Hey All,

I have tried searching FTE forums for ignition and ignition switch, but never get any search results...

Anyway, I have diagnosed my problem to the ignition switch and the Haynes manual says take it to the dealer or a shop for service.

My question...

Can the ignition switch be relaced by an average DIY'er?

 

Welcome to FTE By ignition switch, do you mean the one with the key in it?

 

Hey thank for the quick reply...

No sir. Evidently, this is the switch between or mounted to the bearing carrier in the steering column.

 

Me too!!

Not to hyjack this fine fellow's topic, but my switch is shot to (replaced lock cylinder couple of years ago) I can move the key back and forth and shut off the heater then air bag light comes on followed by the check engine oil level. replaced lock cylinder and it helped but pretty sure the switch is shot or needs to be cleaned or something.

I just got used to centering the key when I run it. (funny do the same thing on my Yukon and '64 chevy c-10)
Later

Aaron

 

According to my trusted mechanic, he said the average DIY'er could do the ignition switch, but I elected to have him do it, anyway...it did take him a few hours, which would have meant with my limited ability it probably would have taken me days!!!

Mine went last year - and the previous owner replaced it about 4 years ago.

According to my mechanic, the replacement part now from Ford is better than it was a few years ago.

John

 

John,

Thanks for your input. I am going to tackle it tonight, so wish me luck. I will take notes and pictures and post back to the board...when I get it done.

Chad

 

Basically getting the old cylinder out is the pain in this project since in a working ignition cylinder the tumblars come down when the key is inserted then you simply push down a tool into the pin size release hole and pull the cylinder out.

In a failing cylinder not all the tublars fall (thats the reason why the key doesn't turn) when there is no key in the cylinder the tumblars are raised into holes above the cylinder and they must be forced down with a tool to remove the cylinder.

Personally I wasn't very coy about it on one of my older cars years ago I took a dent puller inserted the screw into the cylinder and pulled back the slide hammer a few times .

Since then I've been doing it the right way since they don't make cars like they used to.

Once the cylinder is out you would purchase the cylinder kit it will come with a selection of tumblars and springs simply pull the tumblars out of your old cylinder they will have an index number on them simply insert the new tumblars with the same index numbers in the same place on your new cylinder. That will allow your old key to match up with the new cylinder.

Like I said removing the old cylinder is really the tough part here.

 

Great info...however, unless I have to change the lock cylinder, I don't plan on it. There doesn't appear to be anything wrong with it. This is the switch down on the steering column. Thanks for replying...everything helps.

Chad

 

Straight from the horse's mouth:

Ranger/Aerostar

1. Disconnect battery negative cable.

2. Remove attaching screws (2) and instrument panel steering column cover.

3. Remove attaching screws (4) and instrument panel reinforcement plate.

4. If equipped with an automatic transmission, remove PRND12 indicator cable attaching screw.

5. Remove steering column to brake pedal support bracket attaching screws (2).

6. Lower column until steering wheel rests on driver's seat.

7. Remove ignition switch attaching screws.

8. Disconnect wiring and remove ignition switch.

Seems pretty easy in my opinion. The objective here is to get to step 6 so you can access the retaining screws on top. Also, you will need a set of Torx bit for all the screws there. But first and foremost, don't forget to disconnect the battery. And yes, take lots of pictures and post them here for us. That would be a great help for the next poor guy who has to do this.

 

Sorry about that for some reason whenever I see the word ignition I think either ignition system or cylinder .

I found the ignition switch at fordparts.com for $23.07 + shipping.

So its a pretty inexpensive job just a little labor intensive.

FYI the torx screws are the star shaped screws you'll need to pick up the sockets or bits at your local auto supply store. Their sizes are indexed by their T number for example T-20, T-15, etc.

 

Thank you all for the great info!

I didn't try the switch tonight...got to talkin' with some friends and went down a different path. There is absolutely no spark coming out of the coil. The is power coming into the coil just not going out. Tested resistance on primary coil terms...I get .7 ohms. The Haynes manual says it should be .3 - 1.0 ohms. So far so good.

Then, I checked the secondary coil resistance...and got a reading of 7.5 Kohms. Trusty Haynes manual says you need 8.0 - 11.5 Kohms and if the reading of the secondary resistance was less than 8, replace coil. So I did. Nothing! Did the same resistance check on the new coil and found that it read lower than the old one for secondary resistance.

Will check tomorrow to see if the coil I purchased was bad too. If not...will hunt further. I'm not convinced that the ignition switch would cause coil not to fire. But then again, I am just a backyard mech :-)