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  #16  
Old 03-05-2006, 10:31 AM
GreenHornet79 GreenHornet79 is offline
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Thanks for the great post 00F1505.4. I will prob. be tackling this project in the next couple weeks. I have a broken stud that looks like it broke flush with the manifold. Ford wants over 400 to do one side. I thinks I'm gonna give this a whirl and put headers on while I have everything apart.
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  #17  
Old 03-05-2006, 12:10 PM
00F1505.4 00F1505.4 is offline
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GH79,,
I only did the passenger side, but looked both manifolds over pretty good. Honestly I was a little intimidated but after doing it, would not hesitate to do it again, either side...

but don't trust the weather man....lol
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  #18  
Old 03-05-2006, 02:55 PM
slc10844 slc10844 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 00F1505.4
Bought the studs (8) at the dealer for $1.62 each (no I am not kidding) for a package of 8. (Package of 8, part number N811313-S431) stud. The dealer originally said $5.20 each as I went in to get measurements/size and specs on the studs and I told them I only needed the specs as Napa was saying $1.75 per stud. So they sold them to me for $1.62 ea. (*Hey, not complaints from me).. The parts guy said they could not compete on the manifold gaskets so Napa was it. Exhaust manifold (set) $8.26, anti sieze $4.13.4
FYI Ford came out with TSB 05-5-4, dated 3/21/05, for the use of a stainless exhaust manifold studs and nuts on the 5.4, PNs W703902-S403 stud and W701706-S2 nut. Maybe the first quote was for the stainless version?
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  #19  
Old 03-06-2006, 06:54 AM
00F1505.4 00F1505.4 is offline
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Makes sense...

Quote:
Originally Posted by slc10844
FYI Ford came out with TSB 05-5-4, dated 3/21/05, for the use of a stainless exhaust manifold studs and nuts on the 5.4, PNs W703902-S403 stud and W701706-S2 nut. Maybe the first quote was for the stainless version?
slc10844, funny you should post that. When I went into the dealer, I specifically asked for stainless studs. Dealer said they did not carry, nor did Ford manufacture stainless. I did not inquire at Napa if they had stainless, just went for it......

If I need to replace again, or do the other side, I will definately look for them. Thanks for the info..
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  #20  
Old 03-06-2006, 11:06 AM
slc10844 slc10844 is offline
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You might want to call the dealer and throw those part numbers at them just to see what they say.
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  #21  
Old 03-06-2006, 03:05 PM
00F1505.4 00F1505.4 is offline
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Any of you Ford mechs out there want to help out here. Are the dealers putting stainless studs in now??

If so, mine is behind the times but would obviously be beneficial for the next guy who replaces manifold studs to know he can get them....
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  #22  
Old 03-06-2006, 03:15 PM
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The partsman probably didn't know what the studs are made of so he said that they weren't available. I find it hard to believe that any dealers would still have the old part number, non stainless, studs in stock but I guess it's possible.
Where I work we stock the latest studs and nuts.
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  #23  
Old 03-06-2006, 03:47 PM
00F1505.4 00F1505.4 is offline
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slc10844 and racer guy,
Thanks, as the studs I put in were not stainless. They looked, felt, color, texture exactly the same as originals....

but the upside is, job is complete, atleast for another couple of years. Again thanks for all of your help and slc, I wrote down that part number for when I need to do the driver side....
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  #24  
Old 03-06-2006, 10:55 PM
thadavvg thadavvg is offline
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Anybody know the specs on those studs. I have to do mine but would prefer to put in some stainless bolts instead.
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  #25  
Old 03-07-2006, 07:41 AM
00F1505.4 00F1505.4 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slc10844
FYI Ford came out with TSB 05-5-4, dated 3/21/05, for the use of a stainless exhaust manifold studs and nuts on the 5.4, PNs W703902-S403 stud and W701706-S2 nut. Maybe the first quote was for the stainless version?
Thadavvg,
SLC10844 quotes tha part number....
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  #26  
Old 03-15-2006, 10:08 AM
thadavvg thadavvg is offline
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alright guys, need some advice. I have the manifold loose with only two studs broken off and there is plenty of room to grip them. What is the best way to get them out. I see that some people use vice grips but I've tried that and they won't move. Is it ok to heat them or will that even help? Also, any tricks to getting the studs loose that hold the pipe to the manifold. I've soaked them in pb blaster multiple times and I even put the impact wrench on them and they won't loosen. If all else fails I can cut them and then drill them out but I'd rather not have to do that.
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  #27  
Old 03-15-2006, 10:20 AM
slc10844 slc10844 is offline
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I use heat on the stubbon ones. I also try to break it loose by tightening first then loosen. Someone that works on outboard motors once told me to heat it first then shock it with cold water.
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  #28  
Old 03-15-2006, 03:27 PM
00F1505.4 00F1505.4 is offline
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I used PB blaster over several days and a breaker bar on the pipe/manifold studs..took some a$$ to break them free but they gave....

Used a stud remover on the two broken manifold studs since the manifold was already off....
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  #29  
Old 03-17-2006, 08:55 PM
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Yea, a stud remover. The full name is cam action stud remover. It worked real well on my 460. Alot of exhaust shops will heat the pipe nuts/bolts cherry red then undo them. I just cut mine off instead. Dont run the truck with an exhaust leak cause it will erode the flange of the head and then it wont seal for you. I put Banks headers on mine. Spendy but permanent. I got an extra long breaker bar from Snap-On which was like heaven to use and one of their extra long box wrenches for those real hard to reach ones. Ive already decided if those heads ever have to come off thats it Im sellin it. Warping exhaust manifolds have been a problem for years. You'd think Ford might try and correct that but the V10's and alot of other engines are doin it too. Maybe it's that the average bill to get manifolds replaced/broken studs etc at the dealer is $1700 bucks so that helps them meet payroll I suppose.
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Last edited by T18skyguy; 03-17-2006 at 09:04 PM.
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  #30  
Old 03-27-2006, 11:47 AM
thadavvg thadavvg is offline
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alright, it seems that I'm evening out the odds for all the people who's studs came out real easy. The rear two studs on the passennger side will not come out. The kicker is that isn't even where it was leaking to start with, the from stud had broken off originally but that came out with the stud remover.

And just to be straight that I have the right tool, the stud remover I have is nothing but at socket with some cams in it that supposedly bites down on the the stud as you loosen.

Do you guys have any more ideas about how to get then out. The stud remover will not bite on these studs, I guess the threads are just too degraded. I do not have the expertise or tools to weld on a nut and loosen it that way and I have already tried to tighten two nuts against each other and was only successful in stripping the threads off the stud. I haven't tried heating the stud till its red hot yet, don't even know if my torch is hot enought to do that.

If all else fails, do you guys think it will hurt anything to drive about 10 miles with the manifold off over to the shop that I trust.

Any help is greatly appeciated. The ball joints were a breeze compared to this.
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Old 03-27-2006, 11:47 AM
 
 
 
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