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2004 - 2008 F150 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007 and 2008 Ford F150's with 5.4 V8, 4.6 V8 or 4.2 V6 engine
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  #1  
Old 02-28-2006, 01:11 PM
superrangerman2002 superrangerman2002 is offline
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How to replace your fuel filter on a 2004 and newer F150.

A quick how to on fuel filter changing for new F150s.

At any point, DO NOT FORCE anything, as it will result in big bucks. If you can't remove anything with gentle to moderate force, you are doing something wrong.

Getting started, Items you need:

Fram 8018 fuel filter or equivalent, $5.99 at Walmart.
5/16 Line compression removal tool, $2.50 or so for a plastic assorted set at your local parts shack.
Medium size flat blade screw driver
Small pick or jewelers flat blade screw driver
Some towels or rags
Rubber mallet and a wooden dowel (not totally necessary)

http://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gall...id=108173&.jpg

Removing pressure from the fuel system

Locate and remove the fuse cover on the passenger side kick panel, the fuel reset switch is located in front of it with a red rubber top as seen here.

Click the image to open in full size.

It is very important that you release the pressure other wise you will have a large volume of gas spraying out. There are two ways of doing this, Remove the fuse (which I don't recommend for the possibility of removing the wrong one and messing something up), or tripping the inertia fuel reset switch.

With the motor running and all accessories off use the end of a hammer handle placed on the middle of the switch, and then tap the metal end with a rubber mallet. If you are afraid of breaking the switch, remove the two bolts that fasten it to the wall and gently tap the switch against something hard.

It might take a few hits, but once the switch is disabled, the motor will run rough until it dies. Once the motor dies, crank it over a few times to make sure most of the fuel pressure is released.

With the pressure released, you can now work on the fuel filter.

Removing the fuel filter and reinstalling of new filter

Click the image to open in full size.

The filter is under the drivers side door, on the inside frame rail, near the rear of the transfer case. Make sure to note what direction the filter is oriented, flow points to the front of the truck.

Starting with the front end of the fuel filter, unhook and swing the metal retaining clip out of the way as shown, then slip the line removal tool on to the front end of the fuel filter as shown in the picture (the gray thing).

Using gentle pressure, compress the metal fitting towards the fuel filter, then slide the tool towards the front of the truck into the line fitting until firm. The line fitting should then slide right off of the old filter. Fuel will still spray out so beware! A old rag covering the line is a good idea to minimize spray. At this point you may want to unhook the line from the plastic c-clamp that holds this line.

Click the image to open in full size.

The rear line is a lot more delicate, and you must be GENTLE. As seen in the above photo, use a small pick and gently raise the center of this fitting, it doesn't need to go far. Next use the line tool in the same fashion as previously stated for the front end, and the fitting should come off with little effort.

Click the image to open in full size.

Now that both ends of the filter have been disconnected, take the flat blade screw driver and pry the old filter out of the clamps.

Now its time to install the new filter.

Simply remove any plastic pieces on the new filter and discard them. Next install the new filter in the clamps just like the old filter with the flow arrow pointed towards the from of the truck.

Next, connect the front steel line on to the filter, to do this simply compress the fitting onto the filter until it will not go on any further. Next rehook the retaining clip as it was before, if it goes on with out trouble, you should have the line hooked up correctly.

Finally hook up the rear line in a similar fashion. Once on the filter as far is it will go, press in the locking blue centerpiece.

Double check all of your connections, and hook up the fuel line clamp if you had unhooked it.

Restarting your truck

After you have checked all of your connections, reset the fuel pump inertia switch by pushing down on the red button until it clicks.

Next, turn on the ignition (don't start) and count to 10 and then turn off, repeat this three or four times. The fuel pump may make some sounds, but this is normal. Make sure to check the filter connections with the ignition on. If you have leaks, you need to check your connections.

After you have cycled the ignition a few times and don't have any leaks, go ahead and start the motor. It should start right up, but might run a bit rough until the air is worked out of the fuel system.

With the motor running, check the filter one more time for leaks.

Button up the fues panel, and you shoud be good to go!

