When test driving used trucks, I got a pretty good feel for how much power the 99-03's should have and mine feels just a bit low compared to some of the top preformers that I drove. I'm just looking for the last bit. So, I've been playing with auto enginuty's software and am wondering if someone could give me some of the values they are getting for exaust back pressure, mass fuel, fuel required, oil pressure etc.

Also, I'm having trouble resetting the ECU and on occasion I can't get more than 1 live sensor to show on the screen. As soon as I turn on another sensor the other one stops.

I did the cps, air filter (6637), new fuel pump, fuel filter, pre-pump mod, back pressure sensor/tube (new/cleaned), glow plug regulator, removed/cleaned/tightend boost tubes, removed AIH for boost gauge line, and installed 4" turbo back exhaust. After all that, the truck still feels just a bit sluggish on take off and at high rpm. After 2500 rpms the truck just kind of peaks and holds, but it doesn't keep accelerating.

The truck is running very quiet and only has a puff of smoke upon start up in the a.m. at 40 degress. No oil in the coolant and I dropped around half a quart in between oil changes (3000 miles). The only symptoms I have are that the truck pulls better cold than warm and it isnt very responsive or strong before about 2000 rpms. (The truck really does not accelerate much until I hit boost.) I get a nice jolt after that, but then it levels out after it hits 2500-2700. Boost was hitting 15 stock, 18 with exhaust and 20 with exhaust and wastegate disconnected.

I thought it might help to get some sensor values, to see if anything is sub standard. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Before I add a chip, I'd like to make sure everything is running at its best. Any other testing ideas would also be appreciated.

 

Geoff you might need to download the update for the autoenginuity it helped mine it will work SOMETIMES now. not totally happy with it though wont read sometimes wont clear codes all the time and the record worked 1 time and hasnt since.

 

I would look at the pressure your HPOP is putting out. I think the AE calls it the ICP Pressure or something similar. Also look at the IPR %. You want 2500+ at wide open throttle for ICP and not much more than 35% for the IPR. Here is a graph I made after data logging a bit. I'm pretty sure this was my old Bully Dog chip, but my DP chip is not a whole lot higher. Obviously my early 99 HPOP with nearly 200,000 miles is not exactly a pumping machine.

 

Exhaust backpressure should read 2x's the manifold absolute pressure (boost). At 20 lbs of boost, you should be reading around 38-40 EBP. Check your injection pressure and injection pressure duty cycle. IP should read about 550 at idle and hold 2800 PSI at WOT. Duty cycle at WOT should get up to about 35%. Throttle position should read about 3.75 volts at WOT. Before you add a chip, you may want to consider sending your PCM to someone like DP Tuner and have Jody put on his 80 hp econo tune and shift patterns. I did this and when I ordered my flip chip, I knew what to ask for in shifts. A reflash of one of his tunes is only $75.

 

on the 40hp tune and up my icp percentage is over 60 but 39 when stock wot. what is causeing mint to go that high and i do get the p1211 code my hpop is abobe 2000 and icp volts aroud 4

 

Jody sets the ICP duty cycle at 65% on most of his tunes (stock is 35%), so you seem normal there. The P1211 code just says that you are not holding the pressure that the PCM is asking for. Mine doesn't either, but it doesn't cause run-ablilty issues. I think you are beyond my experience, but I will follow to see what everyone comes up with. Good luck on finding resolution. At least you have the equipment to test with.


Jim

 

Thanks mtgrizly, I'll check on the update tonight. Also thanks for sharing usability issues. I was wondering if I had a dud. We'll see what happens after the update.

 

Thanks for the great graphs!! I'll run HPOP, IPR and IPC tonight and report back. It might be nice to have a thread with everyone's values so people can compare and get an idea of the expected numbers.

 

As far as I can see, Autoenginuity has a pretty big learning curve before it becomes really useful.

I've played a little, but haven't had much time. I did figure out that my son's Miata has a bad catalytic converter by using this software.

 

Thanks for the numbers westpsd. I'll run the EBP vs MAP tonight. IP around 550 at idle and 2800 at WOT.

I've got a manual trans so no worries there. Do you know of any drivability issues with the manual trans and a chip? Jody's chip is the one I am looking at getting. Probably within the next week or two, once I've run all the numbers.

 

I had another question, will I need that overboost eliminator thingy when I get a chip?

 

What is your fuel pressure at idle and under load. Your boost pressure seems a little low.

 

I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge to the passenger side fuel rail port the weekend before last and it ran 55lbs at idle, but was dropping 10lbs after about 2500 rpms during WOT. So I replaced the fuel pump. I haven't checked it since, because I could tell the that top end had improved. But, I'm going to be doing the in tank mod this weekend. So, maybe after that, I'll check the pressure again. Is 55-60lbs about right? What should stock boost be? I also checked the turbo shortly after I bought the truck and it did not have any play in either direction. The truck has 80k.

 

Fuel pressure should be at least 60psi. Boost should be around 20psi stock. Fuel pressure should not be dropping off more than a couple of psi under load.

 

IP was 550 at idle and 2950 at WOT. Although it depended on what gear I was in.

I updated my software and now the codes get pulled. I got a b1342 and a B1203. Not sure how old they are though. This is the first time the laptop was successful. I cleared the codes and drove to work this morning. Then once home in the pm, I pulled the codes again and got just the AIH code. Which I expected since its unplugged.

B1203 - Fuel sender circuit short to battery. Could this have happened when I replaced the fuel pump? I only disconnected the negative terminals.

B1342 - ECU is defective? Could this be an old problem?