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Rear Rotor Replace on 2000 4WD Excursion

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Old 05-17-2006, 10:58 AM
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Rear Rotor Replace on 2000 4WD Excursion

I purchased a set of Powerslots and Hawk pads to replace front and rear on my 2000 4WD Ex. I picked the rear to start on and had everything apart and ready to remove the rotor, but cannot get the rotor off the hub. I searched the forums and some of the advice indicates this should just slip right over the hub but you may have to force (see large hammer or other correct tool) to get the hub loose. However, I would swear it looks like you have to remove the hub and axle in order to get the rotor off. While I am going to replace the rotors, I have to admit I have not used a lot of force yet to get the rotor off. I've just been hesitant to do any real damage in the event you do have to remove the hub and axle to get this off.

I looking for anyone that has actually replaced these rotors on a 2000 4WD Ex to tell me what you did before I go down the wrong path on mine.

Thanks for the help,
Steve
 
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Old 05-17-2006, 11:04 AM
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Get a BIG hammer, they'll come off.
 
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Old 05-17-2006, 11:09 AM
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I CAN FAX YOU A COPY OF SHOP MANUAL IF YOU LIKE.

Ed





All except Ford single rear wheel axle
  1. NOTE: The brake disc is part of the wheel hub on all axles except the Ford 10.50-inch axle for single rear wheel applications. Removal of the hub on a Dana axle is covered in Section 205-02C. The hub on a Ford axle for dual rear wheel applications is covered in Section 205-02E.
 

Last edited by Parts Guy Wyatt; 05-17-2006 at 11:15 AM.
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Old 05-17-2006, 11:15 AM
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When I removed mine (2000 4x4 psd) I used a small sledge hammer and hit the back side of the rotor, changing locations of the point of impact each time. It's just a matter of breaking the bonds of the rust between the metal of the rotor and that of the hub. By the way, I'm sure you'll be happy w/the power slots and hawks. Those are the replacements I went with and couldn't be happier w/them. Good luck.
 
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Old 05-17-2006, 03:21 PM
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Yep, all you need is a Ford Tool, a good sized ball peen will do the trick.
 
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Old 05-21-2006, 04:09 PM
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Thanks to everyone for all of the help. Somehow I picked the harderst of the 4 rotors to start with. I used a 2x4 to soften the blow on the other 3 rotors, but the 4th is now useless I beat it so hard to get it off. Maybe I'll put it up on e-bay and suggest it might make a nice clock. Anyway, thanks to everyone.
 
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Old 05-21-2006, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by themowlman
...Maybe I'll put it up on e-bay and suggest it might make a nice clock. Anyway, thanks to everyone.
LOL. You've have to double stud the wall where they mount that clock.
 
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Old 11-19-2012, 04:46 PM
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I am replacing my rear brakes rotors are shot, pads also, caliper is rusted very bad ..Would you guys replace the caliper also?and I beat the rotor off correct ? thanks George
 
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Old 11-19-2012, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by geo422
I am replacing my rear brakes rotors are shot, pads also, caliper is rusted very bad ..Would you guys replace the caliper also?and I beat the rotor off correct ? thanks George
I wouldn't worry about the calipers as long as they aren't leaking and the piston goes back in without any problem. Yes, the rear rotors are slip on and you need to get a big hammer and they'll come off.
 
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Old 11-19-2012, 07:16 PM
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I took the left rear off the caliper off the outside pad was halfway wore down the inside pad was all the way down to metal. Just a curious question why ?
 
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by geo422
I took the left rear off the caliper off the outside pad was halfway wore down the inside pad was all the way down to metal. Just a curious question why ?
The calipers are not floating. The calipers need to move as the brakes are applied. You need to make sure that the slide pins are moving freely and are greased. If they are stuck and will not come out of the caliper bracket then you may have to replace the brackets.
 
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Old 11-23-2012, 02:45 PM
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Rob you are correct one slide pin was froze solid in the caliper bracket.I got new rotors ,pads and calipers for the rearalone with the caliper bracket. I didnt get the loaded calipers since buying the pads and calipers seperated was cheaper.When I go to mount the pads onto the new caliper bracket the pads seem a bit too long is this normal?Or do I need to grind the ends down a bit? First time I have ever did brakes on a suv this size .Thanks for all the advice George
 
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Old 11-23-2012, 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by geo422
Rob you are correct one slide pin was froze solid in the caliper bracket.I got new rotors ,pads and calipers for the rearalone with the caliper bracket. I didnt get the loaded calipers since buying the pads and calipers seperated was cheaper.When I go to mount the pads onto the new caliper bracket the pads seem a bit too long is this normal?Or do I need to grind the ends down a bit? First time I have ever did brakes on a suv this size .Thanks for all the advice George
They should drop right in, make sure you have the right ones.
 
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Old 11-29-2012, 08:13 PM
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Ok guys I have another question. I replace the calipers , the bracket and everthing now I am putting the brake line back onto the new calipers the new calpiers came with 2 brass or copper washers I put one each side of the bolt.my problem is that the brake line is leaking where the bolt holds it to the caliper.what causes this or any ideals ? thanks George
 
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Old 11-29-2012, 08:33 PM
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Try both washers on the head side of the bolt. Don't over torque it. Had this issue with my wife's car. One washer and it leaked, two and its been good for thousands of miles.
 


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