Help?? Hi Folks, My 93 Ranger Slave Cylinder leaked and I was losing clutch pedal so I decided to replace it. I installed new clutch, pressure plate, slave, and a master cyl. which I probably did not need.

Making a long story short, here's where I'am. After bleeding master cyl. by removing C clip and letting fluid escape, then bleeding at the slave, still not happy with the pedal, puchased a K&d bleeding kit which appears to have a check valve but does not fit tightly on the bleeder screw, so I elected to make a mess. I had my brother depress the cluth to the point of resistance then loosen and immediately tighten bleeder screw after clutch was fully depressed. Should you bleed with clutch pedal fully depressed before opening bleed screw? If clutch is bleed/operating correctly how much pedal is wasted at the top of the throw?? Mine is about 2-3 in. If I need to by a complete bleeder kit or pump, can you recommend one and where to purchase.

Second problem, I could not loosen the threaded stud that holds the shift lever on, I removed a flanged nut, but could not remove the stud. Tried locking two nuts together but still no luck...so I removed the three strange looking screws on the top plate of the trany and removed shifter handle and fork while in neutral. Upon reassemble everything went well, or so I thought. Now it seems that the trany shift lever is in neutral BUT THE TRANY IS IN GEAR AND NO GEAR CAN BE FOUND USING THE SHIFT LEVER. I have enough clutch to confirm this. The truck is still on stands. What a mess, can anyone please help???

 

it sounds like you have air in your master cylinder. disconnect the clutch pedal from the master cylinder then go under the hood and twist it, it should slide out of firewall.
once removed with lines still attached point the rod that connects to the pedal downward so the air can come out, you should see bubbles it the fluid cup then reinstall. that was the only way i could get my clutch blead properly.

now on to the shifter problem. you may have accidently shifted it into gear when removing shifter i know because i did. take a screw driver and you should be able to shift it into neutral and reinstall shifter and check to see if it right.

note: get the clutch blead first so you can push the clutch in before tring to shift to neutral with screw driver.

hope this helps it did for me so good luck.

 

Upon reading slacker4.0 response, and being warm and well rested I went to my brothers garage to look at the trany. Same, no good result, however I entered the vehicle from the passanger side to get a better look and noticed on the driverside of the trans that the fork arm was not in alignment. Clicked it forward with a large dull screwdriver, being careful not to scratch anything, and CLICK my trany was in neutral. I put the shift lever on and it went into all gears easily with and without the clutch. So so so HAPPY!!! MANY THANKS TO SLCKER4.0 AND THIS FORUM.

I also measured how far the clutch pedal depressed before resistance, about three inches. Is this normal, or am I still battling air. Truck still on stands, cannot road test yet??Any help from someone with bleeder advice would be appreciated, especially order of procedure, do I need bleeder pump or other special equipment? Upon loosening/removing the master cylinder from firewall to change the angle to clip end down, do I have to pump it?? After removing air from master cylinder do I bleed at slave(with or without padal fully depressed)
Thanks again for the help!!! Love this site

 

glad i could help. i was in your same shoes a while back. yes try to pump the master cylinder by hand to get the air out of the m/c. make sure the bleeder is closes when you do this or you will just push fluid out and air in. it sounds like the air is out of the line considering how much you have already bleed it. so just try the m/c trick and see if it helps.

 

To slacker4.0 or anyone, How about the 3in. from top of clutch pedal to resistance felt by hand not by foot, but might be the same. Thanks again, Gene PS>>>>>3in.,2in., 1in., or perhaps none????? I realize I still need a road test, but easier to work on bleeding while on jacks

 

you should have some play in the pedal at the top. the clutch should start to inguage just as you start to let out on the pedal. if the clutch starts to inguage near the top of the pedal and your setting on an hill it make it a pain to get going before you start rolling backwards. you really need to test drive it to see where it's at.

good luck i hope i have been of some help i usually don't post much but i've been through exactly what your going through and it seem to work for me.

 

the pedal should be close to the top. three inches of slack is too much.

to bleed the clutch:

*with the bleeder valve closed, depress the clutch pedal to the floor
*slip you foot off the pedal and let the pedal fly back to the top. (don't be gentle here as this is an important step)
*do this several times.
*then depress the pedal to the floor, hold it there, and have a helper open the bleeder *valve on the slave.
*allow the fluid to run out.
*when the fluid stops flowing from the valve, shut the valve and release the pedal. Repeat as needed.

BE SURE TO KEEP THE RESERVOIR FULL.
when i bled my clutch, i operated the bleeder valve, my mom operated the clutch pedal, and my dad kept an eye on the reservoir. my dad watched as all the air came out through the reservoir. so try to get a third person to help if you can.

 

Hey conquistador do you just happen to know about how much clutch fluid it takes all together to keep the reservoir full?

 

the reservoir is very small. a few ounces I suppose. are you wanting to know how much is used during the bleeding process?

 

Yeah that I guess woulda been the better question. I know the reservoir is tiny, but I wanna make sure I have enough on hand, just in case.

 

I just bought two 32 oz bottles but used one. you can always take back the unopened bottles.

 

Ok cool, thanks, good to know.