i put in the new oem 6 way electromechanical valve and now it seems to be reading tanks correctly and properly routing fuel. Problem solved... Now I need to figure out of my clutch slipping means I need a new clutch or if there is something less expensive that can be considered.... thanks again.

 

Glad to hear you got it solved. My gauge mysteriously started reading again all by itself after I filled the tank plum full of gas. I'm curious to see what happens after driving it awhile. Thinking maybe there might be a problem with the float or something.

 

hey guys i have to rack your brain,

1989 Ford F-250 351W ZF-5 4X4 Dual Tanks

Both pumps in the tanks are working. High pres. pump is working front sending unit might be bad driving down the road it bounces all ovr the place if i top off the front tank the gauge reads E then i hit a bump it goes to full and if i hit another bump it could go anywere.

Rear tank pump is good can hear and feel it hum for about 1-2 sec. then shuts off sending unit seems to be fine.

Question number one i can switch between the front and rear tank the gauge switches but it seems to till run off of the front tank. i have owned the truck for three months now rear tank has been full for the past 2 and i have ran with the switch on the rear for the past 3 weeks...I relize that the only way to change tanks is the fuel pressure moves a a valve in the selcter correct? can i pull it apart and fix this?

Question number 2 if i were to take the selcter "valve" off completly could i run the to "input" lines into the "input" line for the Hp pump and the to return lines to the return line would it be ok? i know my switch is working right the front tank only runs when its turned to the front tank and the rear only runs when its switched to the rear.

so if the hp pump doesnt "suck" fuel very well why is my truck running with it on the rear tank and it only pulls fuel out of the front.

i would just put a bronco selector valve on but i love my dual tanks (when they work correctly)

 

Does anyone have a picture of the single tank reservoir from single tank trucks and bronco or bronco2s? And where i can buy it maybe? I'm pretty sure i'm having a problem with the selector valve on my 89 5.0l with dual tanks. I caught it crossfilling today and overflowing the front tank onto the ground. I don't really need both tanks so id like to delete one of them. I'm pretty sure the rear tank works, ill find out tomorrow if the front tank works. If it does, id like to delete the rear tank.

That is, unless i can find the dual tank selector valve for a decent price and in stock somewhere but it seems that its hard to come by?

 

Photos of the single tank reservoir from single tank truck.
The drawing number on the single tank reservoir is E6TA-9A044-BA.

Front:


Back:


Top:


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This morning i found out that my front tank is either not working or isnt being selected when i flip the switch. It has fuel but when the rear started to sputter and run dry i switched to the front tank and it continued to sputter for 5ish miles. Whe the front tank is selected, the guage reads waaaaay past full and when the rear is selected the guage reads empty. Does that mean the tanks are being properly selected?

 

No that means you moved the switch on the dash.
The only thing the gauge/sender circuit has in common with the fuel pumps in the tanks is the switch on the dash and then they have different contacts in the selector switch.

When the gauge reads way passed full it means you have an open circuit.
When the gauge reads at the "E" it means the float is all the way down in the tank (the float may have sunk).
If the gauge reads way passed empty and pegs it means the gauge wire is shorted to ground.

E = 22.5 ohms
F= 145 ohms

The switch on the dash sends power from the fuel shutoff switch to the pump in the tank that you selected and the other set of contacts in the switch selects a path from the gauge to the sender in the tank you selected.

The tank pump will run for one second when you turn on the key so have someone at the selected tank when you turn on the key to see if the pump in the tank is working. If you have the fuel system with a pump on the frame you may have to unplug the frame pump to hear the tank pump.

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Im new here, just joined today. My name is Scott and I'm caring for my father's '96 F-150 since he doesn't drive anymore.

It's a '96 F-150 2WD 4.9L 5-speed straight gasoline engine. Runs great now after a full tune up with new O2's.

I'm experiencing the same problems as described here. Fill up the rear tank and after driving about 90 miles or so its empty. I discovered that the fuel is being pumped into the front tank. I only found this out because the front tank was about half full and fuel was pouring out of the filler neck down the bedside...

I called the local dealership and the guy told me there was no valve or switch. He basically said one of the pumps was going bad and honestly wasn't very much help at all. I called the other local dealership and the nice parts lady said something much different. She said that there was indeed a valve on the framerail that controls fuel flow.

Now I'm assuming my valve is bad on my truck?? I'm sorry I'm not much help here, Im more familiar with my GM truck.

Any ideas where the valve is located exactly?? Can I remove it (carefully) and get a part number off of it? I can get it for about $230 locally so I don't think that's too bad.

Any help here appreciated.

Thanks guys!

Scott

 

ScoJack,
You have no valve on the frame.
You have a bad valve in the front tank.
You need to change the Fuel Delivery Module (FDM).

Your fuel system:




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Thanks!

So does the fuel delivery module go inside the tank? How hard is that to do? I'm sorry if I sound stupid, I know NOTHING about the dual tank system on this truck.

Is that part still available from Ford? I can call my dealership back in a few minutes.

 

Yes it does.
The hard part is dropping the tank OR taking the bed off.
After the tank is down or the bed is off you just unplug it, turn the ring that holds it in and lift it out.
The either replace the whole thing or replace the FDM part and put it back in with a new "O" ring.
Yes it is.
You can also get it at an auto-parts store for about $160.00 OR the hanger, wiring and all from Ford for about $350.00.

Example of one from and auto parts store:


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For photos of the job email me you email address and I will send you a photo how-to.
My email address is at the bottom of my posts.

 

Hi there, I posted in another forum then found this one, where it seems to be more fitting.
Here is what was posted...


I don't mean to jump in and take over the thread but, I've read through the other posts and it seems I may have the same problem with my '88 E-150 Conversion, it has a EFI 302 and dual tanks. I bought the van fall of '10 cheap, maybe part of the problem? :-)

The Problem:
When the rear tank was selected the van would run and drive for approx. half a mile then sputter and die... as if it ran out of gas. After this happening a couple times I quite using that tank and selected the front tank, which ran fine for the last 6 months... until last week. I started up the street and it spit and sputtered then died, as though it ran out of gas... had a little trouble getting it started but finally did, then it ran fine the rest of the way to the store and back approx. 2 miles. The next day my wife gets in and starts it, the van runs for maybe 30 seconds the dies... tries to start again and again only for it to run for maybe a second and then die. It continued to do this until yesterday. I started it after fighting the same issues as described above, then selected the rear tank and it started. It ran for about 5 to 10 minutes, at idle, then died as though it ran out of gas... it wouldn't start again.

thoughts? Could it be the fuel selector valve? I don't have a fuel pressure tester or any fancy tools, just a shade tree, weekend, wanna-be mechanic.
I'd like to know if there is a sequence of trouble shooting I can do before investing any money into parts that don't fix the problem... just can't afford that kind of trouble shooting.

Thanks in advance for your help!
-aaron

 

Grumman_300,
Sounds like the rear in-tank pump is running and the stopping after it gets hot.
Sounds like the selector valve is switching.
The front pump may have went bad on you.

This Thread if you read through it has just about all the information and photos I can post on your system.

But you need to get a bucket and put it under the selector valve on the frame.
Take the hair pin clip out, pull the supply hose off off the selector valve from the selected tank and turn the key on a off and see if it squirts fuel for one second a quits.
If it does the pump in the tank is working for now but may quit when it gets hot.
Do the same thing for the other tank.

 

10/4 Thanks for the advice... I'll do that and let you know how it goes.