I plan on starting the “In tank and Pre-Pump” mods next weekend. (I just filled up the tank) So I want to solicit all of you in a timely manor for any Tricks or BKM’s (Best Known Method’s) for installing this up grade. I purchased my kit from Diesel Manor, I also purchased their System 1 fuel filter as my inline pre filter. Everything in the kit seems to be of high quality and the directions complete, I have included the fuel filter specs for review. Please provide feed back on the Install, Diesel Manors kit and if any of you have use it, also did I make a good choice for an inline fuel filter?? Thanks, Jeff in NM…OUT

•Billet aluminum construction
•Red anodized finish
•75 Micron S.S. reusable mesh filter element (30 micron also available).
•3/8" barbed ends.
•Bench tested flow rate of 1440GPH with the 30 micron element (75 micron has significantly higher flow rate).
•2" O.D. x 6" long.

 

that filter is good. i was going to get one, but i couldn't fork over $100 on one.


for the mods, i got the tank as low as possible, which was 5-8 gallons left in mine. i am young and agile and i could lower the tank with my legs and stomach. for the front, i used a shop jack and i used a transmission jack on the rear side to hold it up, which was just used because it covered alot of surface area. DO NOT support the tank at it's lowest point. (in the center) because that is where the pickup naturally will be, and you dont want to smush it. i put my waist under the rear half of the tank (because all the weight was there) and i lowered the jacks to the point where i could support the tank with my body. not necesarily safe, but i did it. then scooch out from under the tank, and tilt the tank around and slide it off of you.

this was made alot easier by lifting the rear of the truck (i did it by the frame, i had an air lift and stuck it under the receiver) and then put two jackstands under the axle and lower the lift. i lifted the rear wheels about 6'' off the ground. made it easier, so i could sit up under the truck and unhook the connections on the top of the tank. just take your time and DO NOT drop the tank down on the lowest point. DieselManor has good instructions.

 

I don't know if you plan on harpooning the tank while you're in there, but I highly reccomend it if you have the tank down. That's one of the few mods that I guarantee you will notice all the benefits from.

 

or you could have acouple friends help you slide the bed back far enough to get to what you need thats what I did.

 

Just run it as close to empty as you can. I think I had maybe a gallon or two left in mine when it did it. And take your time lowering the tank. Be sure to unhook all of the connections before you drop it all the way down. There were 2 vent hoses that I didn't know about on mine, one at the front and one at the back. They just slide right off, no clamps or anything. Before you take the ring that holds the pickup to the tank, make a common mark on it and on the tank (I used a silver marker) so you'll know how far to tighten it back down. When you get the ring off, set it in the sun and put the tank in the shade. This will make re-installing it easier. If you don't have sunshine available, you can soak the ring in some really hot water for a few minutes too. That ring gave me some trouble trying to reinstall it, but with some patience I was able to get it. One more thing, when you go to put the tank back in the truck, put some rags in the filler and vent tubes that connect to the fuel filler neck so that you don't get any dirt or crud in them trying to pass them over the frame. Oh, and the harpoon mod is also highly reccomended by me too.

 

Thanks everyone for the input and the lessons you've learned form working on your own vehicles. Also, many thanks for reminding me about harpooning the tank, I forgot all about removing that little gem. If you think of another trick or two please send them off…. Thanks again, Jeff in NM…OUT

 

I completed the “In tank and Pre-Pump” modifications this weekend, 3/11. I started at 1015 and finished, including test drive and cleanup, by 1500. To date I have run the truck about 50 miles or so without noticing a drastic reduction in noise. If memory serves, I need to run a full tank of fuel to eliminate the residual air within the system. For those of you who have completed this modification, how long before you noticed a reduction in noise?? Thanks again for everyone’s help… Jeff in NM…OUT

 

I am going to do the fuel line mod, eliminating the quick disconnects and the tank mod. But in researching on the net, ran across a outfit in Pasco, Wa, Diesel Power Products who has come up with a different idea on the "tank mod". He says, in an e-mail to me, you can accomplish the same effect without dropping the tank .. Quote, "by running the return line into the "filler" vent line by adding a "T" fitting and along with plugging the existing vent line that goes to the tank.." unquote. Does this method sound like it might work..

 

It took me about half to a full tank to notice the difference. You introduced a lot of air into the system when you did the mods, but you unfortunately can't get around that. It will take some time to get rid of that air.

 

I don't think this will do any good. The point of the pre-pump mods is to get rid of the air that's being brought into the fuel by the quick disconnects that are pre pump. If you run the return line to the filler vent, it may stop some fuel from foaming in the mixing chamber, but it doesn't at all address the air coming into the quick connects. I had to drop my tank to get to the quick connect on the top of the tank. No way I could reach it otherwise. Dropping the tank's not that tough.

 

Ok.. I forgot about getting to the top of the tank for the disconnect.. but I guess what he is saying is you don't have to go inside the tank for the pickup mod.. So a guy still has to drop the tank, afew inches, to get at the disconnect..It sounds to me like it might work.

 

Well, his method gets rid of the idea that fuel is getting foamy in the mixing chamber since fuel will no longer be returned to the tank through it. However, you still have the problem of air being pulled into the lines through the duckbill valve once the tank gets down to about 1/4 full.

I don't know. It might work, but I'd shy away from it. I mean, if you've got to drop the tank a few inches anyway, it's not that much more work to take it completely out. To drop my tank just a few inches so I could get to the quick connects, the skid plate had to come off, I had to unhook the fill and vent lines at the filler neck, and I had to unhook two vent lines at the front and back of the tank. Once you're that far, then you've got your fuel lines disconnected, dropping the tank is a matter of lowering your jack. With the tank off, the in-tank mods are a walk in the park.

 

Lowering the tank is awkward as Hell, I did it myself… However, the toughest part of the mod for me was getting that G.D. Black tamk ring to not cross thread That stinking thing would not go on straight and kicked my butt for 2 hrs. I even tried soaking it in boiling water for 20 minuets or so, I worked me like a Hooker at a Shriner convention. Jeff in NM…OUT

 

When you "Harpoon" the tank, as I understand it, you are cutting off the vent as close to the body of the tank as possible so it breathes better for filling, right? So, what is to stop dust and sand from finding it's way into that vent hole that is flush with the tank body?

 

You're cutting the tube that's on the inside of the tank. In stock configuration, it extends 5"-6" into the tank. Harpooning cuts that inside length to about 1" of tube extending into the tank. The vent tube on the outside is still connected to the filler neck and to the top of the tank, so nothing there changes. It's just the inside of the tank that you're modifying. There is no way for debris to get into the inside of the tank from doing the harpoon mod.