How hard is it to change the fuel pump on my supercab truck? It sat for 4 months and now the fuel pump will not run, it cranks over but will not start. I removed the relay and jumped the terminals and the pump still does not run. The truck has 12,000 miles on it and it sits alot.
I haven't done one on a truck but I have on several cars with the pumps in the tank and it's not to bad. You may want a little help getting the tank out (preferably empty). I also looked it up in my Haynes manual and it looks pretty straight forward. Keep in mind that a tank full of vapors is more volitile than a full tank.
Before you go dropping the tank though, have you checked the fuel pressure? And you're sure you're getting spark, etc. etc...
I have tried hitting the tank while the engine was cranking, also while the pump relay was jumped, the fuel shut off switch is set (on) and best of all I filled the tank before I put it away. I have also reached above the tank and wiggled all the wires and the wire connector on the frame. I am at a loss now, I'm guessing the pump is the only thing left. I tried to siphon the gas out but the hose only goes in about a foot and a half and then it stops? How do the fuel lines connect to the pump? do I need any special tools to disconnect or reconnect the fuel lines?
The only Ford I replaced the pump on was a Focus SVT. The pump worked when we went out for breakfest and didn't when we came out from breakfest. It had 5000 miles on it. So, they do go in a snap. It was not a tricky fix but I'd still recommend checking the pressure first. It could be the pump or the pressure regulator.
In either case you may want to pick up a Haynes manual. They have a pretty good section on checking pressure and replacing the pump. Ford uses two connector types: 1) a hairclip type and 2) a duckbill type. I've only taken the fuel system apart on my truck at the fuel rail and they were the duck bill type so, not sure how to remove the hairpin type. The duckbill requires a special tool available at most parts stores. The haynes recommends replacing both clip types if you've taken them apart. I've reused the duck type clips without any problems.
The precedure for removing the tank looks pretty straight forward but it's a little to long to put in here. I would think if you have the correct tools and some mechenical skill you could probably figure it out without a manual but...
i would also recommend using a voltage meter or current test light and see if you even have power going to the pump and hook a scanner to it to see if youre getting all your input signals (crankshaft sensor, etc) if one of these inputs is bad fuel wont be sent to cylinder to start and will just turn over
Last edited by ruffnready; 03-15-2006 at 07:02 PM.
Reason: forgot something
Grsyhands, I have not worked on it yet. I have been working on tractor implements for a buddy of mine which has a F150 that runs. He has been running for parts, I will be working on my truck next week for sure it is suppose to warm up. I will post what I find when/ if I get it fixed.
The truck now runs. I worked on it about two hours yesterday and two more today. It was the fuel pump, the cost for a motocraft fuel pump assembly is $200 from a parts store and $262 from Ford. The job was not as bad as I thought it would be, the first thing when the tank is full you can not siphon the gas out because of a grating/screen at the bottom of the metal filler neck. For bolts there are six on the skid plate and only two for the tank straps as far as connections there is a wire connector on the frame for the fuel pump and sending unit, there is also a electical connector at the top back of the tank, there are two vent lines with squeeze clamps on top, and the filler hose along with another vent line secured with screw type hose clamps. There is enough slack in the wires and hoses to drop the tank at least 6" after you remove the filler hose and vent line. This allows easy access to the rest of the wires and hoses. If you plan on a job like this get the special tool to disconnect the fuel lines as Ford uses push on fittings with four tabs to lock the hose to the steel lines from the fuel pump along with a lock clip on each hose, I didn't have this tool and I used four little pocket screwdrivers, not easy to do, I will be buying the set of disconnect tools. I did this job in around four hours by myself but I used a hydraulic motorcycle lift to hold and lower the tank, I could not have done it without the jack which by the way fit right between the tank straps and balanced a full tank with no problem. This was a 4X4 truck so I was able to sit upright under the truck to work on it which also made it easier. I just wanted to let everyone what was involved incase you ever have to do this job. And thanks to this web-site I have learned alot about these trucks.
Thanks for the feedback Harley. Just as A side I thought I'd share a little...
The one I did on the Focus was on a Pro-rally car which was easy since it had no interior and we could get at it from inside the car. Can't say as much for the rental Focus we borrowed the replacement from The members from our team that took it out just let it drop after taking the filler hose off. Snapped all the wire connections. Took 4 of us 2-1/2 hours to get it back in after our rally. No cycle jack, just hands to hold it up. Also a full tank. Glad it was only 12 or so gallons.
BTW: How many miles were on your old pump? Just curious.
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