1966 F-100 to make long journey
#1
1966 F-100 to make long journey
Hey there. I am 18 and have just graduated high school. This summer I will be making a 2000+ mile journey to New Hampshire to go to college. I live in Colorado now. I rebuilt the orgnial 352FE when I was 16, plus added some upgrades for more power (headers, Cranecam, Holley 600, etc), so I know my engine is in fine shape for the journey. My truck was just painted, and it looks awesome. Also am installing a new wood bed kit from Mar-k. Does anyone have any tips for these old trucks for long journeys? I do have one issue with the engine, at 65mph+ the engine heats up. On the highway it runs at 200 degrees, which is acceptable but is getting near the overheating limit, and once it gets hot out, I fear it will overheat.
Anyway I will be showing up with a real head turner, I doubt anyone else will have a chrome yellow 1966 Ford! I am so excited, but will my tires make it that far?!
FERacing66
1966 Ford F-100
Twin I Beam
SWB Flareside
352FE
4/floor
Anyway I will be showing up with a real head turner, I doubt anyone else will have a chrome yellow 1966 Ford! I am so excited, but will my tires make it that far?!
FERacing66
1966 Ford F-100
Twin I Beam
SWB Flareside
352FE
4/floor
#2
#3
#4
200 degrees is about right for running efficently, but what worries me about your problem is that it heats up only at speed, with better airflow and more water flow. Fan shroud doesn't matter much at highway speeds. the wind can be blowing through faster than the fan can pull it.
A couple big things can cause this. One is the carb going lean at higher RPMs. Another is your timing being too advanced at higher RPMs. there are also a bunch of little things that can go wrong that may not matter much alone, but combined can make the problem worse. Bad thermastat, plugged waterway, rust in the waterjacket. corosion in the water jacket, plugging up radiator, wrong mix of antifreeze, Cavitating water pump impeller, ignition coil over heating, weak spark, wobbling distributor shaft, vacume leak in carb, vacuum leak due to heat expansion on intake, failing PCV valve, leaking break booster, ect...
A couple big things can cause this. One is the carb going lean at higher RPMs. Another is your timing being too advanced at higher RPMs. there are also a bunch of little things that can go wrong that may not matter much alone, but combined can make the problem worse. Bad thermastat, plugged waterway, rust in the waterjacket. corosion in the water jacket, plugging up radiator, wrong mix of antifreeze, Cavitating water pump impeller, ignition coil over heating, weak spark, wobbling distributor shaft, vacume leak in carb, vacuum leak due to heat expansion on intake, failing PCV valve, leaking break booster, ect...
#5
As for making the trip with a 40 year old truck, these are the things I would check to make sure you arrive safely AND keep it running so you don't have problems while you are at school - you need to stay focused on school, not on keeping your truck running:
1. Front brakes and wheel bearings- replace and repack as needed.
2. Front steering linkage - check and replace as needed.
3. Clutch and throwout bearing - any hint of problems, change them now.
4. Master cylinder good?
5. Rear brakes - check and fox as needed.
6. Rear axle bearings - have they ever been changed? Do it now, is my suggestion if you don't know.
7. Universal joints - are they OK? Well lubed?
Also, check your radiator hoses, heater hoses, rubber fuel lines, and your three rubber brakes lines. Replace if they are more than 5 years old. (The brake lines often swell up inside, and cause you problems.)
One thing to think about is the salt up in the northeast, so you may want to reconsider taking it with you up there. It will eat the sheet metal faster than nobody's business.
I wouldn't worry about water pumps and alternators at this point, unless there is an obvious weakness or impending problem. Those are pretty standard and can still be had easily enough. Anything you have to deal with right now, though, I would get fixed before driving it a long ways.
I would carry some spare fuel filters, a basic toolbox, and a spare set of points and condensor (if you are still using points).
Good luck!
1. Front brakes and wheel bearings- replace and repack as needed.
2. Front steering linkage - check and replace as needed.
3. Clutch and throwout bearing - any hint of problems, change them now.
4. Master cylinder good?
5. Rear brakes - check and fox as needed.
6. Rear axle bearings - have they ever been changed? Do it now, is my suggestion if you don't know.
7. Universal joints - are they OK? Well lubed?
Also, check your radiator hoses, heater hoses, rubber fuel lines, and your three rubber brakes lines. Replace if they are more than 5 years old. (The brake lines often swell up inside, and cause you problems.)
