MII Install Snafu....maybe
#1
MII Install Snafu....maybe
Ok, I've got the boxing plates tacked on, they are square, straight, and true..... to each other, and the outside of the frame......
The crossmember doesn't fit. The gap is 27.5, and the crossmember is 27.25. That's .25 difference, or .125 gap on either side, between each boxing plate and the crossmember.
So, do I start cutting this frame up for scrap, or can I weld in .125 (1/8th) plate, to take up the gap? Is that safe? How far do the "shims" need to extend passed the x-member????
Whiskey. Tango. Foxtrot. If it's not one thing, it's another. I need a break. Fiji sounds nice this time of year....
The crossmember doesn't fit. The gap is 27.5, and the crossmember is 27.25. That's .25 difference, or .125 gap on either side, between each boxing plate and the crossmember.
So, do I start cutting this frame up for scrap, or can I weld in .125 (1/8th) plate, to take up the gap? Is that safe? How far do the "shims" need to extend passed the x-member????
Whiskey. Tango. Foxtrot. If it's not one thing, it's another. I need a break. Fiji sounds nice this time of year....
Last edited by Jker; 05-19-2006 at 11:19 AM.
#2
Originally Posted by Jker
Ok, I've got the boxing plates tacked on, they are square square, straight, and true..... to each other, and the outside of the frame......
The crossmember doesn't fit. The gap is 27.5, and the crossmember is 27.25. That's .25 difference, or .125 gap on either side, between each boxing plate and the crossmember.
So, do I start cutting this frame up for scrap, or can I weld in .125 (1/8th) plate, to take up the gap? Is that safe? How far do the "shims" need to extend passed the x-member????
Whiskey. Tango. Foxtrot. If it's not one thing, it's another. I need a break. Fiji sounds nice this time of year....
The crossmember doesn't fit. The gap is 27.5, and the crossmember is 27.25. That's .25 difference, or .125 gap on either side, between each boxing plate and the crossmember.
So, do I start cutting this frame up for scrap, or can I weld in .125 (1/8th) plate, to take up the gap? Is that safe? How far do the "shims" need to extend passed the x-member????
Whiskey. Tango. Foxtrot. If it's not one thing, it's another. I need a break. Fiji sounds nice this time of year....
Last edited by 53fatfndr; 05-19-2006 at 11:32 AM.
#3
I can't see where adding an 1/8" doubler to each boxing plate to take up the difference would be a big deal, but I'd first check with the crossmember's manufacturer to check your measurements to be sure there isn't a problem with the frame. Also check diagonal measurements to be sure the frame is square and the center of the crossmember is indeed in the center of the truck. I would cut the doublers ~ 8" longer than the width of the crossmember then cut each end at an angle so the top is slightly wider than the crossmember to 4" wider than the cross member at the bottom kinda like this: /|____|\ That will be stronger than a straight cut and have a better appearance. I'd also drill a 1/2" or larger hole in the center and plug weld it to the boxing plate.
#4
#5
#6
Jker -
1/4" is a piece of cake! I would go the added shims idea, but not the full 1/8" on either side. If you set it up net, you'll just be welding the fillet. That's OK between parallel plates, but less than optimum for the square rig of crossmember and rail. That joint needs a root pas for penetration. Make the shims .090 thick. Fillet weld them to the rails, then root pass the welds to the crossmember, letting the weld penetrate into the gap between rail face and crossmember end. Way strong! You'll be fine.
1/4" is a piece of cake! I would go the added shims idea, but not the full 1/8" on either side. If you set it up net, you'll just be welding the fillet. That's OK between parallel plates, but less than optimum for the square rig of crossmember and rail. That joint needs a root pas for penetration. Make the shims .090 thick. Fillet weld them to the rails, then root pass the welds to the crossmember, letting the weld penetrate into the gap between rail face and crossmember end. Way strong! You'll be fine.
#7
Originally Posted by Randy Jack
Jker -
1/4" is a piece of cake! I would go the added shims idea, but not the full 1/8" on either side. If you set it up net, you'll just be welding the fillet. That's OK between parallel plates, but less than optimum for the square rig of crossmember and rail. That joint needs a root pas for penetration. Make the shims .090 thick. Fillet weld them to the rails, then root pass the welds to the crossmember, letting the weld penetrate into the gap between rail face and crossmember end. Way strong! You'll be fine.
1/4" is a piece of cake! I would go the added shims idea, but not the full 1/8" on either side. If you set it up net, you'll just be welding the fillet. That's OK between parallel plates, but less than optimum for the square rig of crossmember and rail. That joint needs a root pas for penetration. Make the shims .090 thick. Fillet weld them to the rails, then root pass the welds to the crossmember, letting the weld penetrate into the gap between rail face and crossmember end. Way strong! You'll be fine.
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