Alright, well the reason why I asked all this is because I just bought my truck in December. After 3,000 miles I did my first oil change to Mobil 1 full syn 5w30 and since then have noticed some valve noise or piston slap on cold start up. I did not hear this before using Mobil 1. I don't know what oil was in the truck when I bought it, but I do know the Ford dealership where I bought it from changed the oil before they sold it to me.
So any merit to certain brands/grades of oil being responsible for start-up noise?
I'm due for my next oil change in a couple hundred miles and I'm thinking of trying something else to see if I can get rid of the noise. Suggestions?

 

If the sound goes away within a few seconds it's more than likely a little piston slap. Don't worry, it's normal. It has to do with the short skirts and aluminum pistons. It simply won't matter what oil you use.

If it doesn't go away within 30 seconds then you have a problem.

M1 5w30 is really a light 30wt in that it's actually pretty close to a 5w20. Motorcraft 5w20 is a synthetic blend that has been cranking out numerous outstanding UOA's on bitog and FTE ( I have one being analyzed on MC 5w20 from my '04 as I'm typing this).

IMO, it's a real sleeper oil and it's probably one of the best oils for a modular motor on the market to day. Ford's 930A spec is a tough nut to crack, and only synthetic blends are able to meet this standard in 5w20. Any oil that says it meets the Ford 930A spec would be a great oil to run in your motor. Beware of the ones that don't meet this spec.

 

I've been told my a couple mechanice the same thing......5w20 is the way to go acording to them....thats all i use.....seams to hold up very well for me

 

Thanks. WHat do you think of additives such as Lucas to control this piston slap? They claim it can solve most any noise.

Also, what exactly is a "modular" engine? How is a modular engine different than a regular engine of old, say 20 years ago?

 

I suggest that you do a search in the Oil and Lubrication fourm. It shouldn't take too long to see that almost all additives change oil properties for the worse. Lucas doesn't belong in a motor IMO, it's just an oil thickener (a loser one at that) and it's much cheaper to just bump up to the next oil thickness than to add Lucas.

Just use a oil of the 5w30 or 5w20 range that is labeled SL or SM, with a good oil filter and change to the owners manual intervals. You won't have any problem making it to 250K with out a oil related failure ( I can't say that there won't be other problems).

 

When you say "meet that spec", how do you tell if an oil meets that spec. For instance, Mobil 1 5w30 synthetic lists 929A. Would that mean it's one notch above or below the spec?

 

It has more to do with the type of testing for a products viscosity range that is has to meet for it say it meets one of Fords specs.

Ford's spec for 5w30 is the 929A spec.

Ford's spec for 5w20 is the 930A spec.

In your engine I'd use any oil that meets these specs since it originally came of the dealership with 5w30 in the crank.

If you go with a 5w20 oil, make sure it meets the 930A spec, and the 929A spec if you decide on a 5w30 oil. The bottle will say on the back of it it wether it meets the Ford spec or not. If it's not mentioned, then steer clear of it.

 

Well, lets start with the Amzoil propaganda. They would like for you to believe that their oil is not a petroleum based product. I can only guess these morons have an eythelene tree orchard somewhere while the remainder of the universe gets theirs from......where...........out of the ground.....OH NO, it can't be! But yes folks, it comes out of the ground and is the same hydrocarbons as good ol' dino juice. If you want extended oil changes- Amzoil is as good as any BUT without the all important API approval/certification. Oh yeah, and NO it won't be certified either as the add packs EXCEED the MAXIMUM limits set by API. So don't buy off on the BS that their products exceeds API standards- in reality- they do, that's the problem.

The Car Craft article is obviously written by an idiot. So now the molecular size makes it withstand more heat? Not in your life time. Molecular sizing CAN be beneficial for better linear flow but that's about it folks. PAO basestocks which is what this is all about have some very good and some very bad characteristics. They flow better when cold, will stand a little more heat before turning to goo, and will last longer without breaking down( we're talking extended changes here). They also don't mix with the add packs so a binder of some sort is used, they are polar or non-polar which creates problems that are again handled by yet another additive or additives, and they are prone to corrosion(hence the usual higher than dino wear metals).

