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Old 04-12-2006, 01:26 AM
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Finishing up

Radius arm bushings were shot, one was busted so bad, it was ready to fall out, you could feel the axle shifting while driving. Wife did them today, pretty self explanitory then, was bad, had to pull the axle forward on one side. Thank god it had drop down brackets due to the lift, no rivots, I gave her the impact and she got all the bolts out.
So far, new steering pump and radius arm bushings for the front, will need a drag and cross link next, the ends are worn and one is bent, Fords made the ends into the rods. I'd love to go with a heavy threaded rod and replaceable tie rod ends, for reason of, replaceable ends. Should drive smooth and track right, will put a damper back on later.
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Old 04-12-2006, 01:38 AM
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I forgot to mention, I have a pair of PIAA 80 series, need a wiring harnes, found they sell for $350 new, so I plan to mount them on the truck. These are those monsters you see on the desert racers, about 8" or 9" diameter, dual beam, they are 100 watt low, 135 watt high. I'm going to check on the wiring harness at a aftermarket place, PIAA won't sell to individuals, if it's too high, I'll make my own, will need some heavy relays.
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Old 04-12-2006, 08:43 AM
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Awesome. I love when things start to finish up (till things break). On your front end did you put steering stabilizers on there? Just curious. Awesome on the lights. Let me know if you need help on getting that hardness built I gots catalogs out the *** for that kinda stuff.
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Old 04-12-2006, 01:30 PM
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135 watts divided by 12 volts is 11.5 amps

You should be easily able to run those lights with a single 30 amp relay, ten guage wire, a 20 amp fuse, and a switch in the dash.

Fuse blocks and all the above can be had from many parts stores.


I'll never forget the radius arm bushings on my F250! I had to drop one of the I-beams to get enough slack to install the right hand side...
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Old 04-12-2006, 02:20 PM
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Stabilizers are for bump steer caused by potholes, everyone adds them for poor steering due to worn parts, mine is currently without. It drove pretty good without them and the 35's, even with the busted bushings and bent drag, but I'll slowly get parts to correct it all. Going to put the one good Skyjacker damper on it, it's from the dual setup, the other is siezed up, binds the steering.
I want the correct harness and relay for the lights, but will make my own if need be, will want another alternator too.

The radius arm brackets were replaced with a drop set from the lift, no rivots, so they could be removed.
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Old 04-12-2006, 09:38 PM
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If you really want a "BULLDOG" alternator, see if you can salvage one out of an emergency vehicle such as a paramedic truck or police car.

Failing that (and this advice came to me from Papa Pondscum hisself, down there in the flatlands of Florida) you can take a 100 AMP alternator to a reputable rewind shop and get it kitted up to a 180 AMP alternator...

Follow their recommendations as to correct voltage regulators.

I don't recommend the 100 amp (supposedly) alts out of taurus station wagons. They kill more batteries than they charge.
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Old 04-12-2006, 09:49 PM
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Know all about rewinds, had the 130 in my 99 done a few years ago, have dual batteries, power side doors, wheelchair lift, 6 way power seat base, a Jensen 400x4, RF 800x2, and RF 500x2, no headlamp dimming problems when all are in use.
If I upgrade, it'll probably be using an older GM SI alt, idiot proof and rarely ever fail, looked on a site about how to alter ones internals for using as a welder, haters of GM alts, try it with a Motorcraft.
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Old 04-12-2006, 11:38 PM
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In that case - when I need alt advice, I'm coming to YOU!!!
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Old 04-12-2006, 11:46 PM
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Basically it wires it full bore, disables the regulator, makes a stick welder for light duty or off road repairs.
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Old 04-13-2006, 01:52 AM
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Nope - not the ones I know.

Heavy duty windings, and a reg that takes it into account.
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Old 04-13-2006, 01:52 AM
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