Doesnt want to start
#31
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Silver Lake Dunes, MI
Posts: 12,835
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
hey i just pulled the hpop reservior off my 95 this week and that plug in the top to check the level is actually a 1/4" square drive so if you have a chance check that in the morning. you will need to take the plastic cover off to access it. and why are you going to replace the injectors? if they are not giving you any problem i would replace them. i don't think they are the issue with your starting but thats alot of money to just throw at it. it your truck and your money so do what you want i just wouldn't do it unless i needed to (or i wanted more HP!!!!)
#34
#36
Just finished testing stuff out, here you go....
HPOP res. was full, maybe 1/2 inch from the top.
replaced GPR, napa exchanged it.
tested all GPs and they were all in the 1-3 ohms range.
Jumped in the truck to start it like I always have and nothin! same thing its been doing.
I then started pulling fuses under the hood (they all tested fine) and notcied they were corroded, so I cleaned them up and reinstalled them. I also switched the relays around (two outer ones and two inner ones). Got back in the truck and fired it right up. I will have to check it tommorrow morning to see if any of this changed anything.
I was going to have the dealership do a full diagnosis test, but they were too busy today. They said to charge up the batteries before I start it in the morning. They also thought it might have a weak alternator (never been replaced)????? Any more input?
HPOP res. was full, maybe 1/2 inch from the top.
replaced GPR, napa exchanged it.
tested all GPs and they were all in the 1-3 ohms range.
Jumped in the truck to start it like I always have and nothin! same thing its been doing.
I then started pulling fuses under the hood (they all tested fine) and notcied they were corroded, so I cleaned them up and reinstalled them. I also switched the relays around (two outer ones and two inner ones). Got back in the truck and fired it right up. I will have to check it tommorrow morning to see if any of this changed anything.
I was going to have the dealership do a full diagnosis test, but they were too busy today. They said to charge up the batteries before I start it in the morning. They also thought it might have a weak alternator (never been replaced)????? Any more input?
#37
Hold on to that alternator
That should have the 3g alternator. They are great! Even when they stop working it usually just needs the regulator with new brushes. You can pull them out the back with a torx driver. The two corner torx screws pull the unit off the alternator and the center one changes the brushes after it's off the alternator. I think you can get the regulator and brushes for $35. Not sure about getting just the brushes. It's really easy to check them. Pull the unit off the alternator. The brushes new are about 3/4 inch long. When they wear down to the holes it's time to replace them. These alternators were too good. They never wore out so Ford changed to the new style alternator which has built in wear-out factor.
#38
Foreman read all the posts with great interest. MY truck just started doing the exact samething this week. Mine is also half way between add and full on oil stick due for change in 500 miles still have winter weight oil in it, but also starts hard first thing in morning then perfect all day from them on. Started all winter from -10 and teens --now that it is warmer at 30-40 in morn it won't go. I changed GP relay in December. Let us know what you find and so will I ...
#39
I have been cycling my glow plugs 2 times before I start it, and with it only in the 60's at night, its getting kinda annoying. I read on tds where a similar problem was fixed by replacing the IPC. That might be my next step to fix this. I might also get a new IPR to see if that fixes my rough idle when it warms up. Someone point me (and the many others) in the right direction and tell me if I should even replace those parts. At least now I am not smoking out the entire block when I start it up. So I think I am making some progress. Thanks
#40
#41
#42
You said white smoke right? White smoke is bad, means your truck is trying to burn coolant. Blue smoke is bad too but during prolonged cranking means it's not burning her fuel. Black smoke means it's working hard which isn't too bad.
Again I can't stress enough to check the glow plugs monthly and replace every 6 months. A year since new glow plugs? I bet you a box of good canadian beer if you change all the glow plugs she'll fire right up. Keep on eye on that white smoke issue,if it smells sweet you'll need more than hex head wrenches.
Again I can't stress enough to check the glow plugs monthly and replace every 6 months. A year since new glow plugs? I bet you a box of good canadian beer if you change all the glow plugs she'll fire right up. Keep on eye on that white smoke issue,if it smells sweet you'll need more than hex head wrenches.
#43
#44
I've worked on a few psd with cold start issues. I liked the older models with the glow plugs on the outside of the head. I'm serious - every six months my 97 1 ton gets new gp's. I fought with it when I first bought it,trying to chace down cold start issues till i finally replaced the gps. It got so bad that it would'nt start in the summer. Up here in Canada it's cold even in the summer so a good set of gps is a must. I say canadian beer but i drink coors...go figure.
#45
Thats why my situation is so wierd, the temp is 70-80 degrees. You could be right about the GPs, but the original ones had like 180,000 miles on them and with some of them not working it would still fire right up. The ones on it now worked great up untill it cut out on me on the highway . The next day it would not fire up like it usually did. I am still not sure what direction to turn and where to start. If I take it to a dealership it will be at least $500, and they might not even fix anything. I can live with turning the key on for a couple of minutes before I start it (but it needs to be fixed)