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Take that chain and pitch it if its been tapered with, no ifs and or butts , go get a new one or even a used one from someone that sells them and knows about them, independant tool rental stores area very good place to buy from. they can also sharpen them and show you how do it your self
Wolf here a PDF file from stihl with lots of info on chains
also ensure your oiling system is working , that will prolong the life of the chain
To test the oiling system, hold the saw 2-3" above a white piece of paper and rev the saw a few times. If your saw has a manual chain oil control, depress the oil lever while revving the saw. You should see a light mist of oil fly on the piece of paper. If oil is not dispensed during this test, the oiling system is not working properly.
Make sure the oil reservoir is full.
Remove the chain and check the oil passages on the guide bar. If the guide bar is dirty, clean it with a shop rag.
Check the oil outlets located near the clutch and sprocket assembly, behind the guide bar mounts. After use, this area is often caked with sawdust and chain oil. A careful cleaning usually restores the oiling system's performance
When i was down south helping out during Katrina , we took with us over 100 chains for six chain saws, I was changing blades about once an hour because the trees we were cutting had were salt encrusted from the seawater, and would dull a chain in a blink of an eye , and they would start kicking back during cutting.
We had wood heat, I spent 10 years heating with a wood stove, I've cut a lot of wood, I know how to sharpen a chain, and can tell when to change it, I always tore it down after a day of cutting to clean it out too.
I always replace a chain if its streching. I sold firewood for yrs. I kept several chains so I coulds swap if one got dull during a days work. I sharpened my own but I liked to have them shop filed every third sharpening.
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