Ranger & B-SeriesAll Ford Ranger and Mazda B-Series modelsSPONSORED BY:
Welcome to Ford-Trucks Forums!
Welcome to Ford-Trucks.com.
You are currently viewing our forums as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join the Ford-Trucks Forums community today!
HI, i'm new here and i want to know how many times it can takes to change a clutch on a Ranger 1987 4 X 4 V6 2.9L. Some mech. man claim that it can take 8 hours??? Is it true or not. Anybody can tell me how much it took them??? Thanks a lot. Cause at that price i'm not sure i will do it...
I have the bill from when the dealership changed the clutch in my truck for the previous owner. It doesn't explicitly state the hours of labor, but if I divide the total charge for labor by the hourly rate, I get 4.5 hours.
My truck is a 2wd 4-cylinder. Being a 4x4 6-cylinder adds time ($) because the transfer case must come out, and part of the exhaust must be removed. Not long ago, an independent shop gave me a very rough estimate of $800 for a Ranger clutch.
I should also point out that if your truck needs a clutch, it isn't really something you want to put off. Eventually, it just won't go anymore, and you will have to have it towed. And condsidering the ratio of labor cost to parts cost, replace everything in there, so you don't have to drop the tranny again in a year to replace something else.
We are happy you have chosen the best source for Fords.
Enjoy FTE....and JOIN CLUB FTE -SUPPORT THE FORUMS!
…..See you on the boards.
tim.lamkin@internetbrands dot com
Life is not only time……paradoxically, it is the denial of time!
What lies behind us and what lies before us are tiny matters compared to what lies within us.
When you are down...look up...get up...and don't ever give up....
mines an 86 with a 3 inch body lift. I can tell you the lift saved me queit a bit of time not having to wrestle with the top two bolts on the trans. But I had it out in about an hour, its not that complicated if you have the right tools and maybe a buddy to help you do the lifting and such. I start with the two driveshafts and then the transfer case. shifter for the trans and tranfer case come out. plugs and lines and dont forget your hydralic cluth line on the top of the trans, its got a kind of carter pin that holds it in. starter as well. transmission crossmember unbolt and down she comes. Oh yea, you might want to drain both the trans and T case before you start pulling. Did I miss anything?
Thanks 67f100 those two upper bolts? ....Mmmmm I knew there would be some difficulty...
Guess I´l Have tostart looking if I can take the floor carpet off easylly so as to check if there is a bolted cover of some type that when off It would let you fiddle with these bolts... and the starter too..........
karslake you wont find any plates in the floor to remove to get to those top 2 bolts. To get them out you need a 2'-0" or longer extension and a universal for your socket and you get to them from underneath the truck. It helps if you have a friend guide your socket to the bolt from the top.
I took mine to a shop because I have never messed with a hydraulic clutch but I could change the one in my 1985 Mustang in about 3 hours if you dont include the time for the machine shop to resurface the flywheel. The shop I took it to charged me $285 for labor and I supplied the Zoom Kevlar clutch set which set me back $329.13 from Summit racing. Total cost of $615.13. Not bad and I had the truck back the next day.
2004 FX4 Level II Bama, Centerforce DF, 33x10.50 BFG KM2s, Reflex, Flowmaster
2000 F350 CC DRW 4x4 Lariat PSD, SCT, K&N
2001 F350 CC SRW 4x2 XLT PSD
1988 Lincoln Town Car Cartier
1997 F350 PSD 4x4 5spd (sold)
Some US $ 700 for a clutch change is not bad provided you got your truck next day and provided you had the money.... It makes me remember my last clutch change on my Daewo racer... it cost me 15 bucks labor and around 50 bucks for the preasure plate and the clutch it self both brand new spares. In these cars it is not necesarry to do away with the tranny but simply access de lot from underneath asnd you pull the main axle from the side to allow the discs come down. US $ 15 bucks for labour no kiddin.
Long are those days when you could reapair a clutch disc for 10 bucks. I repaired my clutch system on my for Taunus mod 1960 by re rivering some antifriction pads in matter of minutes.... The clutch worked for me for more years I can remember. I have a Neighbor who owns a ford anglia mod 58 and bought it from new. I was surpriced when he explained to me that he has never ever chaged the clutch on his van. How he do it? A bit of a mistery to me... but I believe him. Seems he doesn´t use it much.
Welcome to FTE Dullbo, the 8 hour quote is pretty much standard in most shops sometimes it's less and ond ther times it'll take it all. What's the most time consuming on the V6 4x4's, is the "Y" exhaust pipe that runs across the bottom front of your transmission. It needs to be removed, which means you need to undo the bolts up at the exhaust manifold collector. You usually have to heat the bolts to get them undone, and often break the bolts which then means you drill out and tap for a new bolt.... etc..... Very time consuming. And like someone mentioned earlier the two top tranny bolts aren't the easiest to get to.
You will need to:
1. Remove the full exhaust system all the way to exhaust manifolds.
2. Remove the front and rear Driveshafts.
3. Remove the Spedometer cable in the Transfer Case, remove the TC shifter linkage(s).
4. Remove the Transfer Case.
5. Place a jack under the Tranny, unbolt the two bolts through Tranny mount to the Tranny, And then remove the Tranny Cross Member.
>>>>> Do you have an internal or external Slave Cylinder?????
6. If you have an internal you will need to buy a special tool to remove the Hydraulic line from cylinder. If you have an external, you maybe able to simply onbolt the Cylinder from the tranny side without touching the line (it's been a while since I played with an External Cylinder)
7. If you haven't allready removed the shifter, do so now. Also remove the reverse light switch wiring hooked in the side.
8. Remove the Tranny with a jack or tranny jack.
9. Clutch removal and change is fairly simple. Just unbolt and replace don't forget to inspect flyweel wear signs of blue discolouration, missing teeth on the ring gear. I would recommend having the flywheel turned on a lathe, And you should replace The Crank mainseal behind the Flywheel( they are prone to leaking) I also recommend changing everything clutch related hear as you will have noticed it won't be your funnest mechanical experience. Change Pilot Bearing, Throw out bearing, internal Slave cylinder ( if that's what you have) Clutch disk, and pressure plate. I also recommend using Ford parts if you are looking for durability it'll be worth the extra cash.
I have a '97 4 cyl 5 sp. I have everything removed but the shift lever. The manual I am using references a picture that I cannot find or does not exist so I am guessing the stud through the passanger side of the bottom of the shifter is what I need to remove to pull the shift lever off. Is that correct? Does anyone have a picture of that stud/bolt since mine is missing from my manual?
I cannot get that stud to come out as of yet. I have been using penetrating oil and a pair of nuts threaded on side by side since the stud does not have a head to it.
Thanks to anyone who can steer me in the right direction.
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.