This isn't exactly fort a ranger, its for my tempo. Its a '94 and has the 2.3 and when I'm driving as long as i'm moving my temp guage stays down but when I sit still it starts to rise. Then when I start moving again the temp guage goes back down. Is this the water pump or thermostat?

 

is the top hose warm when the vehicle is warm

Matt

 

When you idle, there is little cool air flow coming into the engine compartment. This is normal. Pavement is hot, warm air rise, warm air is pushed around the engine compartment by the fan, then temp rises until you move again.

 

shouldnt even be able to tell the diff sitting still tho

MAtt

 

When I'm driving its at C as soon as I stop it goes 3/4 of the way up the guage almost to H. Usually it goes to almost the middle when I stop.

 

u should get a guage that reads temp then we can talk. get an aftermarket one at any store, they are easy to install too. also, make sure all fluids are full

Matt

 

Details, details, details. Generally, if it is overheating at idle, it is the pump. If it overheats while cooking down the road, it is the radiator.
The idle BTUh is a lot less, so the rad can dump it easily. OTOH, the road speed BTUh is a lot more, so the rad has a lot more to do. If both are bad, well... you figure it out.
tom

 

If you do get an aftermarket temperature gauge, I suggest getting a good one, like an Autometer. Recently I checked three gauges for accuracy, a noname, a Sunpro, and Autometer. The first two were off, one 20 degrees too hot and the other 15 degrees too cool. Autometer was correct.

 

It has a new radiator and they guy I bought the car from claimed it had a new stat. Where can I get an autometer temp guage and what should the reading be? Oh one more thing do I get a mechanical or an electical guage?

 

You can order one of the round Autometer gauges at Autozone, Summit, or other places. I think they are available in three or four, maybe more different styles. White face, black face, digital, analog, ultralite, etc. I just got a white face, round, analog, something like 2 1/16 inch diameter gauge. They are only about $10 more or so than the Sunpro that Autozone carries in stock. Get an electrical unit. The sender is included.
I am not familiar with your engine, but certainly it should be above 180 degrees, and I would think below 205.

 

If it's had mainly water for cooling, I would pull the water pump. I've seen them rust off the impellers. Another problem is the impeller gets loose from the shaft and does'nt turn as fast as it should. Another thing you can do is to back flush the system. Don't back flush into the radiator. Do the engine and radiator seperatley.
Many factors affect where the worse cooling occurs.
Water flow speed, if too fast will not allow the heat to be pulled by the radiator.
Air flow thru the rad is important, at an idle only the fan is moving the air. Above approx 40 mph, you don't need a fan. If all you did was start up, jump on the express and then get off and park, you'd never miss it. There is two factors to air flow, one is the opening for entering and the other is the ability of the passed thru air to escape. Engine swaps that can become a problem.