"Floppy" steering wheel, tilt column...
#2
I don't know the exact size but, there are three allen head screws that hold the tilt portion of the steering wheel to the column. You have to stand on your head and look from the back. They are spread out back there but not evenly.
I've dug into mine two or three times and it still comes loose. Last time I had to tear the thing all the way apart and weld back a piece on the shaft, I'm sure I broke it trying to get the things tight.
Anyway, if you back them out, the nut portion will come with them and that's the part that you have to be carefull with. You have to make sure they are seated in the column before you tighten them up. For lack of better words, the nut portion has a lip on it that has to fit in an opening just right or, well, you get the floppy's.
Good Luck
I've dug into mine two or three times and it still comes loose. Last time I had to tear the thing all the way apart and weld back a piece on the shaft, I'm sure I broke it trying to get the things tight.
Anyway, if you back them out, the nut portion will come with them and that's the part that you have to be carefull with. You have to make sure they are seated in the column before you tighten them up. For lack of better words, the nut portion has a lip on it that has to fit in an opening just right or, well, you get the floppy's.
Good Luck
#3
I have an 86 bronco with tilt and the turn signal lever that releases the tilt was flopping around. I pulled the steering wheel off and removed the turn signal plat that gave me access to the turn signal mechanisim. there is a plastic piece the the turn signal fits into that was broken. I could not find this part so I repaired it with JB Weld and filed it to the proper size re-assembled and it works great.
#4
I had a similar problem with my 86 F-250. I had 1 to 1-1/2 inches of play in all directions. The guy I bought it from had tried to remove the steering wheel by jerking on it and had pulled 1 of the 2 bearings in the upper collar out of place. I was able to reseat it. It still has about 1/4 inch of play, but I suspect the bearings may be distorted from using it to pull himself into the truck.
Here's what I had to do:
1. remove the steering wheel. If you don't have access to a puller, loosen the nut back it off to the end of the steering shaft. Use a wooden mallet or lead filled mallet and whack the nut a couple of times while tugging on the steering wheel.
2. Remove the plastic ring that houses the turn signals, horn, etc. (3 screws, I think). You won't be able to completely remove it unless you undo the wiring harness, but you should be able to pull it out of the way.
3. Remove the ignition switch. Insert your key and, while pushing on the recessed button on the bottom of the switch, turn the key and slide the ignition switch out. (You'll probably want to disconnect your battery before doing this.
4. Remove the ignition collar (3 screws and a lot of fanagaling.)
Once you get to this step, you'll be able to see the bearings. I was able to use a screw type clamp to press them back in, but you may have to come up with your own plan.
Assembly is the reverse of removal. The ignition switch gave me the most trouble. I don't have any advice other than playing with it.
All done and told, it took me about 2 hours, and I had no clue what I was doing...
Here's what I had to do:
1. remove the steering wheel. If you don't have access to a puller, loosen the nut back it off to the end of the steering shaft. Use a wooden mallet or lead filled mallet and whack the nut a couple of times while tugging on the steering wheel.
2. Remove the plastic ring that houses the turn signals, horn, etc. (3 screws, I think). You won't be able to completely remove it unless you undo the wiring harness, but you should be able to pull it out of the way.
3. Remove the ignition switch. Insert your key and, while pushing on the recessed button on the bottom of the switch, turn the key and slide the ignition switch out. (You'll probably want to disconnect your battery before doing this.
4. Remove the ignition collar (3 screws and a lot of fanagaling.)
Once you get to this step, you'll be able to see the bearings. I was able to use a screw type clamp to press them back in, but you may have to come up with your own plan.
Assembly is the reverse of removal. The ignition switch gave me the most trouble. I don't have any advice other than playing with it.
All done and told, it took me about 2 hours, and I had no clue what I was doing...
#5
#6
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Gary Lewis
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
15
03-13-2015 03:37 PM
Econo4spd
1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis
5
03-04-2015 12:49 AM
thumper7741
1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
4
09-28-2014 08:35 AM