One thing to think about is the salt up in the northeast, so you may want to reconsider taking it with you up there. It will eat the sheet metal faster than nobody's business.
I wouldn't worry about water pumps and alternators at this point, unless there is an obvious weakness or impending problem. Those are pretty standard and can still be had easily enough. Anything you have to deal with right now, though, I would get fixed before driving it a long ways.
I would carry some spare fuel filters, a basic toolbox, and a spare set of points and condensor (if you are still using points).
Good luck!
#6
Having driven mine half that distance, my .02:
As much sound deadening as you can stick to the inside of the cab. Pretty sad to have a radio you can't hear at 65 mph due to the wind noise. Otherwise, earplugs!
Good wipers, including the linkage.
Two legs, as you will have to switch off without cruise control. The gas pedal is really fatiguing after 2 days.
Lots of gas money, though I averaged 15mpg with my 352.
I would echo what Banjo said, and not plan on driving it over the winter months. Rent a garage to store it in. Northeast road salt and humidity will ruin your truck in short order. No galvanized metal on these, so it's a losing battle once the rust starts. Don't risk it. Buy a cheap beater if you need wheels there. That's what old Escorts and Cavaliers are for.
As much sound deadening as you can stick to the inside of the cab. Pretty sad to have a radio you can't hear at 65 mph due to the wind noise. Otherwise, earplugs!
Good wipers, including the linkage.
Two legs, as you will have to switch off without cruise control. The gas pedal is really fatiguing after 2 days.
Lots of gas money, though I averaged 15mpg with my 352.
I would echo what Banjo said, and not plan on driving it over the winter months. Rent a garage to store it in. Northeast road salt and humidity will ruin your truck in short order. No galvanized metal on these, so it's a losing battle once the rust starts. Don't risk it. Buy a cheap beater if you need wheels there. That's what old Escorts and Cavaliers are for.
#7
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Sun River St. George
Posts: 3,563
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
6 Posts
Trending Topics
#8
Thanks for the tips all, will not be driving it in the winter, ive seen rusted out vechiles up there that are a sight. New master cylinder, front and rear brakes, new u-joints, new hoses and belts, and new clutch. Im bringing the truck home today from the paint shop to reassemble it, (new bed, emblems, bumpers, trim, etc).
#10
FERacing, I am concerned about the heating at speed. I don't have a shroud on my pickup and it has trouble with the temps ideling sitting still, say after 10-15 min. Get it started moving and it quickly comes back into range.
Don't know how accurate your guage is, but from my experence these ol Fords don't need a fan at over 20 mph forward. I think I would look into it before you leave.
John
Don't know how accurate your guage is, but from my experence these ol Fords don't need a fan at over 20 mph forward. I think I would look into it before you leave.
John
#11
I took my truck to Cleveland in 82 and had a trans problem with no reverse on the BW overdrive tranny . I regret taking it out with me to school . When I got out there the neighborhood was eyeballing anything with 4 good tires . Mine stood out since it was candy apple red.I had it in a parking lot for a month while I found a junkyard back home with OD trans parts.A great friend of mine fixed it and brought it 7 hours and laid on the parking lot ground saturday night putting it back in with me. Luckily I drove it home and stored it the rest of the year.
Locate good places to park it and meet some local people that can help out if you need a place to work on it. Nothing like feeling helpless after all that work. Finally let us know if you get jammed up. I think we all network pretty well and maybe able to advise/help whatever.
Have you ever heard of magnisium cloride? You will as that is what the roads get when it snows. It will make your truck a man if it can survive that stuff.
Let us know how you make out.
Wayne
Locate good places to park it and meet some local people that can help out if you need a place to work on it. Nothing like feeling helpless after all that work. Finally let us know if you get jammed up. I think we all network pretty well and maybe able to advise/help whatever.
Have you ever heard of magnisium cloride? You will as that is what the roads get when it snows. It will make your truck a man if it can survive that stuff.
Let us know how you make out.
Wayne
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
likeagoodbook
1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
2
06-13-2016 07:59 PM
PVTruck
1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
5
01-11-2016 12:03 PM
FERacing66
1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
7
05-30-2006 10:24 AM
FERacing66
FE & FT Big Block V8 (332, 352, 360, 390, 406, 410, 427, 428)
18
02-24-2004 09:16 PM