I am going to be putting the heads back on my 352 and replacing the timing chain. Does any one have and Tips so I don't have any problems. Also is there a way to get the old paint off of the aluminum timing cover and the rest of the block. Thanks in advance. Eric

 

The biggest problem you might run into is getting the timing cover lined up in relation to the crank so that the damper seal dosn't leak. A crude but effective way of doing this is to wrap electrical tape around the seal surface of the damper, (3 or 4 times will do.) Then put the damper on before you tighten down the timing chain cover. Tighten down the cover, remove the damper, remove the tape, and install it properly.

The slight, additional diameter that the electrical tape provides will not damage the seal in the cover, but will hold it tight enought to tighten the cover bolts.

As far as removing the old paint! I have always used the brush side of a bench grinder to do the job. You can have it hot tanked by your local machine shop if you don't have a grinder.

As for installing the heads, Just be sure that the head gaskets are one right! (one of them is installed upside down to be "right", but I don't remember which one!) I'm sure somebody that has done it recently will post with the proper sequence.

 

The reason I don't want to wire brush the timing cover is cause it is aluminum and I want to polish it up and I don't want to take out scratches the wire brush would leave. I guess I can scrape it off it is pretty thick and seems to chip pretty easy. Thanks For the Reply. Eric

 

Permatex gasket remover works pretty good at removing that old
paint from your timing cover. Also you might try a good brand of
carb. cleaner such as gumout or K&W. Whatever you use, let it
set and soak in. Good luck, Mike
1973 F-100 351W top loader 4SPD. 3.70 Tractionlock
1973 F-100 302 3SPD original beater

 

Have a buddy around when you are ready to install the intake. It can be done by one guy, but it's a lot easier with two. Also, when you're ready for the intake gaskets, use the yellow weatherstrip and emblem adhesive between the block and the gasket. This stuff is super sticky and tacks up much quicker than rtv. Use regular rtv in the corners and across the tops of the seals.
Jason Kendrick
1970 F100 Custom 390/C6
1978 F150 Ranger Lariat Supercab 460/C6

 

The yellow adhesive is a good tip......spread it on the bottom of the cork pieces,stick them to the block for a second, pull them back off and let the glue dry for a couple minutes and when you stick 'em back on they'll be there to stay....the reason that this is so important is because of the high weight of the intake manifold it becomes one less thing you have to worry about while wrestling the manifold in to place. The one thing that I screwed up during my top end rebuild was not cutting the little "tabs" off of the head gaskets. These little "tabs" butt against the cork that we were previously talking about, now mind you we're talking about fel-pro gaskets here so yours may differ, and if I'm not mistaken I found a little piece of paper in the box later (seperate from the instructions) and it explained the "tab" trimming procedure. The most important part of having a leak-free installation is absolute cleanliness,even the oils from your skin can "screw up" an adhesives ability to stick.

 

For the last 10 years I've thrown away the end gaskets and used a
bead of Permatex ultra copper and have not had a problem since.
Results no worries about the grubworms slipping or slideing.The
intakes on FE engines are super heavy.Changing to an aluminum intake would take alot of weight off the front of a truck.Mike
1973 F-100 351W Toploader 4SPD 3.70 tractionlock
1973 F-100 302 3SPD original beater

 

My method will NOT slide. I've seen TOO many silicone "Worms" rolled up inside of oil pumps to EVER use that amount of silicone on any engine. just my 2 cents.

 

Dante, I was just giveing my 2 cents also. You will never see the problem you just described if it is done right,clean both
surfaces with starting fluid and dont get carried away with the
amount of ultra copper used,between one forth to three eights inch bead.I have seen what you are talking about when some one
thinks more is better. I have worked in automotive and truck repair for the last twenty years and have done it your way with
good results. But to each his own,I would be willing to bet the way I do it will out last the old way, The cork will eventually start to absorb oil. Mike

 

when fel-pro starts including an industrial sized tube of silicone in the gasket kits I'll start using that method **GRINS**

 

[font color=red size=3]I use the yellow weatherstrip adhesive too. Works great, I wouldn't do it any other way.

I think the "tabs" you are thinking of, are the top of the intake gaskets. When the intake is on, the top of the gasket is above the gasket surface for the valve cover. The 1/8inch pieces must be trimmed off for a flat surface for the valve cover. That's how my felpro gaskets were.

And the head gaskets are market FRONT. As long as the end of the gasket marked FRONT is at the front of the engine, they will be right. Again, that's how my felpro gaskets were.

Marty[/font]

 

I will probably be doing that this weekend or after christmas I will let you all know how it goes. I know how heavy the intake is and wish I had the money for an aluminum intake but I don't I will have to stick with the stock for now. I hope you all have a merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. Thanks For the replys. Eric

 

I forgot the most Important tip that I could've given ya'.
When I changed the timing gears in the 352 The new gears were slightly different between the 352 and the 390.
On the 352 there is a "camshaft end spacer" which needed to be removed......but the sheet was missing from my new parts box.
It was a seperate sheet from the directions and it caused me a ton of grief. If I would have been paying attention I would've noticed the gears were not running parallel, things were just going TOO good that day. In the end the cam gear was touching the inside of the gear cover and BOY did it make a "racket" when I fired it up.
My point here is to "PROCEED WITH CAUTION"

 

Thanks for telling me about the spacer my timing chain did have the Paper in it. The engine still isn't together yet. Do I need to put the piece back on the cam for the fuel pump? I have an electric fuel pump and don't plan on putting the mechanical one back on. Thanks I will let you know how it runs after I get it back together. Eric

 

I got it all back together but it won't start I put new plug wires, plugs, and coil it is firing but won't start. It is getting gas and it won't even backfire I got the timing set on the compression stroke. This was my first ford and I don't think it likes me. Eric