I hoping to find a little help, I got a 65 falcon with the I6 200 CID in it. My problem is this:

I was burning about a quart of oil every 500 miles, so I did a little checking to see if I could pin point the problem. I checked compression on all the cyilinders and they were all around 160 PSI or within the 10%. So I figured I had some bad valve seals, so I to the head to a machine shop to to a valve job and all that stuff.... Got it back, put it on the block torqued the head down put the rocker shaft on, cranked it and she lit off the 2nd crank, and then died. All that was lastnight, so this morning I went out and did another compression check it's got 100 PSI in the front 5 cyilenders and 200 PSI in the back.... Whats that all about. I torqued the head to the spec 78 lbs. I thought it might be a valve sticking open/ needing adjustment, so I took the rocker shaft off the head and did another compression check on the #1 cyilnender and it only had 50 PSI.... Is this a head gasket problem? I think I made a no no, and I used a little gasket dressing on it, to keep it from sliding all over the place when I put the head on the block. Could that gasket dressing really make me lose 60 PSI in 5 of the 6 , and gain 100 PSI in the 6th....
I haven't done anything like this before, so please forgive my lack of understanding.

 

You say gasket dressing, spell that out for us, exactly what did you use? .

 

You will have no compression if the valves can't open and close to fill the
cylinders. I think what may have happened is the lifters bleed down and
were not opening the valves all the way. Put it back together and try and start
it again. If it doesn't start choke it by hand and see if you get gas on your hand.
Then lets go on from there.

 

With out the rockers on the valves should be closed completely.

Could be bad gasket, could be bad grind on valves. Squirt a little oil in the cyl when doing the comp check. See what happens then. Other than your gage getting a little oily.

 

The dressing I was refering to is some kind of blue something, it's not like RTV or anything. Its intended use I think is to hold the gasket to a surface while you attach mating parts.
With out the rockers pushing on the valves I won't have compression???

 

How will the cylinders fill if the intake valve doesn't open, take my word for it you
won't have compession.

 

A compression reading with the rocker shaft removed will be meaningless because the valves are not operating.

Your gasket dressing is probably unnecessary but it is not the cause of your readings.

 

You Sir are Correct! Thank you for the clarification.

 

Thanks for all the help guys.... I don't know that I am smart enough to figure this out to get it back running.... Maybe after they decked the head, the block might be a little warped still, and ............. I'm retarted!!

Thanks again guys

 

You will never know if you don't try! Put the rockers back and give it
a shot. It started once it will again. I have faith in you, and I know the
block isn't warped. Let us know what happens and we will help you!

 

Do you have adjustable rockers arm? Are you familiar with the procedure to adjust the valve clearance?

How much did they take off when resurfacing?

 

The rockers are adjustable....I have no idea how to adjust them... I got the spec for the valve lash... .085-.123 Just so I understand right, the lash is the clearance bewteen the top of the valve stem and the rocker arm? I took the head off again last night just to make sure I didn't bend a valve or something like that, so I got a new felpro head gasket and was getting ready to put the head back on and I wanted to make sure I was doing right. I lined up the timing marks on the crank pulley with TDC of #1 cyilinder. ??? Sorry for making this thing so long!

 

Resurfacing took off like .005 thousands I think

 

OK. .005" is not much so that is not going to be a problem.

So you put the head back on, torque to specs in the proper order, put the pushrods back in place and reinstall the rocker assembly and torque it down. Leave the plugs out. Then to adjust the valve clearance put the crank at TDC and look at the rotor. If it is pointing at #1, adjust the valves on that cylinder. Then rotate the crank until #5 piston comes to the top and adjust that one. Continue through the firing order, adjusting each one in turn. All you have to do to adjust them is to use the feeler gauge between the top of the valve stem and the rocker. As you make the adjustment you should 'feel' just a slight drag on the feeler gauge as you withdraw it after the locking nut is retightened. This will be close enough for you to get it started. You will have to go through this proceedure again after you warm up the engine. After you have driven the car for a hundred to two hundred miles, you will need to retorque the head and again re-adjust the valve clearances.

Don't even worry about taking compression readings until then unless you have a problem.

Keep posting.

 

What type of head gasket did you use?
Modern composite gaskets do not require any sealer or retorque.
The old metal type we use to paint with copper or aluminum paint and retorque after 100 miles.
If the valve adjust doesn't work try airing each clylinder up and see where the compression is leaking out. If it's in the pan it's bad rings. In the intake or exhaust manifolds bad valves. To the exterior of the motor or into the water jacket bad seal on head gasket.

Pat