Thank you for the reyple....Unfortunately, that is the same one that all of the part stores have had in stock which does not have the same kind of connector as the one we pulled off. The original connector has flat pins where as the one posted above has round pins.

Also, the fuel lines are not located in the same position--which makes this one impossible to mount and still easily connect all of the tanks. Any other thoughts?

 

I think it does come with a plug to splice into your wiring.

 

Even with the connector, I still run into the issue with the fuel connectors not lining up correctly... There wasn't much slack in them to begin with, so I'm almost guessing that they would have to be modified in some manner in order to work.

 

Subford,

I did read all 16 pages to try to find this answer 1st.

I have a 1990 F350 dually w/ 460. Front tank only works.
If I switch to the rear it dies, at which point I have to take the selector switch out and tap on it to get the front pump to work again.
What would be the best way to troubleshoot without just throwing parts at it.

Second question: Are the Selector switch and fuel pump relay the same as a 1992 f250 460 with dual tanks?


Thanks, Steve

 

If you have to tap on the selector switch to make a fuel pump run I would say the switch is more than likely bad and needs replacing. You could take it out and jump the wires that are selected but not making the pump run and if the pump starts running the switch is bad.
Note that may have to ground pin #6 of the self-test connector to keep power on the wires while testing as power is only there for ones second after the key is turned on.
If the pump does not run with power going to it and fuel gauge works OK for that tank the pump is more than likely bad.
No they are not.
I think the selector switch on a 1990 is down low or under the dash and the 1992 is up high by the headlight switch. I think the 1990 uses a toggle switch and the 1992 uses a rocker switch also.

The fuel pump relays are of a different type and plug. The 1992 relay plugs into a relay fuse box and the 1990 is hung in the open on the drivers inter fender by the power relay.

 

Thanks Subford!

10 min. with a jumper wire and your Schematic and I just need a new switch!

Thanks again!

Steve

 

First off, I've read all 16 pages of this thread and learned a lot!
However, I didn't see my problem specifically so hopefully someone here can help me out a little.
I have a 1989 F150 with the 302 and an auto. It's the long bed and has dual tanks.
As long as I've had it, the gauge for the front has never worked, but the back has, despite that, I always use the front tank and just keep a couple of gallons in the back incase I run out.
The other day when I went to fill up the front tank, the pump kept shutting off like the tank was full, even though it wasn't. I tried a different pump and even a different gas station but the problem persisted.
So I filled up the back tank and drove away. I noticed that the gauge was dropping super fast, but figured it was just a sensor error.
THen, while driving, I smelled gas really badly and when I looked, gas was POURING out of the front tank!
I switched to the front tank and drove like that home with no issues.
Now the truck seems to sputter when I give it gas while running on the back tank, but it idles just fine. It still sends gas spilling out the front filler cap though.
The front tank doesn't have much gas in it either it doesn't seem like (gauge doesn't work so I'm not sure).
I know now that my dual function fuel reservoir is likely the culprit, but I don't get my I can't fill the front tank.
I wouldn't have a problem only keeping one tank and just capping off the other one. It's my daily driver and only means of transpiration right now so I need a fix ASAP, for cheap too (broke college kid lol)
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance!!
Josh

 

Josh,
The problem comes from not switching tanks each time one runs out. When you only drive on one tank for a long time or the truck sets for a while the "O" rings will stick on the shafts and you do not know where the supply is coming from or the return is going.
When switching tanks every time these selector valve will out live the truck but you can not let the "O" set in one place on the shaft or you will have problems.

If you hear both in-tank pumps run when they are selected then your only problem is stuck "O" rings. To free them most posters just replace the selector valve.
But the front tank could also have a bad hose between the pump and the tube going up the hanger.

The front tank is more than likely just full of fuel is why you can not fill it.

 

I appreciate your insight, but I don't think the front tank is full, the gauge doesn't work so I can't be sure though. And I don't know why the motor would die when giving it gas while running off of the back tank. It will idle just fine for several minutes, but as soon as I give it gas it sputters and then stalls unless I switch back to the front tank right away.
I read that a low pressure pump that isn't supplying enough pressure can cause the DFFR to malfunction, could that be why it stalls on the back tank?

