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  #1  
Old 02-05-2006, 04:22 PM
tmehrkam tmehrkam is offline
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Plug change with photos

I finished my first plug change on a modular engine. The job is simplier than it was on the older trucks. The biggest differance is that an air compresser and torque wrench is an absolute necessity.

I spent less than five hours total. I did not have to crawl inside the engine compartment.

I removed one plug at a time and changed it. I started with plug one and changed them in sequance 1 through 10. The only thing that I had to remove was the Plumbing between the throttle plate and the air filter. I also unplugged the PCV valve and moved the hose out of the way.

The following image shows the tools required for the job.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gall...id=105307&.jpg

I checked the plug gaps before starting the job. All were in spec and none had to be adjusted.

I labled each spark plug box 1 through 10 and stored the old plug in the approperate box after it was removed. I always do this as it allows me to keep track of the condition of each cylinder.

This is the sequance that I used to complete the job.
  1. Blow out the dirt arround the COP.
  2. Remove the 7mm screw holding the COP.
  3. Pull up and remove the COP.
  4. Press the tab and unplug the COP.
  5. Blow out the spark plug hole.
  6. Inspect the plug using a mirror.
  7. Blow out again if necessary.
  8. Loosen the plug using the spark plug socket and rachet.
  9. Blow out again.
  10. Inspect again.
  11. Unscrew and remove plug
  12. Lightly coat the plug threads with anti-seize.
  13. Put the new plug in the spark plug socket.
  14. Carefully start the plug. Make sure it is not cross threaded.
  15. Torque the plug to 132 in lb.
  16. Pull the spark plug boot off the COP.
  17. Put ignition grease on the inner surface of both ends of the new boot and iinstall the boot on the COP.
  18. Seat the boot and COP on top of the new plug.
  19. Put anti-seize on the COP screw.
  20. Secure the COP with the screw.
  21. Repeat 10 times.

This is a photo of the plug and boot.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gall...id=105309&.jpg

A photo of the Anti-Seize and Ignition Grease used.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gall...id=105308&.jpg

A photo of the home made blow out tool.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gall...id=105310&.jpg

A photo showing the condition of the plugs after 106,000 miles.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gall...id=105317&.jpg

I did not even have to cuss or throw wrenches over the fence. All and all a easy job.

Last edited by BigF350; 06-12-2006 at 01:30 AM.
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  #2  
Old 02-05-2006, 04:45 PM
syd724 syd724 is offline
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The plugs look almost good as new great pics. The lower left is that from number five
cyclinder my 1999 looked the same .
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  #3  
Old 02-05-2006, 04:57 PM
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Dude, YOUR GOOD! EVERYTHING by the book! Nice work!
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  #4  
Old 02-05-2006, 06:41 PM
tmehrkam tmehrkam is offline
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Lower left is plug number 1
Upper left is number 5
lower right is plug number 6
Upper right is plug number 10

Plug number 1 had rusty threads.
Plug number 9 obviously was under water at one time.

All the COP bolts on the right side had anti-sieze so I suspect that the P.O. flooded it out and had to pull the right side COP's to dry it out.

The left side COP's bolts did not have any anti sieze.

This truck had 80,000 miles when purchased. So far I have changed the U jounts and plugs. I also changed ANTI FREEZE.

THIS IS THE BEST TRUCK I HAVE EVER OWNED.

IT PERFORMS BETTER AND GETS BETTER GAS MILAGE THAN ANY OF THE PREVIOUS ONES STARTING BACK IN 1976.
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  #5  
Old 02-05-2006, 07:19 PM
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Nice job.....
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  #6  
Old 02-05-2006, 07:43 PM
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Excellant post you now can join club!
Someone said those plugs look good as new !!!!!! Take a look at the gap on those plugs and people wonder why fuel mileage is not what it should be.

Good Job!
Rich
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  #7  
Old 02-05-2006, 09:19 PM
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Nice job!

Looks just like when I did mine at 22K miles, 5 years after manufacture.
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Old 02-05-2006, 09:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krewat
Nice job!

Looks just like when I did mine at 22K miles, 5 years after manufacture.
See my gallery, by the way, for comparison.
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Old 02-05-2006, 11:10 PM
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Thumbs up Nice!

Good job! Really appreciate the "sharing"...with photos...as I have not yet done the spark plug change, but will be doing it in the next 10,000 miles. I'm actually already getting excited about it.

biz
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  #10  
Old 02-06-2006, 09:29 AM
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purerockracing Rich Schultz
what year motor is this from? How did your spark plug hole threads look?
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  #11  
Old 02-06-2006, 10:08 AM
tmehrkam tmehrkam is offline
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This is from a 2001.

No problems with the threads at all. The plugs had very little if any Aluminum on them.

All except one of the plug holes looked shiny new. Plug 9 is the one with the water markes on it. There was a rust stain in that hole but it was just surface rust from the plug. The new plugs are plated and should not have that problem.

I suspect that the vast Majority of these motors will never have problems with the plug holes.
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Old 02-06-2006, 01:44 PM
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On plug #1 (lower left in the pic) I see that there is rust the entire thread length - like it was loose and had contamination from the plug ... or... it was screwed into a helicoil. When you inspected the threads in the plug cavity, did you see any reason for the rust that far into the plug threads?
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Old 02-06-2006, 02:55 PM
tmehrkam tmehrkam is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Orn
On plug #1 (lower left in the pic) I see that there is rust the entire thread length - like it was loose and had contamination from the plug ... or... it was screwed into a helicoil. When you inspected the threads in the plug cavity, did you see any reason for the rust that far into the plug threads?
It was not loose.

The threads were fine. I removed that plug twice. The first time was before I purchased the new plugs. I just wanted to see what I was getting into.

I put it back in and replaced the plugs the next week. I inspected that one real good.

My guess is that it had a good carbon seal on the threads and did not get any fuel or oil to keep it from rusting. You can tell by the sealing surface that it was seated all the way arround.

The hole was clean and look just like new.
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Old 02-06-2006, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmehrkam
My guess is that it had a good carbon seal on the threads and did not get any fuel or oil to keep it from rusting. You can tell by the sealing surface that it was seated all the way arround.

The hole was clean and look just like new.
Yea - the seating surface looked good and that's what got me thinking.

Just curious is all.

Thanks.
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Old 02-06-2006, 04:35 PM
Wrenchtraveller Wrenchtraveller is offline
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tmehrkam, This is a great post and you did a great job with the pics. I will print a copy of these for my truck's log because I like how you detailed everything. I see from your Info, you are an engineer. I am a millwright and I work with engineers all the time so I can tell a good one, like you. Take care and thanks for a good post. Don.
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