling, scraped the glue off with a 1/4" thick 4" scraper.(think heavy duty paint/wallpaper) Then took a 12" knife with lightweight compund with a little dish soap mixed in. (Not premixed bucket, easy sand 90 brand. Mix yourself to get the consistency that you like to work with.) The soap keeps air bubbles down.(Also works in the premixed buckes. But you need a Steel mixer rod on a 1/2" heavy duty drill or equivelent) It took me 2 days to strip and spackle a 12x16 room and the hall back. (ranch) Also helps to take the moulding down.
Try using a heat gun, going back and forth being careful not to burn the paper on the sheet rock. Use a scraper. Then decide if you want to scrape it off or replace it all. I had a similar experience with wall board glued to drywall in a living room. Tore off all the panneling, scraped the glue off with a 1/4" thick 4" scraper.(think heavy duty paint/wallpaper) Then took a 12" knife with lightweight compund with a little dish soap mixed in. (Not premixed bucket, easy sand 90 brand. Mix yourself to get the consistency that you like to work with.) The soap keeps air bubbles down.(Also works in the premixed buckes. But you need a Steel mixer rod on a 1/2" heavy duty drill or equivelent) It took me 2 days to strip and spackle a 12x16 room and the hall back. (ranch) Also helps to take the moulding down.
Last edited by LilDuke; 05-25-2006 at 12:41 PM.
#10
Originally Posted by LilDuke
A sharp scraper with extra blades. Skim coat with spackle. Then a good oil based primer. ( I prefer Killz)
You could replace the drywall, or maybe just go over it with new drywall. A second layer of drywall would just add sound insulation, but you might have to extend door jambs, and window frames. I'd have to see it, and try to scrape it before I decided which way to go.
I would avoid the solvent/acetone myself.
#11
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