 

1986 e350 econoline triple e motorhme, 7.5. we purchased this motorhome a couple of years ago. found out the front fuel tank doesn't work. by lookking at the modifcation some one did to the fuel selector valve that it must have been faulty. they had directly bi-assed the valve and conected the rear directly to main line. So i replaced the selector valve. but who ever modified the original cut the electric connector off. so i have no idea which wire is what. if i switch the fuel to front tank i blow the fuse under the dash. so i have to questions. is this fuse problem because the front pump in gone or the auxilery senser gone? I have checked all the iring diagrms and mine don't match any or even come close. So by using a test light to figre which wire is what.
with key on to start posision. green wire ploses. If i connect the green and orange my rear fuel gauge works.
please correct me if my gess is wrong

green being gauge - B
orange rear sensor ( rear fuel sensor) - this wire never shows power -D
yellow / red strip ( power on rear) rear fuel pump. C

switch set on front tank
green / red strip (power to fuel pump) E
brown /red -A

SO I HOPE I HAVE FIGURED TO WIRING OT RIGHT.
but when select front tank the fuse blows.
because the fuse keep blowing i havent been able to see if the fuel pump is working. i am thining the pump is gone because the inline new inline filter i put in has no fuel at all.
Do i have twwo problem or more?

 

Ok, according to my AllData, the E series wiring is a bit different from the F series.

Brown/Orange - front fuel pump and terminal 2 of switching valve
Red/Yellow - rear fuel pump and terminal 1 of switching valve
Green/Red - front gauge sender goes to terminal 3 of switching valve
Orange - rear gauge sender goes to terminal 5 of switching valve
Green - Fuel gauge goes to terminal 4 of switching valve

The system is fed from either the starter relay when cranking or the fuel pump relay once it sees power from an oil pressure switch on the back of the engine. I don't show a separate fuse for the pumps, if it is like my F-350 it was fusible links, two 20 ga. blue ones, one at the starter relay and one in the fuel pump relay harness. There is a fuse for the relay circuit, but it feeds the coil and any solenoids on the carburetor.

 

Horse dreamer,
I take it Fuse #4 is the one that blows. This fuse supplies the selector switch, the motor for the selector valve and the coil of the tank selector relay.
No the fuse will not blow because the front pump is gone or the front fuel tank gauge sender is gone.
Here are the two diagrams of your fuel system:



/

 

E5TZ-9189-B = Marked with ID engineering number (# molded into plastic housing): E57F-9F271-BA or E67F-9F271-AA

MSRP: $319.85 (Yikes!) // FTE sponsor tousleyfordparts.com price: $211.10.

The prices have gone up considerably over the past 4 years: See post #11.

This valve is a POS and has been since day one! And...because it's a POS, it's been a best seller for FoMoCo since day one!

 

thank you for the diagrams. on the fuse box the fuse is called the auxitory fuse. when the tank switch is set to rear tank everything works fine on rear but as soon as i select front tank the fuse blows. I am trying to find the problem why. I have unplugged the wiring at the front fuel tank plus there is no wires connected at the selector valve. and the fuse keeps blowing when switched to front. I do now the fuse supplies the power to two wires at the fuel selector valve.

To make sure i am looking at the right things there is two plugs on the drivers firewall under hood. one grey, and one green. the fuel interuptor bk/y runs to the green (square with the wire are on the harness there are no wires on the casing that the harness plug to). so from your information. so the green would be fuel pump cutoff relay bk/y run inside to switch with a button to relieve fuel pressure. tank selector be the grey one or would that be the switch in the cab?

so with green plug and front fuel unplugged the fuse still blows. the rear tank isn't affected by any of these items unplugged the fuel switch in cab to select front that could be causing the fuse to blow. So fuel pump cutoff relay, fuel tank selector switch is faulty or tank selector relay?

 

I read it some where on the sight but can't find it any more.
old fuel selectors were numbered and the new ones are aphabatized.
1 - R/Y , NEW A
2 - BR/O , NEW B
3 - G/R , NEW C
4 - G , NEW D
5 - O , NEW E
F IS NOT USED ON NEW PLUG