Has anybody tried to replace rear shocks on a late model E150, in their garage, with the usual do-it-yourselfer's tools? I was/am considering this, but I was just under the van and found it very cramped to even see and touch the upper(rod end) nuts, much less get a tool on them. Mine is a 2002, nothing special about the rear suspension. Any tips? All comments welcome, including those that I'd be nuts (no pun intended) to try this.
I did all of the shocks on my '95. I don't recall any differences in the later model vans. I remember it not being the easiest thing to get to the top mounts. Be sure you get a real shock tool.
Tried my sockets without the vehicle jacked up, and just barely got a deep socket of the right size on the rod nut, much less a ratchet. Same with a open-end wrench to hold the rod. Not sure if this is much worse than a '95, but it looked pretty tough on a '02.
No, the top of the shock rod has two flats on it instead of a standard hex head. A special socket is made for use on these. There are two different sizes.
What you described sounds like what I remember. Not much room at the top.
My older van has the same tight access problem. When I got it the 10+ y/o shock bolts were so rusted they wouldn't budge, so ripped out [what was left of] the upper rubber washer and cut through the rod with a hacksaw blade. Tightening the nut on the new shocks wasn't much easier, used an open ended wrench and got maybe a 1/4 turn at a time.
ps... a pair of knuckle saving mechanic's gloves are highly recommended :-)
As I recall from replacing all four on my '94, the driver's side rear took as long as the other three combined, but with enough patients, you can do it. I used an ordinary open end spanner like 83van did.
Bought top of the line Carquest Shocks $45 each at the store, front and back for $48 on Ebay, took it to Pep Boys and had them put them in $60. So for $108 got good gas shocks and good price and saved $80 for all four installed. The guy at Pep Boys had a hard time with them even with the lift and air tools. Took him about 55 minutes. If you are keeping the van, go Bilstein
OK, OK, you all talked me into having it done . I was going to do it anyway, at least on the rears. Probably do the fronts myself, if for no other reason than I can do the front pads at the same time and save money on both. Thanks for everyone's input, I was looking for a silver bullet that just isn't there.
No, the top of the shock rod has two flats on it instead of a standard hex head. A special socket is made for use on these. There are two different sizes.
What you described sounds like what I remember. Not much room at the top.
If the shocks have been on long enough to rust, getting those top nuts off can be miserable even w/the special tool. I've seen the end twist right off on shocks in the Rust Belt! Alternate plan B has been the Blue Tip wrench for many. Alternate plan C is to ruin the top steel shield trying to hold it from rotating. Alternate plan D, if so equipped, is to destroy a top plastic shield & ViseGrip the shaft to hold it from rotating. Alternate plan E only works w/certain compact Nut Splitters, were you split the nut if you can get a grip on it.
Any automotive tool supplier will have them. Most good autoparts stores will either have them or can get them. Autozone may have them but a CarQuest or NAPA would be a better bet.
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. I was going to do it anyway, at least on the rears. Probably do the fronts myself, if for no other reason than I can do the front pads at the same time and save money on both. Thanks for everyone's input, I was looking for a silver bullet that just isn't there.
