Adjusting the Clutch Pedal Height
#1
Adjusting the Clutch Pedal Height
Just got my clutch and slave cylinder replaced. I bled the slave cylinder good. But the pedal is still to low for me. Is there a mechanical way adjust the clutch? Right now I need to press the pedal almost to the florr in order to shift. Any suggestions, Folks.
TIA.
TIA.
#2
#3
If the pedal goes to the floor to shift, I'd bet you have a lot of "play" at the top of the pedal, where you can push it without much resistance, before the clutch is engaged.
I had that issue when my clutch was finally getting down to it's last legs - 1/2 of my pedal travel did nothing.
The solution was to make a new clutch rod out of 1/4" round stock (steel), and machine it to match the old clutch rod, then weld on a piece of 1/4" flat and shape with a grinder, to make an "eye". The trick was to make it 1/4" longer than the stock one, which in turn moves the useful range of the pedal much higher. Like so:
When I replaced the clutch over Christmas week, obviously the clutch being new had more meat on the plates, so the pedal effected the clutch right at the top. So, I took out my homemade clutch rod and shortened it.... yes.... 1/4". Now things are back to normal.
I had that issue when my clutch was finally getting down to it's last legs - 1/2 of my pedal travel did nothing.
The solution was to make a new clutch rod out of 1/4" round stock (steel), and machine it to match the old clutch rod, then weld on a piece of 1/4" flat and shape with a grinder, to make an "eye". The trick was to make it 1/4" longer than the stock one, which in turn moves the useful range of the pedal much higher. Like so:
When I replaced the clutch over Christmas week, obviously the clutch being new had more meat on the plates, so the pedal effected the clutch right at the top. So, I took out my homemade clutch rod and shortened it.... yes.... 1/4". Now things are back to normal.
#4
#5
You can buy a new cross shaft lever arm from ford to adjust the clutch. You only get one stab at it because when you install it, it cuts new splines in the lever arm and is locked in place. It's easy enough to do, but really only needs to be done if the clutch pedal isn't returning to the stop at the fully released position.
#6
Low Clutch Pedal
Bleeding the clutch on that truck is kind of a challenge. My guess is that your clutch is not fully bled yet which is giving you a low pedal. As this is an old discussion you have probably noticed that the pedal got higher and higher each day you drove the truck.
It is important to have the front of the truck on an at least a 20 degree incline in order to bleed the master cylinder. After filling with fluid take your hand and pump the clutch pedal up and down for several minutes. Do not open the bleed screw at all. You will notice the pedal slowly getting higher and higher.
If you still need to adjust the pedal height you can take the clutch lever off the the push rod, remove the 18mm nut and wiggle the lever off and move it a tooth or two on its spline. After removing the nut I found it easiest the clamp a vice grip in the lever and wiggle it in all directions in order to loosen it. Some people try a hammer and large screw driver to pry it off but I think the vice grip way is better and won't damage the pedal bushings.
If you think you want to shorten the actual clutch push rod instead you can cut the end off and install a heim joint kit to replace the plastic clip set up. They cost about $15 online. Even though you aren't supposed to be able to remove the push rod I have by using a sleeve I made out of a car antenna that I slid down the rod shaft. The spring prongs inside the master cylinder can be pushed out of the way the the rod will come out kind of like the fuel line quick connect. This is very difficult to do.
Having said all that, I really advise that you leave everything as is and work on bleeding the master cylinder. Once you start adjusting the push rod or add a heim joint you will have a difficult task of getting the clutch pedal right while not interfering with the activation of the neutral safety switch. Good luck.
It is important to have the front of the truck on an at least a 20 degree incline in order to bleed the master cylinder. After filling with fluid take your hand and pump the clutch pedal up and down for several minutes. Do not open the bleed screw at all. You will notice the pedal slowly getting higher and higher.
If you still need to adjust the pedal height you can take the clutch lever off the the push rod, remove the 18mm nut and wiggle the lever off and move it a tooth or two on its spline. After removing the nut I found it easiest the clamp a vice grip in the lever and wiggle it in all directions in order to loosen it. Some people try a hammer and large screw driver to pry it off but I think the vice grip way is better and won't damage the pedal bushings.
If you think you want to shorten the actual clutch push rod instead you can cut the end off and install a heim joint kit to replace the plastic clip set up. They cost about $15 online. Even though you aren't supposed to be able to remove the push rod I have by using a sleeve I made out of a car antenna that I slid down the rod shaft. The spring prongs inside the master cylinder can be pushed out of the way the the rod will come out kind of like the fuel line quick connect. This is very difficult to do.
Having said all that, I really advise that you leave everything as is and work on bleeding the master cylinder. Once you start adjusting the push rod or add a heim joint you will have a difficult task of getting the clutch pedal right while not interfering with the activation of the neutral safety switch. Good luck.
#8
Fix for this worked for me
Replace the plastic bushing at the end of the slave cylinder push rod with a brass compression nut from an 1/4” DOT air fitting. (the nut that holds the tube and sleeve in place) use a small o ring secure the nut to the push rod or epoxy or something similar. Seems to give the release fork a little more push to fully release. Shifting & grinding solved.
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