lol. I don't know where the rest of the picture is. I still don't see how leaving the truck running can have any correlation with the ignition switch after 4 weeks worth of delivering. (and thats only 3 days a week, 5 hours per day.. and i hardly even drive the truck for delivering)

I took the wheels of and the problem seems to have magically fixed itself. Not hanging up anymore, and it was only the drivers side so maybe it was the caliper and not the emergency brake assembly?? This is annoying as no one around here seems to be able to do work correctly anymore, always a problem with it. My brakes feel spongy after the brake job.

Sorry i flipped out on you BillyBob, its just been a long couple of days and the smart alec comment sent me off, my fault i apologize.

 

1.) The ignition could go out at 10,000 miles, it is not a matter of the miles, its a matter of how many times you turn your truck on and off. i.e. i could sit in my driveway and turn my turck on and off all day and the ignition wouold go out alot quicker than me driven it.

 

if your neutral safety switch gets out of adjustment (it does happen) it wont start unless you jump the solenoid. Your ignition is ok or it wouldnt start at all. nothing wrong with the starter, because it does start. If you drive through water, or live somewhere they use chemicals for snow removal(maryland) emergency brake cables can corrode and hang up. all the problems you have mentioned do happen occasionally.

 

The key chime seems to be kind of failing too, I don't know if it has anything to do with it. How would i go about fixing the neutral safety switch?

 

the ignition switch is actually by your knee on the steering column. if i remember, there is 2 screws to loosen and adjust the switch. There also has been issues with the lock cylinder and tumblers hanging up. if you never have been into a steering column, it might pay you to take it to your favorite mechanic. There is a lot of small parts involved

 

Is the neutral safety switch part of the ignition? Or is it that thing that won't let you start it unless its in park or neutral?

 

youve got a switch on the side of the trans as well(mlp sensor). from what you say, I think I would suspect the ignition switch or the lock cyl and tumblers "the key chime". The ignition switch does most of the work of the " neutral safety switch". If the lock cyl and tumblers were hanging up, that could be the problem with both the key chime and the starting problem.

 

Alright, thanks.

This warrantee is really coming in handy if its the ignition switch.

 

i am new to this site how do i get started please ?

 

need help with this here post. how do i get started to posting ?

 

Welcome aboard 97umo2006

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Have fun

 

Try your spare key, it could be the PATS system not recognizing your key. This would cause it not to crank.

If you just had the brakes done, they could have installed something wrong, but it sounds like you may have a stuck caliper if it has rear disk, or the shoes are adjusted too tight if drums. You didn't say what year or type of truck that you have.

 

Its a 2000 f150 4x4 (in my signature for future reference )

We already tried the spare key, no dice.
Now the front end is popping and squeaking again, the brakes are squeaking. And i have to start it with a screw driver. woohoo.

 

If I were you i'd probably take it to a ford dealership and have them tell me EVERYTHING that was wrong with it and get an estimate. If you dont like those results, ty to buy the parts yourself and find some guides on the internet and put those babies in.

 

Ok, so it doesn't want to go into 4 wheel low. For it to go into 4 wheel low it has to be in neutral and your foot on the brake. So I'm thinking that some part its not seeing the gearshift lever move. It doesn't know what gear i'm in. Also the reason why it won't start probably.