GE appliance motor wiring
#1
GE appliance motor wiring
Thanks to Tom (TJC Transport) I had a great afternoon of shooting the breeze, dissecting a washer for it's motor, pulley, clutch and transmission, and the pleasure of saturating his truck and my driveway with some kind of non-smelly gearcase oil!
Anyway, when I leeched the motor out of the washer, I snagged about 3' of wiring, but didn't take it all the way up to the switches.
So, I guess I'm in need of a wiring diagram of some kind. I'm hoping one of you folks might be familar with these type of motors.
It's a 1/2" HP, 1725 RPM "square" GE motor, part number #5KH42DT748. I googled for the part number, no hits. Tried a variety of combinations of washer motor, ge washer motor, ge washer 5KH and didn't come up with anything, which suprised me.
It has five wires coming out of it.
Light Blue, Orange, White, Black and Yellow.
Might anyone know what goes where?
The blue and orange wires go to what looks like a choke - a bakelight plastic thing with thick magnet wire wrapped around it. Off the other two terminals there are a green and a pinkish wire that follows the white, black and yellow wires about 2", and that's where I cut it.
There are other wires in the bundle also, but they are for the clutch which I tested and got working no problem.
Thanks in advance!
Anyway, when I leeched the motor out of the washer, I snagged about 3' of wiring, but didn't take it all the way up to the switches.
So, I guess I'm in need of a wiring diagram of some kind. I'm hoping one of you folks might be familar with these type of motors.
It's a 1/2" HP, 1725 RPM "square" GE motor, part number #5KH42DT748. I googled for the part number, no hits. Tried a variety of combinations of washer motor, ge washer motor, ge washer 5KH and didn't come up with anything, which suprised me.
It has five wires coming out of it.
Light Blue, Orange, White, Black and Yellow.
Might anyone know what goes where?
The blue and orange wires go to what looks like a choke - a bakelight plastic thing with thick magnet wire wrapped around it. Off the other two terminals there are a green and a pinkish wire that follows the white, black and yellow wires about 2", and that's where I cut it.
There are other wires in the bundle also, but they are for the clutch which I tested and got working no problem.
Thanks in advance!
#5
#6
Four appliance stores, four places that would only offer my a replacement motor.
I made a "motor test jig" which has some switches and a 200W light bulb in series with the hot, just in chase I shorted something by guessing what the wires do.
Blue/Yellow - drives motor
White/Orange - starts motor
The white/orange apparently can only be touched across 120V for a fraction of a second as I can hear crackling in the motor. I'll have to investigate more how these things are wired, but at least I know that four of the wires actually do something.
Not sure what the black wire is for - it's not ground, and it's apparently not connected to any of the other wires.
Well, that was a waste of 3 hours of my time lmao. Well, the 3 hours included breaking the pin that holds the clutch on, and having to drill it out, beat it out, and finally out of frustration, bandsawing the clutch off
I made a "motor test jig" which has some switches and a 200W light bulb in series with the hot, just in chase I shorted something by guessing what the wires do.
Blue/Yellow - drives motor
White/Orange - starts motor
The white/orange apparently can only be touched across 120V for a fraction of a second as I can hear crackling in the motor. I'll have to investigate more how these things are wired, but at least I know that four of the wires actually do something.
Not sure what the black wire is for - it's not ground, and it's apparently not connected to any of the other wires.
Well, that was a waste of 3 hours of my time lmao. Well, the 3 hours included breaking the pin that holds the clutch on, and having to drill it out, beat it out, and finally out of frustration, bandsawing the clutch off
#7
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well, if you want the wiring diagram, it is about 55 ft up, in the left pile in the rear of beacon's south amboy yard.
oh and by the way, we took apart the wrong machine. the one we took apart was the one with the burnt out motor. we were supposed to take the one in the front of the truck apart.
just kiddin
oh and by the way, we took apart the wrong machine. the one we took apart was the one with the burnt out motor. we were supposed to take the one in the front of the truck apart.
just kiddin
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#8
Originally Posted by tjc transport
well, if you want the wiring diagram, it is about 55 ft up, in the left pile in the rear of beacon's south amboy yard.
I got it working. Not sure if it's working correctly, but it spins on it's own. Tonight, I'm going to see if I can reverse it. If so, that's good. If not, I have to make an extra gear, spindle, and lever down the road.
Originally Posted by tjc transport
oh and by the way, we took apart the wrong machine. the one we took apart was the one with the burnt out motor. we were supposed to take the one in the front of the truck apart.
LMAO. Wise-***!
just kiddin
LMAO. Wise-***!
just kiddin
#9
Most of them are reversible. That is how they get the extra functions like agitate -vs- spin etc.
I use one of those motors to power an old York compressor out of an old Ford. It has worked for 25 years as a vacuum pump and to fill tires and blow dirt off things around the shop. I used part of the washing machine motor mount for a base. I still use it downstairs in the basement shop even tho I have another compressor.
I use one of those motors to power an old York compressor out of an old Ford. It has worked for 25 years as a vacuum pump and to fill tires and blow dirt off things around the shop. I used part of the washing machine motor mount for a base. I still use it downstairs in the basement shop even tho I have another compressor.
#10
#11
Turns out to be totally reversable.
The "trick" is to leave the run windings wired to the mains, and reverse the start winding to switch directly.
Nothing a momentary DPDT toggle can't solve. Tested it today, and it now spins in both directions!
So today I installed a pulley on it, and measured it up to make the mount. Fun stuff, I know
The "trick" is to leave the run windings wired to the mains, and reverse the start winding to switch directly.
Nothing a momentary DPDT toggle can't solve. Tested it today, and it now spins in both directions!
So today I installed a pulley on it, and measured it up to make the mount. Fun stuff, I know
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