Yeah, aint technology grand, but with that wiring diagram from subford you should be able to figure this out.

I guess that IS your inertia switch. If you tap it on the floor the button should pop up. Push it back down & if the contacts in it are dirty, that might even solve your problem.

 

Do not make this any harder than it is, “Will try to put the prong in the Orange wire then to a ground, yes?”
Yes as 87 XLT said this Orange w/ Blue line wire feeds the inertia switch and should be hot for 2 seconds when you turn the key to RUN.

Also check the feed to the Fuel Pump Relay, the Black Wire with an Orange stripe or Yellow Wire (depending on what page was right in the manual) should be hot at all times. The Red wire should be hot with the key in the start and run position. The EEC will sink the Tan Wire with a Light Green Strip to ground for the 2 seconds when the key is turn on and again when the EEC sees a pulse form the ICM.

Not a bad system and an easy one to troubleshoot once you get the basics down.
Good Luck
Bill K

 

I want to thank you guys again for all your help.

Ok, meter testing the Orange/blue wire showed no voltage at the inertia switch plug. The Black/orange (which happens to be Black/red on mine, either way) shows around 12v constant on the relay plug. I am not the least circuit savvy so all this is a little tough for me. The Red wire shows about 12v when in run position. The Orange/blue on the inertia switch and the Orange/blue on the relay plugs ring with the continuity tester.

So is my new relay bad? Please be patient with me, I know I’m testing your nerves.

 

The voltages that you do have are what they should be, except at the inertia switch.

See this link www.superhighoutput.com/tech_view.php?id=5 & when you connect the jumper you should have 12 volts on orange/lightblue for as long as your jumper is connected.

This little test will narrow down the possibilities of what the problem is.

 

It's been crazy around here today, which is why I did'nt mention this in my last post.

The self test connector will be somewhere under the hood, might be on the firewall/fender/or just hanging by it's wires.

REconnect the inertia switch &connect that jumper wire as shown at the link. If the pumps run the problem is probably a bad EEC/computer.

If they dont run check voltage at the orange/light blue wire again at the inertia switch. If it's not there check the same wire at the pump relay.

BTW, good job of checking the voltages, were getting there.

 

As 87 XLT said this is normal and it sounds like the EEC is not sinking the Tan Wire with a Light Green Strip to ground for the 2 seconds when the key is turn on.

If you are making the tests after the key is on for two seconds you will have no power on the Orange wire with the blue stripe.

Your test connector should be right behind the passenger head light but I remember from some place that the 1987 Fords did not have one. So if you do not have one ground the Tan Wire with a Light Green Strip at the Fuel Pump Relay and see if it clicks and the pumps run, you will have to have the key on for this to happen.

If it clicks and fuel pumps come on your relays are good.

If you have the Test (DLC) connector here is a diagram of one and you would ground pin #6.

 

I was wondering if you did any work around the battery, there is a small Black wire with a green stripe coming off the Neg. (-) Post connector of the Battery and has an inline plug about 3-6 inches along the wire from the Battery.
If this wire does not have a good ground the Fuel Pumps will not run and the EEC cannot ground anything.

 

Easily located the self test connector, I tried using it in the past to pull codes (found out I have no check engine light, lol). Plugged all the clips back, along with the new relay and grounded pin 6. Pumps ran. So I figured that my EEC/computer is bad, and trying to rationalize if it was worth getting a replacement (only paid $350 for the van).

Then I saw subford’s post about the battery ground. Looked at the battery, and there was a small black wire, with no other color chillin there. Never thought anything of it as I don’t remember there ever being anything hooked to it. Found a fused black wire with a white line, touched them together and sure enough the pumps ran.

All this trouble and it comes down to one wire. Guess that’s why these forums are here. I’d like to thank all of you for your help. Might be a good idea to clean up under my hood to help prevent this from happening again, too many unused wire hanging out there.

 

Yeah, those disconnected wires will clobber you everytime.

Glad to her you got it figured out.

And kudos to subford, he sure nailed it.

When i looked into converting my EFI Ranger to propane I changed my mind after being told it would require a second computer and the extra wiring that goes with it.

Since yours WAS converted you might still have some of that excess baggage wiring still under the hood.

 

Yeah, there's a whole gaggle of stuff nobody I know can figure out. Still got parts of the system bolt on, just not hooked up. A real pain.

 

To 87 XLT
It uses the same computer and there are only a few wires to add, I can send some photos and diagrams if you would like.

To fattmann
I am also glad to hear that you got it figured out that wires bites a lot of the best.

To everybody
As far as Kudos go you all can always click on my little Kudo scale in the upper right by the post number in one of my posts, I still only have one green square.

 

Subford thanks for the offer of the wiring diagrams, but it's been 10 years since i was thinking about the propane conversion.

These days the Rangers main duties are towing my boat or travel trailer and only about 5K miles a year. I'm very glad that i'm no longer doing the 110 mile a day roundtrip to work in SoCal trafic.

So i'm not going to bother with the conversion.

 

Sorry about the Wiring Diagrams I posted in this Thread, they are all wrong for the 1987 E series van.
I was thinking that the 1987 and 1988 were the same, they are not.
The 1987 van has complete different fuel system than the 1988.

 

Here is a 1987 Fuel Sel. Diagram

 

if the power only comes on for two seconds at the pump what makes the fuel keep flowing?