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Could we have a sticky for common mods?

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  #16  
Old 03-31-2006, 12:17 AM
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Very nice. Great start. Keep them coming.
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  #17  
Old 03-31-2006, 12:21 AM
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Wicked Wheel
http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/i...tallation.html
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  #18  
Old 03-31-2006, 12:37 AM
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externally regulated fuel/air bleed mod
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=260173
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=446151

a little gauge help
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/sh...ghlight=gauges

wicked wheel w/o removing turbo
http://www.blackclouddiesel.com/Tech...on%20Guide.pdf

exhaust break
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=268610

wastegate
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/sh...ght=waste+gate
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  #19  
Old 03-31-2006, 07:20 AM
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I'll post some Modification links and info, as well as some General and Technical info that can be helpful...

Gauge Installation Walkthroughs:
http://www.dieselmanor.com/diy/PSD3-...D3gauge-p1.htm
http://www.gts-motorsports.com/gaugemountinst.html
http://www.smokyvalley.com/gauge_install.htm

Keep Overhead console from dimming when headlights/parking lights are turned on:
http://www.billgart.com/l.html#alwaysbright

Wicked Wheel Installation (turbo off the truck):
http://dieselsite.com/wwinst.pdf

Getting rid of the Clunk when putting truck in gear:
(greasing the rear driveshaft slip joint)
http://www.eurekaboy.com/f250/slipjoint.htm

Harpoon Mod:
If you do this, you will need a $20 tubing cutter. This makes cutting the tube a snap. You want to also cut the fuel inlet tube as it extends down into the tank.
The way I did it:
1. Jack the left rear axel up, put a 2 ton jack stand under it.
2. Remove the left rear tire. This makes getting to the hoses a lot
easier.
3. Put 2 jacks under the tank, front and year.
4. Remove the 3 screws securing the fill neck to the fender.
5. Loosen the hose clamps at the filler neck and vent tube.
6. Remove the filler neck.
7. Loosen and remove tank retention straps.
8. Slowly lower tank as evenly as possible
9. Unhook the two vapor vent lines (not clamped).
10. Lower the tank until it is on the ground being careful that the fuel
lines and sending unit cable are not damaged.
11. With a large strap wrench ( I modified mine by substituting a length
of fan belt) remove the large (6” in diameter) retaining nut holding the module containing the fuel pickup and the fuel gage sending unit.
12. Remove and tie this assembly out of the way in a safe place(I tied
mine to the drive shaft). Leave the lines hooked up.
13. Carefully slide the tank through the opening at the left rear wheel
if you have running boards.
14. Remove all diesel fuel by dipping with a dipper made from a milk
carton or bottle. Put into a clean fuel container.
15. With a ratcheting PVC Pipe cutter, reaching inside the tank cut the
vent tube within 1” of the top of the tank.
16. Reaching inside the tank, Cut off all but 1" from the vent line..
Remove the scraps.
17. Place the tank under the truck 6” to the left of where the tank
goes.
18. Install the fuel pickup and sending unit module. Tighten retaining
ring with strap wrench.
19. Place the jacks under the tank.
20. Carefully raise the tank, feeding the lines over the frame, watching
the fuel module lines for trouble.
21. At this time connect the vapor vent lines that plug into the tank,
front and rear. These have no clamps, just push fit.
22. Jack the tank all the way up in the rear.
23. Install the rear strap.
24. Move the front and move the tank around to suit your purpose make
sure both hoses are in position.
25. Jack up tank in front to the top and install front strap.
26. Install hoses to filler neck.
27. Install three small screws in the filler neck.
28. Remove jacks from tank.
29. Jack up the axel, install the tire and remove the Jack stand.
30. Fill the tank with the diesel you removed.
-Choctaw Bob on FTE

Harpoon Mod link:
http://65.121.190.196/diesel/intank/

SteveRacer Mod:
http://www.ssdiv.com/fogfix.html

7.3L PSD "bible"
http://www.nav-international.com.br/...rStroke/hs.asp

Replacing Superduty Ball Joints:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=354091

CPS Issues:
http://www.forgotton.net/mods/cps.html


Tightening the Parking Brake:
post by SmokeyWren on TDS

The parking brake is an old-fashioned drum brake up inside the rear rotors. It's called a "drum-in-hat" rotor.

The only adjustment available is to adjust the drum brake shoes.

Look on the back side of the hub and you'll see a rubber plug. Remove that plug and look inside and you'll see the "star adjuster wheel". Turn that star adjuster until it's tight, then back off only until the wheel will rotate freely.

