89 5 liter EFI into a 64 F100
#1
89 5 liter EFI into a 64 F100
I jsut bought a 89 Grand Marquee because I needed the motor out of it. Seeing that it is EFI I was wondering if I could just do the complete swap. From what I know I may need to use a different gas tank because the fuel pump is in the gas tank for EFI or do I just need an external electric fuel pump. Also there is the issue of a return line to the gas tank. In the 64 the gas tank is behind the seat. What about the computer would it be that hard to switch that over?
Jack
Jack
#2
Since you have a donor car, you have about everything that you will need. It may be easier to mount a frame mounted EFI pump instead of relocating the fuel tank. You will have to modify the stock tank to accept the return line.
Painless wiring makes an aftermarket harness that makes the conversion easier or you can remove the original harness from the car.
I put a 351W in my 63 F100, but I used a 4bbl carb on mine. I used TD performance conversion motor mounts.
Painless wiring makes an aftermarket harness that makes the conversion easier or you can remove the original harness from the car.
I put a 351W in my 63 F100, but I used a 4bbl carb on mine. I used TD performance conversion motor mounts.
#3
#5
I would probably need to braze a steel nozzel on to the tank somewhere. Are those frame mounted fuel pumps after market available at part stores? Is the brain box on the 89 pretty basic? I already have a 5.0 in the truck. I cut the front axle out and welded a 77 4x4 axle and towers in and used the power steering pump and alternator from a simular 89 grand marquee. So now I have disc brakes and power steering. I was able to use the standard motor mounts with a bit of fabrication. Currently I have a 600 edlebrock carb and edlebrock intake. I am wondering if the brain box just takes a hot wire from the ignition?
Thanks.
Jack
Thanks.
Jack
#7
Any idea if those brain boxes run anything else but the EFI and other engine operations. I think if I use the old engine harness I should be in good shape. On the current engine I have an Excel coil and electronic ignition on it. I wonder if I will be able to splice into my current ignition switch? I think the big yellow wire on it is the hot one.
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#8
The factory computer runs the entire engine management system, fuel and spark. If you don't hook up the factory distributor, the computer will freak out. If the car had an electronically controlled transmission, the computer runs that too, and likewise will throw a fit if it's not hooked up.
#9
#10
The 89 does not use the ECM to shift. It uses a VSS (vehicle speed sensor)for the cruise control.
You will need a TFI distributor (the one in the 89), or the ECM will not see a firing signal and will not keep the fuel pump running or the injectors firing after start-up.
The ECM reads EGR position to adjust the fuel mixture accordingly. It also controls the a/c clutch, smog pump solenoids (not required if you don't want them) and some vehicles use a pressure switch in the P/S line to keep the idle from dropping when the wheel is turned.
You will need a TFI distributor (the one in the 89), or the ECM will not see a firing signal and will not keep the fuel pump running or the injectors firing after start-up.
The ECM reads EGR position to adjust the fuel mixture accordingly. It also controls the a/c clutch, smog pump solenoids (not required if you don't want them) and some vehicles use a pressure switch in the P/S line to keep the idle from dropping when the wheel is turned.
#11
#14
I'm using an external EFI pump from a E series van which is frame mounted. I took the entire fuel pump, filter, and bracket assy. This made it easy to mount to the frame. You will need a pusher pump to feed the EFI pump. I used a carter electric (6-9 psi). Mount the pusher pump as close to the fuel tank as possible. If you want to save money, you only have to buy hi-pressure fuel injection line between the hi-pressure EFI pump and the fuel rail. The return side can be regular fuel line.
You can run your return line to the vent pipe that runs along side of your filler neck pipe if you have one. If you do, then just fab a tee to it then connect your return. If it's removeable then you won't have to weld directly to the tank. Try to angle your tee so fuel will flow in the direction of the tank, not the cap.
You can run your return line to the vent pipe that runs along side of your filler neck pipe if you have one. If you do, then just fab a tee to it then connect your return. If it's removeable then you won't have to weld directly to the tank. Try to angle your tee so fuel will flow in the direction of the tank, not the cap.
#15