I have a leak on my rear main seal, I also hear valve covers are prone to leaks from previous threads.What other ares are prone to problems I am going to rebuild in the future and could use your knowledge.

 

Front/Rear main seals, Timing cover, Valve Covers / intake, Oil Pan gasket, and some have even had issues with the 90-degree oil filter-to-engine block adapter. These are all pretty much typical Ford oil leak issue areas as far as I can remember.

The key in the process of your rebuild is to use quality gaskets / seals and to not overtorque anything, etc. Fel-Pro is usally the most common choice, but there are others out there.

Hope this helps.

 

What isnt leaking on this engine?

wow, maybe thats why my engine is covered in oil.

And i just got done with those darn valve covers too!

 

Mine doesn't leak oil out of the intake, that's about it. LOL

 

So when did you say you were going to get a .50 cal machine gun and start firing at the removed engine, OSin? hehehehe.

 

LOL, you know what? I was thinking that maybe I should see how bad you have to beat it to finally kill it. Like maybe drain the oil and go offroading and see how much abuse it would take before she locked up or blew. The turbo engine is pulled but spring got me in the mood to work on the house and there went all my play money. Damn priorities! LMAO, I'll have to see what you guys think should be done to kill it when I'm ready.

 

Dont change the oil for 3,001 miles, that is usally the downfall of this motor. LOL

Or run it off 130 octane..... thats how i blew up a 6hp gokart motor LOL

Try NOS!!! lmao, lets see how it handles with a 200hp wet shot.

 

Actually, from my experience (and some of my wife's bad habits) with the old beater BII with the 2.9.... we've TRIED to kill it (including my running the engine up to the redline or to the rev limiter 'stop' in 1st & 2nd -- sometimes 3rd several times... OH, and not to mention when it had coolant leaks that didn't overheat or kill it...) and it still comes back for more. Although there are many quirks to these engines, they're pretty tough IMO. I'm wondering by some of the things I've seen... whether or not the original owner had already swapped out the heads... I may have to investigate that further down the road -- as I don't recall ANY cracks in them when I had the covers off to replace the gaskets. *shrug*

 

I feel lucky on the leaks compared to some of you guys.

 

I forgot to put this in my previous post...

I've actually let my '87 XLT go probably around 6 or 7,000 miles between oil changes and didn't notice any 'damage'. Of course, it was either one or two oil changes after that when I decided to flush the engine really good. I'm still trying to locate info on the (self-oiling?) hollow pushrods/rocker arms that someone had mentioned in another thread. I'm wondering if they were referring to the Competition Cams' High-energy lifters/pushrods/rocker arms for the 2.8 -- which are basically the exact same parts, at least the OEM replacements for all except the lifters are the same part #'s.

Unfortunately, I have to turn my attention elsewhere again on this vehicle. I am going to take it in to the shop and have them check out the front suspension / alignment. I am thinking the lower ball joints are getting pretty worn -- if not both upper and lower. I do know that at times the camber is either positive or negative (more than it should be) depending on whether or not it's parked uphill or downhill or even on a level surface.... (this is why I hate the twin I-beam/twin traction beam front axles/suspensions on Fords).

 

Yeh, i was kidding about the oil thing...ive heard that this motor had some pretty bad oil flow issues if not heavly maintained, (ask osin)...

Im changing the oil on mine every 3,000 miles. (just to be safe)

Also the whole headcracking thing only occurs if you over heat the motor. So dont worry unless youve overheated it.

I do see alot of that "v formation" on these bronco II's, i seems like some factory design that needs certian attendtion too to make it correct. My bronco II's alinement is f**ked up as well, for some reason the left wheel wares down unevenly on the tire. My dads old bronco II actually broke a ball joint from skiding on ice, then gripping on pavement( we didnt really "maintain" that one too well, which is most likley how it broke like that) and the steering was always off even after we fixed it.

But through and trough i LOVE my bronco II. You know how it is with your 1st car and all. I just got done installing a dual exhuast on it, and i think it sounds/looks awesome. Now i need to get bodywork/paint done to it, maybe fender flares for some slightly bigger tires (31's tops) and that cool look. And a killer sound system, and also a light bar on the roof. I gots big plans and no money!!!

 

The oil level sensor can leak a significant amount of oil and it's possible that this could be mistaken for a rear main seal leak seeing as it's on the side of the oil pan.

At 175,000 miles my BII was leaking far more oil out of the level sensor than it was leaking out of the rear main seal, but I replaced the latter when I replaced the clutch.