So I tried doing the trailer wiring myself by splicing into the tailight wires (I know bad idea, but it has worked on a nissan truck I have). Anyway, I started running into some issues, so I decided to just go back to how it originally was (the only change being that there is some electrical tape on the spliced wires, but they are all back to normal). So after doing that, the blinker lights work fine, the back up light works fine, the brake lights work fine, just no rear running lights. So I checked a couple fuses that the rear running lights might by running through on the passenger fuse box, and the engine fuse box, but they all look good (the bulbs are good too). I have no idea why they are not coming on.

Ideas?

Thanks in advance.

 

There's some fancy monitoring of the current drawn from all the lighting circuits by the Smart Junction Box. You may have smoked something in the SBJ by incorrectly wiring something.

 

Have you run the system check on the information panel? Does it give you any indication of a problem?

Are you sure the wires are spliced back together well?

 

God I hope the smart junction box isnt fried. Those I am sure are very expensive and difficulte to replace. By the way, speaking of frying, do you think the GEM could be damaged as well?

How do I run a system check from the information panel? When I had the blinker wires disconnected it did come up with a message saying check blinker lights. But with everything hooked up now, there are no message.

What about this?
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...er=193142_0_0_

Is a lighting control module the same thing as a GEM? Would be nice if i could get it at autozone rather then the dealer. Although I guess I have to pay them to download all the programs from the old one anyway.

 

Just found this...i know its not the right year, but according to this website, they say 99% dont need to be reprogrammed.



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</TD><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #f0f0f0; PADDING-RIGHT: 0in; BORDER-TOP: #f0f0f0; PADDING-LEFT: 0in; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0in; BORDER-LEFT: #f0f0f0; WIDTH: 100%; PADDING-TOP: 0in; BORDER-BOTTOM: #f0f0f0; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" vAlign=top width="100%"><TABLE class=MsoNormalTable style="WIDTH: 100%; mso-cellspacing: 0in; mso-yfti-tbllook: 1184; mso-padding-alt: 0in 0in 0in 0in" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR style="mso-yfti-irow: 0; mso-yfti-firstrow: yes; mso-yfti-lastrow: yes"><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #ffffff; PADDING-RIGHT: 0in; BORDER-TOP: #ffffff; PADDING-LEFT: 0in; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0in; BORDER-LEFT: #ffffff; PADDING-TOP: 0in; BORDER-BOTTOM: #ffffff; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">New Genuine Ford company GEM (General Electric Module) for 2001-2003 Ford Escape. This fits vehicles with keyless entry only.

What Keyless entry means: There is confusion over the term keyless entry. Keyless entry means that you have a remote on your keychain to lock and unlock the doors or you have a key pad to enter the code on the door which is also called keyless entry. If you have the keypad on the door OR the remotes on your keychain OR both then you HAVE keyless entry. If you have neither one you do NOT have keyless entry. The keypads and remotes work the same, both send a wireless code to your GEM module to lock or unlock the doors. Entering the code and pressing the button on the keychain do the EXACT same thing. Note: buying a gem module for vehicles not already equipped with keyless entry will NOT give you keyless entry.

This is the newest updated design that resolves all past problems these GEM units had.

The picture show is a sample photo only, yours may look different.

This is a very common failure. Internal failure in the GEM module, also known as the Generic or General electrical Module, can create an electrical short.

Don’t let the dealership take you for a ride! 99% of these do not require programming, however there are many dealerships telling you they do require programming which is not correct in most cases. They will charge you a few hours of labor, and do absolutely nothing but plug this into your dash and take your cash.

If yours requires programming, there will be a sticker or card in the box with the GEM saying that programming is required, in this unfortunate case you would have to take it to a dealership to be done, but remember 99% of the do not require it at all.

How to Identify the GEM module in your vehicle: There are several similar looking boxes under your dash. The GEM module will have a ford number that is the sets of characters. If the middle set of Characters is 14B205 then you have found the Gem module. The number will look something like this XXXX-14B205-XX.

Call us with the part number on the GEM that is in your Vehicle now, and we can cross it over to the newest Ford part number and make sure you are getting the correct item and price.

The number on your old GEM will not match the one we sent you. We are sending you the newest updated genuine Ford version, with the newest part number. Each time it is revised the part number changes, so the part number you receive form us may be nothing like the original.

Unfortunately since some people try to use these as test parts to diagnose a problem on their car, we will be unable to accept returns for a refund on this item (normal warranty still applies) on this part so be sure this is what you need before ordering.
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Gem auto parts+escape at TheFind - Search, discover and compare prices
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Press the INFO button to scroll through the screens until it says "PRESS SET FOR SYSTEM CHECK". Then press SET and it will run through the checks.

 

The follow is from '06 FE/FEH. It has the same basic description for the headlamps, fog lamps, etc. In '07 or '08 is was changed to FET monitoring, much more complex. The GEM is a different thing.

Principles of Operation

The smart junction box (SJB) monitors the base vehicle lighting systems. When the turn or stoplamps are illuminated, the SJB provides voltage to the trailer turn/stoplamps at the same time. The parking lamp relay for the vehicle also provides voltage to the trailer parking lamps when energized.

The SJB utilizes a protective circuit strategy for many of its outputs (for example, the headlamp output circuit). Output loads (current level) are monitored for excessive current (typically short circuits) and are shut down (turns off the voltage or ground provided by the module) when a fault is detected. A continuous diagnostic trouble code (DTC) is stored at that time for the fault. The circuit will then reset after an ignition cycle or customer demand of the function (switching the component on, 30-minute battery saver being energized). When an excessive circuit load occurs several times, the module shuts down the output until a service procedure is performed. At the same time, the continuous DTC that was stored on the first failure will not clear by a command to clear the continuous DTCs. The module will not allow this code to be cleared or the circuit restored to normal until a successful on-demand self-test proves that the fault has been repaired. After the on-demand self-test has successfully completed (no on-demand DTCs present), the continuous DTC will have been cleared and the circuit function will return.

 

Bill,

Thanks for that valuable info, much appreciated. That sounds like a distinct possibility of what happened. It sounds like a cheaper and easier fix then a GEM replacement. So how do I do this on demand self test? Do I check the DTC's with an OBD2 sensor? <o></o>
<o></o>
By the way, are you saying the SJB has a separate circuit for the rear running lights and drivers license light? Because those are the only lights that aren’t working. <o></o>

 

Yes, it appears to have a test circuit for every group of lighting.

You didn't say anything about a Check Engine Light, Wrench Icon, etc. You'd think that it would let the driver know.

I think that the PCM does that test on its own. I've read about other critical DTCs that can only be cleared by the module, etc. that set the code and even disconnecting the battery won't clear them.

I'd recheck your wiring, check for power to the lights and check for proper grounding.