Auto to Manual Hubs - COMPLETE
#47
#48
Howdy and Happy Holidays
Great write-up on the conversion.
I have a quick question, did you need the conversion kit as well. I talked to Summit and they say I need an auto to manual conversion kit for $60 extra, but I did not see that in your write-up.
I have a 2001 and the right side just crapped out and I need to get fixed asap as I am going back into snow country this Friday.
Thank and Happy Holidays,
Dean
Great write-up on the conversion.
I have a quick question, did you need the conversion kit as well. I talked to Summit and they say I need an auto to manual conversion kit for $60 extra, but I did not see that in your write-up.
I have a 2001 and the right side just crapped out and I need to get fixed asap as I am going back into snow country this Friday.
Thank and Happy Holidays,
Dean
#50
Originally Posted by Arrowman400
As far as I know you do not need it. I did not need it for my Warn Hubs
I am glad to be rid of the OEM junk.
#51
Did you plug off your vaccum line? After installing the manual hubs, and if you had a leak in the auto hub axle seal, you will need to plug the vaccum lines going to the axle. If you do not plug the vaccum line, your air conditioning will default to the defrost vent, when 4 X 4 is engaged.
I read back on the forum after sending this, and I see that the vaccum hub line pulgging was mentioned before....
I read back on the forum after sending this, and I see that the vaccum hub line pulgging was mentioned before....
Last edited by Packrat Super duty; 12-27-2007 at 09:56 PM.
#52
#54
Originally Posted by krewat
Storm if you remove your stock hubs, can you disassemble one and take pictures? I'd love to see if they are as wimpy as the ESOF ones...
I pick up my MileMarkers tomorrow.. $140 bux from Autozone..
Thanks to the OP who posted this.. I was almost going to buy the Warn Premium but couldn't stand that "Yellow" ****.. I wanted something strong to withstand the elements (SS).. Milemarker did that!
OH BTW.. OP, you know your caps are upside down? LOL.. Your "Free" is upside down... Shouldn't it go the other way? LOL
#56
#58
OK...I skipped from page 1 to page 4 so don't slap me too hard if this was already mentioned....I read through the write up...and one thing that kind of puzzled me.... light coat of grease... I have had issues before with even a light coat of grease, as time goes on, tends to get a little thick and the hubs don't disengage as easily cause the old grease tends to hold them in place. I have always just dipped the hub body completely in tranny fluid then slid them on. I haven't had any issues to date by doing this...am I the only one doing this or am I looking at a long term issue down the road?
#59
BillyBob, Warn even says in there instructions to NOT grease the hubs with anything, they are already coated in something.
Looks like cam break-in lube - very metallic, not much viscosity, but clings to everything.
And not much of it, either.
I did, however, use boat trailer wheel bearing grease, the kind that doesn't mix with water and turn to soup. The blue stuff. Not a lot, just enough around the **** mechanism on the inside of the cover, and over the splines so I could get the thing off again when I wanted to. The splines on the axle, that is.
Looks like cam break-in lube - very metallic, not much viscosity, but clings to everything.
And not much of it, either.
I did, however, use boat trailer wheel bearing grease, the kind that doesn't mix with water and turn to soup. The blue stuff. Not a lot, just enough around the **** mechanism on the inside of the cover, and over the splines so I could get the thing off again when I wanted to. The splines on the axle, that is.
#60