I am getting a loud squeeking as I turn my wheels and when I go over a bump. Seems to be coming from ball joints, but cant tell if it is upper or lower. On my 2000 F150 I hear I have to replace the entire upper control arm. Is this true? What about the lower ball joints? Do I have to replace the entire lower control arm just to replace a squeeky ball joint? What do control arms cost? I tried searching this issue but could only find the sticky on the 4x4 changing procedure. I have a 2000 F150 with 7700 payload package. Is that called F150 LD\7700, seen that abreviation before?

 

I had the lower ball joints replaced on my 97 F-150 2wd about three years ago. It drove ok before I had them done but they were sure wore out...almost a quarter-inch of play. The uppers were fine.
Jack up the truck under the lower control arm and then grab the wheel top and bottom and see if it moves. It's best to have someone move the wheel while you look.
If you see any movement in the joint...replace them.

 

I just replaced (last weekend) all 4 ball joints on my '98 F-150 2WD with a 4.6. The instructions included above this forum for 4x4 ball joints as a 'sticky" post are helpful; just ignore the instructions about the front drive axles. Otherwise, it is about the same. I differ in that I put the vehicle weight on the lower control arm to make it easier to remove the knuckle from the lower ball joint, and easier to re-install the upper control arm on the knuckle.
I did all 4 in 2.5 hours, and that was with hand tools in my driveway.
Yes, you must replace the upper control arm; they were $75 each at Advance. VERY easy to change, just 2 bolts and the ball joint nut.

I would suggest you change the lower ball joints at the same time, since I found it easier to replace them with the steering knuckle off completely an dout of the way.

Here is how I would tell you to do it (I'll leave out the simple stuff like "loosen the lug nuts before jacking the truck" and "remove the cotter pin" and the like.)

With the wheel off,
Support the truck frame solidly under the cab with a jack stand.
Remove the caliper and the tie rod from the knuckle (don't tear the tie rod boot unless you plan on changing it too.) You must remove the caliper, you don't really have to remove the caliper mount, it actually makes it easier to handle the knuckle. It is heavy with the brake rotor on there.
Loosen the lower ball joint nut, don't remove it completely.
Loosen the upper ball joint nut, don't remove it completely.
Knock the upper ball joint loose from the knuckle.
Raise the lower control arm with the jack until the frame begins to move off the jackstand.
Knock the knuckle loose from the lower ball joint.
Remove the upper control arm with balljoint from the knuckle.
Remove the knuckle from the lower ball joint by lowering it.

Using a ball joint press, change the lower ball joint.
Remove the 2 bolts holding the upper control arm, and change it out. Don't tighten the bolts all the way yet (do this after the vehicle is on the ground.)

Install knuckle on the lower ball joint by lifting it onto place. (I put the original protective plastic cap on the knuckle over the hole and lifted it into place.)
Hold the knuckle in place, and thread the new nut on.
Insert the upper ball joint into the knuckle and torque it down.
Torque down the lower ball joint and the tie rod end.
Reassemble the rest of the compnents, and you are done!
Don't forget to torque down the upper control arm bolts when the vehicle is back on the ground in normal stance.

 

thanks banjopicker66 and others,

I take it that when I have the lower control arm on the jack with some tension on it, I can remove the upper control arm without the spring jumping out at me. I assume the weight of the truck on the jack will keep the spring in its place while I replace the upper arm, and while I press out the lower ball joint.
I have replaced ball joints on my old 69 cutlass and it sounds like this is the same principle, except that the entire upper arm must be replaced.

 

Essentially you are correct, and the shock should keep the spring from popping out.
I used the jack to take downward pressure off the lower ball joint and let gravity help knock it down off the ball joint stud. You will see what I mean when you take it apart.
Also, by jacking it up after re-installing the knuckle, it is easy to install the upper control arm without having to force it down, as in the description for the 4x4.