Shadetree mechanics can "get by" using a flat-blade screwdriver to turn the star adjuster. But it's fairly easy to do with a special brake adjusting tool - available for only a couple of bucks from almost any auto parts store.

Here are the words from the workshop manual:

Quote:
Parking Brake Shoe and Lining Adjustment
• Raise and support the vehicle.
• Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
• Remove the brake adjusting hole cover from the backing plate.
• Turn the brake adjuster screw to expand the parking brake shoe and linings until they drag against the drum-in-hat rotor.
• Back off the brake adjuster screw until no drag is evident.


Amount of Fuel Burned when Idling:
- at idle of 650-670 rpm, engine consumes about 1 1/3 (1.33) quarts per hour, or about 1/3 gallons per hour.
- at idle of 1200 rpm, engine consumes about 2 3/4 (2.75) quarts per hour, or a little over 2/3 gallons per hour.
info credited to WayneT at TDS

ESOF information:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=436756

Technical Articles from Diesel Innovations:
http://www.dieselinnovations.com/di.php?page=techinfo

Last edited by ryaneverk2; 03-31-2006 at 07:29 AM.
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  #20  
Old 03-31-2006, 10:50 AM
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Ryanverk that's a great contribution you have going there.
But Scott (Cookie88) said in an earlier post in this thread that we are not going to use any links from competing websites for this particular thread.
I need to (very politely) request that you edit your post if you have not gone past the time limit. If your "edit" button is no longer visible at the bottom of your post, please copy and paste your entire post to a word processor and clean out the competing websites, send it to me as a PM and I will be glad to paste it back in for you.
Otherwise Scott or I will be forced to go in and clean it out for you. We don't really want to have to do that because it will subtract from your creativity.
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  #21  
Old 03-31-2006, 10:51 AM
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Also all you other folks who are getting ready to contribute to this thread, this is a reminder of that special rule for this thread.
No competing website links, OK.
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  #22  
Old 04-03-2006, 06:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
Also all you other folks who are getting ready to contribute to this thread, this is a reminder of that special rule for this thread.
No competing website links, OK.
So far it looks as if Ryaneverks post conforms to Cookie88's request. The competing website info was typed in with credit given to the originator of the info, there is no actual "link" to the competing website. Please explain the error. Looks to me Ryaneverk did an excellent job with his post contents. Kudos to Ryaneverk!
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  #23  
Old 04-04-2006, 01:27 AM
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I was particularly interested in Ryaneverks 7.3 psd bible link but get nothing but the index/menu on it. Is it my sheen or is this not working?
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  #24  
Old 04-04-2006, 03:20 AM
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When I click the link I get taken to an index/table of contents type thing, also. Click any of those links and they'll open to more choices, and then click one of them and it'll take you to the content or "pages," if you will. I found the link to this "7.3 Bible" on another forums, and saved it for future reference.
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  #25  
Old 04-04-2006, 06:02 AM
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i left you some rep. points Ryan. nice job.
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  #26  
Old 04-04-2006, 07:11 PM
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Thanks, Kris.

(back at ya)
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  #27  
Old 04-05-2006, 08:15 AM
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Ryaneverk you can leave your post as is.
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  #28  
Old 04-05-2006, 08:19 AM
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Hydralic Bottle Jack vs. OEM Screw Jack

Common or not so Common but well worth it, replace the stock screw jack with a 6 or 8 ton bottle jack. The 6 ton fits the same spot as OEM jack. If you have ever had to use the screw jack, you already know what I am talking about, 15 bucks or so at Wally world can save a whole lot of headache.
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  #29  
Old 04-05-2006, 11:03 AM
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This is great!!!

Gentleperson's

As a new (had it for 2 weeks) 01' F250 Powerstroke owner I just want to thank you for this post. This is quite easily the best single post for information that I have encountered while lurking at this site for the last 1/2 year or so. I have been reading through endless amounts of search threads with very little actual instructions on how to accomplish these mods. This site is so encompassing that it is all most impossible to find a particular thread that is relevant, even when refining the search to a certain forum. I searched multiple times before I found a good link to installing backup lights, the links posted by hink10, GeoffNJ, and ryaneverk2 are so very much appreciated. I am hoping that this thread can continue with links to some of the more informative posts or links that tell you how to accomplish these mods specifically with these Powerstroke Trucks. Thank you very very much

- VTX1800C
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  #30  
Old 04-05-2006, 05:19 PM
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Hey, glad we could all help, VTX. Welcome to FTE, and stick around for a while!

I'm going to look through my bag of goodies and see if I can come up with another post with some more links and such.
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