I don't really care what you run in your engine- hey it's your truck, your money. If you want the best for your engine, use an oil that is speced for the engine by the manufacturer. Don't buy into advertizing hype that El Slicko oil will make your engine last forever and give you 10 more miles to the gallon- it ain't gonna happen. Outside of the ester based oils, the basestocks are from the same hydrocarbons, one is not going to be "slicker" or yield more life out of an engine than the other. I've got gas engines on Walmart cheapy oil at over 300,000 miles now. Other clients choose a synthetic like Amzoil for the extended oil changes to minimize maintenance down time. These engines see 200,000 miles and some are at more than that. Pick an oil, pick a favorite and stay with it.

Coldair, did ya know that your Castrol is a dino oil? A Gp III to be exact. So you don't know anything about oil- fine, I can certainly respect that. It beats most folks beating the synthetic bandwagon that don't have a clue and won't admit to it. For the average driver, the blends will turn in the lowest wear metals and if your friend is in the industry- she will tell you that exact answer. And this is for the API standards areas- not ACEA.

So the question was is it alright to run the 5w-20 oil in a 5.4 speced to use 5w-30. Yeah, it will be fine. If you aren't comfortable running it, select an oil that meets Fords spec 929 that is also energy conserving. The EC oils are on the thin side of their respective viscosity range at temp just like the 5w-20 oils are on the thick end of the viscosity range at temp. There really is not much difference in the viscosities at temp between the two. The spec difference between the 929 and 930 is the viscosity, otherwise they are pretty much the same in deposits, viscosity ranging, etc.

If you have a question about oil, please search the Oil and Lube forum here at the FTE. We have covered most every subject including after market additives.

 

well, im with Flash as thats what i said in the beginning. usea GOOD quality oil 5W20 or 5W30, your choice. you are further ahead to change the oil more often and get the crud out than you are to spend your money on magic oil that they claim lasts forever. brand names are wonderfull if that impresses you, but in the end they are basically the same.

 

I'm not a mechanic or an oil expert. But my experience may be helpful to you. I bought my '98 E-150 4.6L in July 2000. I wanted it to last as long as possible so I decided to use synth oil. IIRC my owners manual called for 10W-30. I went with Mobil 1. The first winter (Dec,Jan, Feb '00/2001) I noticed fairly loud "valve train" noise at start up.I changed to Mobil 1 5W-30. I noticed a marked improvement. I stayed with it and the MC 820S oil filter. I had fairly quiet starts except for the coldest days (below ~40 degrees). The lower the temp the louder the Tick, Tick, Tick. And the longer it lasted.

I continued with this oil until this winter('05/'06). Since I've read so many good things about MC 5W-20, I decided to try it. It has all but eliminated the noise at start-up. Even at temps below 25 degrees the Ticks sounds are very soft and last less than 1 minute.

I have not decided to use it year 'round yet. But every winter my '98 will be runnin' with Motorcraft 5W-20.

Good Luck

 

I would thank you for your time and go on my merry way. I have been using Mobil One since 30k on my 97 5.4. Lots of things have gone wrong with it, but the engine has always run clean and strong. It has no sludge and consumes zero oil.

Just for discussion's sake, it should be noted that some of the newer model engines (all makes) have such tight tolerances, that regular oil will sludge up and ruin the engine. Just ask some Toyota owners. IMO, syn oil runs cleaner and cooler than regular oil.

We were asked for opinions, and that's what we're giving. Respect.

 

To the guy who said he went from Mobil 1 to Motorcraft 5w20, I plan to do the same thing. Now my question is, since 5w20 seems to be Motorcraft's big success, are the other name brand's 5w20 oils as good or better than Motorcraft's?
For example, Motorcraft 5w20 is a synthetic blend. Mobil 1's 5w20 is full synthetic. How do the two compare?

 

You should just quit talking about oil now. The more you say, the less you know.

Flash - well put.

 

Ask a Toyota tech about the sludging problems they have with conventional oil.

Why do some cars come with Mobil one as the factory fill?

 

This is a Ford truck website. Who cares about Toyota.