Congrats, you just saved a whole bunch of money!
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Last edited by IB Tim; 09-04-2006 at 12:08 PM.
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  #2  
Old 02-28-2006, 01:19 PM
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is300wrx is300wrx is offline
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at what milege do we need to replace fuel filters???
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Old 02-28-2006, 01:20 PM
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this should become a sticky.....poss the mods should create a section on HOW-TOs and put this on there. Very detailed directions. Nice work
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Old 02-28-2006, 01:22 PM
superrangerman2002 superrangerman2002 is offline
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My filter has 25000 miles and looks like this.

Click the image to open in full size.

That was a clean rag.

I always change my fuel filters right around every 25000 miles.

I believe that Ford says something like 30000 miles, but I don't know for sure.

With the quality of gas coming out of the pumps due to last years hurricanes, it's any bodys guess as to what you are really getting.

Fuel filters are one of the most neglected fitlers, and often are directly related to poor mpg.

My total cost was right around $6.00 and it took me longer to type up the article than it did to actually change the filter.

Pretty cheap mod to keep the mpg's up if you ask me.
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Last edited by superrangerman2002; 02-28-2006 at 01:34 PM.
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Old 02-28-2006, 01:26 PM
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is300wrx is300wrx is offline
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geez, well thanks for the heas up. I only have 5000 miles and def will change it out when it comes time...i NEVER changed fuel filters in my other cars and on one of my cars has over 110,000 miles on it....and my brother car has about 80,000....i guess its time to change them
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  #6  
Old 02-28-2006, 02:36 PM
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Great write up superrangerman2002!
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Old 02-28-2006, 03:40 PM
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Well done. Thank you.

CMOS
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Old 02-28-2006, 04:09 PM
superrangerman2002 superrangerman2002 is offline
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I never knew I had it in me.



Thanks for the praise, really no biggie. Just thought that it could be a usefull tool.
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Old 02-28-2006, 04:45 PM
05 Screw 05 Screw is offline
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Question for ya Superrangerman

I had a '98 F-150 and when I changed that fuel filter I would just let the truck sit for about an hour or two and then remove the fuel filter. Didn't have any fuel spit out at all, but always had an empty coffee can just in case. Will this same method work for my 05?
Thanks
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Old 02-28-2006, 05:09 PM
superrangerman2002 superrangerman2002 is offline
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Doubt it.

I tried it once on a Tempo, and all I ended up with was a pair of soaked coveralls and a garage that reaked of gas.

Any FI Ford that I've replaced a fuel filter on required me to use the inertia stop switch method or I'd have a huge mess.

Kinda sounds like the fuel pump may have been getting weak on that truck, or their was a small leak somewhere else.
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Old 02-28-2006, 05:39 PM
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patfogle DaPocky
The pressure should bleed down slowly over time. This is why the fuel pumps run for 2 seconds or so when you first turn the key, to pressurize the system.
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Old 02-28-2006, 05:49 PM
superrangerman2002 superrangerman2002 is offline
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Even if it does, there is still a considerable amount of pressure in the system. Even after killing the motor I still had enough pressure that required a rag over the fitting.
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Old 02-28-2006, 07:14 PM
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Really great post here, superrangerman!!

Didn't earlier 5.4's have a schraeder valve on the fuel rails to bleed off pressure??

Anyhow, I'm 2,000 miles away from doing this chore, and I REALLY appreciate the "tech article" and pics! Again...great job!!
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Old 03-01-2006, 06:33 AM
superrangerman2002 superrangerman2002 is offline
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Yes the earlier F150's 97-03 did have a schrader valve that you could bleed off the fuel pressure. I don't know for sure if there is even one on the new F150's or not.

Honestly, I've always felt that the intertial switch method was always cleaner, but if the new F150's have the same valve, you certainly could use that valve to bleed off extra pressure.
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Old 03-11-2006, 03:35 PM
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Thumbs up

Thank you superrangerman2002 for an outstanding post! It's very detailed and I consider it "newbie-proof." Glad I found this thread!

I have a '95 F150 that has a fuel leak and it's parked until I can fix it. The fuel filter isn't leaking but it looks old so I've purchased a new one and I'll change it when I figure out what the name of that part is that is leaking.

Today's mail brought the 2 volume Ford shop manuals for my truck but I haven't had a chance to read the fuel section yet. Yes, I'm a dork.
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Old 03-11-2006, 03:35 PM
 
 
 
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