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read the bottles close. they mention they will raise them up to 4 points some will be 2 points . they don't mention each point is =.10 so if you add the amount they tell you into the given amount of fuel it can only turn 87 octane into 87.4.
okies trying to get rid of pinging with high compression wiht out just running straight racing fuel hehe. i tried prestone octane booster with no luck. has anyone ever tried mixing the racing fuel wtih the premium pump gas?
Put in a different cam to reduce your dynamic compression. I assume you have tried backing off on your timing. What type of engine is this and what are the specs and application?
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"Beam me up Scotty. There's no intelligent life down here..."
I checked your gallery... -Rework your fuel system to run E85 or Ethanol exclusively. Unfortunately even then you will have problems. You probably need 110-120+ octane fuel (R+M)/2. You could always put the engine in a trailer queen show truck. Otherwise trash the engine and write it up to experimentation and build another one with proper components and specs. The engine as built is almost useless, a classic example of "bigger is better" syndrome. -Sorry.
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"Beam me up Scotty. There's no intelligent life down here..."
Anthony351W, the stuff sold as octane booster isn't all that effective. Yes, it sometimes works, but the increase you get for the money you spend is not even close to cost effective. You could consider mixing in a gallon of xylene or toulene with 10 gallons of premium and see what happens. The octane you need isn't going to be available from a small bottle. Is racing no lead available in your area ? That would be great, but it is usually scary exspensive. You could change cams or heads or pistons, but that might be more work than you want to do right now. The E85 suggestion is probably just what your truck needs. E85 has an r+m/2 of 109, and has triple the latent heat of vapourization of gasoline. It would be very happy in a 12 to 1 engine. You need to jet the carb a bit bigger and maybe change the ignition timing. I would go 25% bigger (flow area ) and then lean down from your new starting point. one range warmer plugs and a very hot thermostat would help too. Where in Ala are you ? Is this engine a daily driver ? DinosaurFan @ work, lunchin'
It really is NOT running anywhere close to great. The compression is way to high for the fuel available today. With the high compression it has to be de-tuned with retarded timing to even run which makes it far less efficient than an engine with the proper compression ratio. The cam is also too large for efficient operation. The manifold is wrong for street operation. The carb is too large for street operation in a heavy vehicle. This combination would be OK for high RPM operation doing weekend racing in a mud pit somewhere or in a Mustang built for the dragstrip but it is all wrong for efficient operation in a heavy truck on the street. As I said b4 it is a classic example of "Bigger is Better" syndrome or something like Desktop Dyno misuse/misapplication.
I had an old FE 390 back in the late 60's with 12.5:1 and some similar specs pushing 500HP and it took 115-130 octane fuel, either Phillips Flight Fuel which was a 115 octane super premium or 130 octane Aviation fuel. Back then it did run great and was a screamer that revved like an Indy car but it only got 4-8 MPG. I would not even think of operating it today.
__________________
"Beam me up Scotty. There's no intelligent life down here..."
I checked your gallery... -Rework your fuel system to run E85 or Ethanol exclusively. Unfortunately even then you will have problems. You probably need 110-120+ octane fuel (R+M)/2. You could always put the engine in a trailer queen show truck. Otherwise trash the engine and write it up to experimentation and build another one with proper components and specs. The engine as built is almost useless, a classic example of "bigger is better" syndrome. -Sorry.
Careful.... usually anything 110 and higher is lead based.
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