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  #196 (permalink)  
Old 12-06-2011, 09:24 PM
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william.a.vose
On the 86 460 with the hot fuel handling package, the system is powered by the starter relay when cranking, this allows him to change tanks when he starts the truck. Once the engine starts the oil pressure switch on the back of the engine provides power through a relay and a resistance wire. If the switch or the relay or the resistance wire are bad the system will not change tanks or run the pumps. The rear sender may be bad also.
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  #197 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2011, 04:12 PM
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Hi I bought one for my 1990 E250 with a 351 gas motor and dual tanks in it a few years ago but never got to put it in. Now Iam converting the van over to a 7.3 diesel and I need the one that is electrical. While removing the 7.3 engine I broke off the return line on the valve. part # on the new one I never got around to installing is F1UZ-9B263-B and the one I need now is E9TB-9F271-AA. Anybody know where I might get one ? Thanks Bob in Mass.
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  #198 (permalink)  
Old 12-08-2011, 05:11 PM
calvery24 calvery24 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kb1jid View Post
Hi I bought one for my 1990 E250 with a 351 gas motor and dual tanks in it a few years ago but never got to put it in. Now Iam converting the van over to a 7.3 diesel and I need the one that is electrical. While removing the 7.3 engine I broke off the return line on the valve. part # on the new one I never got around to installing is F1UZ-9B263-B and the one I need now is E9TB-9F271-AA. Anybody know where I might get one ? Thanks Bob in Mass.


hey bob, sorry to say it but, this is a ford only part. if will run from $235-$290. call your local dealership to price it. if it is over $235 then look up Allstate Ford in Louisville, Ky. the parts are cheap here considering we have the ford truck plant here.
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  #199 (permalink)  
Old 12-13-2011, 09:57 PM
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I located one from a place in ohio that deals with obsolete Ford parts. 80.00 + 12.00 shipping ordered fri got it tue Thanks Bob
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  #200 (permalink)  
Old 12-15-2011, 07:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subford View Post
Do you have two not connected ports on the a selector valve that went to the rear tank or has it been replaced with a single tank reservoir?
If it is a single tank reservoir I would say you have a bad front tank pump or bad wiring (power) to it.


hey subford happy holidays. I am going to get myself the greatest gift ever this christmas. my fuel tanks, but i would like your opinion on with one i should get. here is a link if you could check them out i will be replacing both tanks.

Fuel Tank - Auto Parts Warehouse

money is not to much of an issue. can you also send me diagrams and pictures of the fuel pumps if you have them thanks
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  #201 (permalink)  
Old 12-15-2011, 09:58 PM
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It would be the top one in the link.

Click the image to open in full size.

/
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  #202 (permalink)  
Old 12-16-2011, 06:34 AM
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william.a.vose
You might PM Archion, he runs a warehouse that distributes fuel tanks among other parts.
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  #203 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2012, 12:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subford View Post
You can try cleaning the selector valve but I had to have my wife take the push keeps out that holds the two valve down. I am not good at that and I would tear them up. But if you can get the "O" rings to slide and seal on the two valves you should be able to clean it.

I do not know where you can get any parts for it so you would be on your own there but I will post a link below and some photos of one that I took apart.

Note that the link to a replacement valve in this link is no longer working:
Ford E
/
Wow, Subford, you've made a career of this thread and the info is great. I'm dealing with a 1990 E150 with a 351 and dual tanks for my grandparents right now. It was overflowing the front tank when running off the back one so I pulled the reservoir and found the diaphragm to be bad. It is a F1UA-9B263-AA that looks like the one you posted on page 8. Yesterday while researching I found the link you reference in the quote above, of course not working. So does this mean that there is no service kit? Seems crazy to have to spend major $$ when all it needs is a couple o-rings and a diaphragm.
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  #204 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2012, 07:08 PM
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I do not know of any service kit for the valve.
The valve can only be ordered from a Ford dealer.
The part number is p/n F1UZ-9B263-B.
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  #205 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2012, 07:13 PM
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Thanks, the part number is on it. I guess I'll have to bite the bullet. It's just frustrating to not be able to fix something so simple without full replacement.
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1975 Highboy, Cummins 5.9, ZF5, NP205, HP D60 Front, Sterling 10.5 Rear
Custom suspension, 4 wheel discs, 38s
2002 F250 CC, 4x4, PSD, 4"^, 35s
1973 CC Dually project
Horsepower is hitting a wall hard, torque is punching through it.
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  #206 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2012, 07:53 PM
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That is not the part number that is on it.
Ford never puts the part number on anything, that is a drawing number or some call it an Engineering number.
The part number that can change is the one I listed above.
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  #207 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2012, 08:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subford View Post
Ford never puts the part number on anything,
That's what I thought, but the counter man got all excited when I showed it to him so I thought maybe it was a useful number.
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1975 Highboy, Cummins 5.9, ZF5, NP205, HP D60 Front, Sterling 10.5 Rear
Custom suspension, 4 wheel discs, 38s
2002 F250 CC, 4x4, PSD, 4"^, 35s
1973 CC Dually project
Horsepower is hitting a wall hard, torque is punching through it.
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  #208 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2012, 07:59 AM
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It is a useful number, Ford parts can cross it to a part number most of the time and if an if the drawing number or Engineering number is on the computer then that is the number that auto parts stores and salvage yards go by.

But if you know the part number then it is much easier to get or order a part from a Ford dealer as in your case with the fuel selector valve that auto parts stores do not sell.
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  #209 (permalink)  
Old 01-13-2012, 01:49 PM
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replaceing the valve

Thanks for all the info. But I have a questions... What is the best way to remove the hose connection/clips from the selector valve? Is it hard to replace it? The reason for the question, is that the dealer says 2.5 hrs. at a cost of $241.00. If it's not that hard to replace it, I'd like to try it myself. It looks easy enough to get to if I use ramps.
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  #210 (permalink)  
Old 01-13-2012, 01:51 PM
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I just pop them out with a screwdriver and replace them even it they look good. Cheap insurance.
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1975 Highboy, Cummins 5.9, ZF5, NP205, HP D60 Front, Sterling 10.5 Rear
Custom suspension, 4 wheel discs, 38s
2002 F250 CC, 4x4, PSD, 4"^, 35s
1973 CC Dually project
Horsepower is hitting a wall hard, torque is punching through it.
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Old 01-13-2012, 01:51 PM
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