Hi, (first time poster) and I am really hoping to get some thoughts from people that are far more knowledgeable about these motors than I.

I have 2000 E350 6.8 V10 (class III motor home chassis) with 24.5 k miles. Very lightly used. (obviously) and fairly well maintained. Always under cover and protected from the elements.

Vehicle Symptoms: (Upon recent fire up from sitting for a few months)

· Rougher idle than usual but not too rough.
· Little to no power when in gear and under load, I can barely get above 35mph.
· No OBD II DTC’s (hard or pending)

Fuel:
I started with the Fuel filter because of the long periods of non-use.
Added fuel injector cleaner. Put in a little fresh gas.

Fuel Pressure is 38psi static pressure at the rail with ignition on. 30 psi running at idle. Pressure seems to keep up with demand without hesitation when I increase RPM’s.
No affect to engine when I pull the connector to the injectors on the right bank. There is an immediate change to engine RPM when I pull ANY connector on the left side.

Voltage is present at the hot lead of the injector.

No obvious vacuum leaks found after extensive physical & visual inspection.

Primary electrical:

I have a good battery (always on a float charger when not in use). Alternator appears to be providing acceptable power based on the dash ammeter.

There is no affect to engine when I pull the COP for Cylinder 6, 8 ,9 or 10. (I haven’t been able to reach the # 7. (damn van chassis) The exhaust manifold gets warm (NOT hot) after a while so #7 may be firing)

I have pulled the #10 COP, plugged in a spare plug, grounded it and I get no spark from either the stock original COP or a brand new out of the box aftermarket COP.
The stock (original) COP boot looked brand new and still had a fresh bead of factory dielectric grease near the plug connection!

Voltage is present at the hot lead of the COP.

I have searched a lot on this forum and others for similar problems and found various solutions that often could be traced back to COP’s or ECM/PCM replacement
I am reluctant to buy into such an expensive “try and see” solution without something more to go on.
As I do not have a scope to see the ignition and (or injector) firing or the fancy Ford diagnostics hardware, next step is a shop that will work on a MH and hopefully not soak me. I just have to get there like a slug pulling a boat anchor.
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!

<NOTE: to moderator: please remove my identical post from incorrect forum>

 

Do you have good continuity in the spring from the #10 boot? Sounds silly but if that spring conducts the hot lead from the COP to the plug.

 

I have not. I guess because I tried two different (one new) CP's, I counld rule out a failure at the pack.

 

When you mentioned that you had voltage at the hot lead of the COP yet no spark got me thinking that there might be a disconnect between the COP and plug. Good luck. Hope you find the problem.

BTW, are you getting spark from the other cylinders doing the same test?

 

Besides the spark issue, check the hot lead to the injectors for voltage too...

Check for rodents eating ground wires too...

The computer (if I recall correctly) uses separate grounds for the right and left bank, so when it grounds the COP to get spark, it's really connecting the ground-side of the COP to a single ground for the right bank. In other words, check the grounds going to the computer.

 

It's unlikely an injector or COP fault, I'm buying the grounds going to the ecm they do use two different grounds for the quad drivers, to complete the ground circuits for the injector and the COP, take your test light put it on the positive side of the battery and check the ground side of the COP and the Injector, as the truck runs see if the test light flashes, if not, the ecm is not completing the circuit, check your grounds, wiring and your temp sensor, make sure the ecm doesnt think it's overheating and shutting fuel and spark off.